What size bolts go through the headers and into the block? Size and thread count please. Would you use SS or Grade 5 or 8? Did you guys use anti-seize?

And whhat ear/tab on the trans has to be cut? I forget.

 

I can go out and grab one and figure it out if need be. Not exactly sure, but I'm sure i can measure one using my tap/die set as reference....lol

I used grade 5 bolts that cam with my JBA's. i can't remember if I used anti-sieze or not, but if you do...I would reccomend a very small amount. I also used my own lockwashers instead of just a flate style washer. Actually, one the one's with more room i used both. Not one has come loose yet even after the initial hot/cold cycle i put it through for checking looseness.

Although SS is nice, they are more brittle than mild steel. I would see if you can get grade 5 or 8<--overkil...lol But you can get black studs which are coated and also zinc coated studs. i used basic crap. I suppose we'll see how they hold up.

 

I have NO clue as to the bolt size, they are whatever came with the pacesetters. I did not use anti-seize and even though I was tempted to order the locking set from Moe's, I did not because Marty at KRC recommended I not use them, that vibrations that would normally just loosen the bolts over time would probably strip out the threads in the soft aluminum block. I have only had a couple of bolts require just a smidge of tightening when I check 'em at every 6k oil change.

I can't remember clipping a tranny flange, but you will have to open one of the bolt holes up a bit as it doesn't line up...

 

AIRRAM sells a set of lock grade 8 that used to be really cheap compared to others. But I can't remember what his prices are now. Its worth a look.

And when I was going to install my headers all I heard about was use the grade 8 locking. Because they are the best. Thats just what I had heard.

 

If there is no room to get both hands at the stud you are working on, then stage 8's are a complete PIA trust me. Nothing like putting a hex cut tear drop washer between your ring and middle fingers, and then a 3/4 moon shape snap-on washer in your middle and pointer finger on the same hand and then sticking your one arm into a place you can't see but only can feel. Now, the tear drop washer goes over the bolt head and needs to be held in place or it will fall off, while you align the tiny little snap washer along it's tiny groove. Pressing that thing on is pretty tough. I had to use a screw driver tip using the header tubes as a pivot point. PIA. rant end

Just went out and took a look Weed. I compared the bolts to M8-1.25x40mm one's and checked them with my die set. The length of the stock header bolt was 2-3/8" inside head to end (thread length). I imagine the cast headers to be 1/2" thick or even 5/8"?? so you'll need a slightly shorts bolt than that as your flange thickness is prob 3/8" topps. Prob 2" will do it. Mine were significantly short than stock.
The bolts that were given from JBA had are indeed grade 5's. I'm sure you'll pick-up grade-8's anways;-)

 

I ordered the stage 8's for mine sine mine did not come with the bolts, as of now I did not install the lockers but I will be pulling the heads when I do my cam so I may do them while they are off the truck. The trans tab is on the passenger side if it needs it. We put mine up and it was really really close so we ended up trimming it. Same with the wheel alignment tab, it was rubbing on the passenger side header too. Oh and the passenger side O2 had to be trimmed down so it would fit right... Alot of things on the passenger side didn't want to fit quite right... The drivers side went in and fit like a glove.

 

i just used the ones that came with the Pacesetters. they have worked great. Had my LT's on for 8 months with no leaking at all. Everytime i check them, they're still torqued. I did use a small amount of anti-seize just to ensure they would still come out in the long run.

I did a so-so DIY on this thats in the FAQ section. It shows what tab I had to trim (Passenger side)

 

Yeah, Im just getting in the house and a bit disgusted. I had checked the site that sells those locking bolts and they send out (17) 8mm-1.25mm x 25mm. So while I was out in town getting some other things I stopped my Lowes and picked up some Grade 8's.....LOL

I already have anti-seize here at the house anyway.

So I went to pull the corner bolts loose on the exh manifolds where the heat shields are at (I periodically soak them with pentrating oil because I knew this day was coming) and the lower rear nut on the drivers side snaps off. No big deal because it was the nut and the small part of the threads and not the main bolt itself.

Besides, Ive already got 2 sets of extractors just in case ;-)

So I go to the pass side and those corner nuts except for the top back one. Its just spins and spins and spins. So I got to pull on it with my fingers and it pull right out except that its very short and cleanly sheared off. Great.

So I go to pull all the rest out and they all come put fine. As I pull the manifolds off I try to turn the pass side bolt that it sheared off and it easily just spins out with my fingers!! Woo Hoo....

So Im thinking Im off to the exhaust shop on Monday. I should have been there two weeks ago but Ive been waiting on DMH pipes to come in from Dave at DMH for two weeks. They finally got here on Weds.

He asked what size I needed and I told him 2.5" because i was running duals but it didnt dawn on me until today that my 3" cutouts wont fit the 2.5" pipes. Great!!

So I called DMH and of course they are closed today.

So I know I can send them back but if anyone wants them for the 60 I paid for them please LMK. If not them I will RMA them and have 3" sent out. The bad thing is the truck will be completely down for a week. Great!!

 

what are the pipes for?

 

They are DMH cutout pipes AKA Flowtech pipes

This is a pic of one. I have two obviously but these are just the pipes and no electric cutouts. These would be considered manual cutouts. They come with the gaskets and blocking plates.

Like I said, if someone wants them, great. If not I will just be swapping them out for 3" anyway.

And in all honesty, my e-cutouts NEVER get closed so instead of having a potential of $360 tied in two DMH e-cutouts that you might leave open all the time and never close, you could do just the Flowtech pipes (pair) at $60. See what Im saying? But Ive already got my DMH valves so all I needed was my pipes for my new exhaust.