It has been said that you can pull the heads out with the headers still on, but that they are kind of heavy. I think I could manage it, but like you listed, it will probably end up costing me more if I do pull the heads. You used the tool that draggin makes on yours, right? How did it perform?

 

The tool itself worked flawless. Just make sure you roll up paper towels and put them in the oil drain holes in the heads incase you drop a keeper. If it were me and I were doing it again (which I might soon with some 6.1 heads) then i would have some extra keepers just in case. I didnt loose any of mine. I actually did drop one but I found it.

Ive got a set of extra retainers if you want a few but I dont think you will need them. If you drop one of those you can find it pretty easily.

 

Getting some extra keepers is a good idea. It would suck to lose one and not have a spare to finish the job with. Might have to call the dealer for them and see if they have any on hand.

 

Yeah because if you drop one and it goes down the head to the pan then its fishing time or drop the pan. I didnt drop one per se. Mine went flying as I had them both on the valve tip and was letting the spring and retainer back up and evidently it the keepers were not seated right on the stem and got binded with the retainer and POP!!! One went flying. Thankfully I seen where it went.

 

Most cam numbers are with LT headers as far as i am aware of. Just keep an eyeball out for anything along those lines.

ceramic coating wasn't originally made for salt or rust prevention. Ceramic was formulated to keep the under hood temps noticeably cooler as well as the skin temps down. This creates more HP when the skin temps are a few hundred degrees cooler because the gases can escape from the cylinder heads faster as well as cooler.

Little FYI...Local dyno shop had a vette that was putting down 600rwhp with a set of Stainless steel long tube headers. they were all polished up nice and had that nice color change to them. He said his underhood temps went up ~40 degrees compared to stock after they were installed.
He swapped them out with the exact same headers except the new one's were ceramic coated by Jethot both inside and out. His under hood temps dropped 60 degrees compared to the uncoated one's. that means the new coated headers were 30degrees cooler than OEM headers. PLUS his dyno numbers jumped up a solid 8rwhp, just from ceramic coating.
end of story

Cearmic coating is costly, but the benefits far outweigh the cost IMO.

 

very nice Teach. I'm probably gonna be bitin the bullet on the krc 210 shortly. marty is real confident he can tune it no problems

 

sorry dog i should have been more clear.
i know the ceramic were put on to keep the engine bay cooler but i also know the stainless wouldnt hold up well in a east or west coast area. i think i can get the a tape kit that will hold the heat in for 80.00. i might make a phone call and see if i can get a roll free

 

Tape is way worse because you can get moisture trapped behind the wrapping and it will rot out even quicker than un protected headers would. What is the price difference? If its only a bill or a bit more its totally worth it.

 

Yeah, stay away from the wrap unless your a strip king. it's nothing like coating and it's a total PIA to wrap/install not to mention it's very itchy. i've wrapped a few headers in my day. Not fun at all.
Stainless T409 will create surface rust, but T304 should not. Your factory exhaust is made out of T409.

 

Not to mentionmost headers now come with a warning saying that adding tape voids the waranty if there is any to begin with.

Teach - Congrats on finally ordering the cam. As soon as my new card gets here I'll order mine (not a Credit card but one linked to my mod account, got tired of waiting for the transfers from one to one account to another).