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Old Mar 18, 2010 | 02:56 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by lxman1
Might want to monitor fuel pressure with a gauge to verify it's not dropping out.
Might also try dropping the 1-2 shift point 200rpm at WOT to see if it goes away.
please explain...like a actual guage i wanna get a trans temp gauge just looking for the deals....and now ive got some side work so maybe soon....
 
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Old Mar 18, 2010 | 08:55 PM
  #42  
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Who said the shift points are where they should be? Are they where they should be stock or where they should be with the superchips tune? and did you modify them any?
 
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Old Mar 18, 2010 | 09:05 PM
  #43  
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I have modified them no they are not stock but I have tweaked them at a starting point and compared them with guys from s/c and I started at a baseline they suggested and they are crisp shifts they are smooth and in my power band. Why truckin do they appear off to you? What are your thoughts?
 
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Old Mar 18, 2010 | 09:22 PM
  #44  
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Load the 91 tune with no modifications to the shift points and see what that does. When you start messing with the shifts, even though they may be a slight tweak here or there, it can lead to some of those issues. I had it with my DSP and it didn't go away until I adjusted a shift point slightly.
 
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Old Mar 18, 2010 | 09:23 PM
  #45  
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At least this way you can rule it out as being or not being a user error
 
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Old Mar 18, 2010 | 09:34 PM
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Originally Posted by truckin151
Load the 91 tune with no modifications to the shift points and see what that does. When you start messing with the shifts, even though they may be a slight tweak here or there, it can lead to some of those issues. I had it with my DSP and it didn't go away until I adjusted a shift point slightly.
Not quite sure I understand either tweak or don't tweak? I can reload perf tune normal points and see if it still does it and then move em slightly afterwards.... I know for sure it could use new fluids and filters
 
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Old Mar 18, 2010 | 10:40 PM
  #47  
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Sorry, I meant to try it without your adjustments and just use the preprogrammed ones that are on the 91 tune.

With mine it was a tweak that needed to be re-tweaked to get it right. But if you dont know if it is something you did or something else it you could rule out somethings if it still doesw it with their shift points installed or if its on your end and your adjustments need a little adjusting.

As for the trans flush, unless your trans fluid is black I would only drop the pan and replace the filter and not do a full flush. I have read quite a few horror stories of people flushing it and having something go wrong because of it.
 
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Old Mar 18, 2010 | 11:30 PM
  #48  
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I agree with loading in a 91tune (stock settings) and see if the problem persists.
As far as the flushing being bad....I have flushed a number of cars and have never had any issue's.
If something happens after a flush, it must have been an underlining problem that just hadn't surfaced yet.
I've always started the flush by pumping all the fluid out of the pan and then drop the pan, change the filters and continue flushing.

as far as the shifting, when i bumped my truck up a bit, there was just a major lag due to TM, but the shift was solid. And your rpm guage dropping normal, not sure about the little glitch??, but the big drop is normal.
 

Last edited by dirtydog; Mar 18, 2010 at 11:33 PM.
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Old Mar 19, 2010 | 12:54 AM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by jusjay727
I run 93 constant have since Jan when I got my tuner even though I only have 91 tune. We don't have 91 available. Is the knock sensor replaceable? I've not heard of that before. What about running some seafoam? I'm just poking for ideas at this point. Will still get some clean fluid and filters soon.
This is the description from the manual. I discovered knock sensor retard when running the 91 tune with a mix of fuel 89/93 octane fuel and was getting a hesitation much like you are experencing.

OPERATION
3.7L V-6 / 4.7L V-8 / 5.7L V-8 Engines Only
Two knock sensors are used; one for each cylinder
bank. When the knock sensor detects a knock in one
of the cylinders on the corresponding bank, it sends
an input signal to the Powertrain Control Module
(PCM). In response, the PCM retards ignition timing
for all cylinders by a scheduled amount.
Knock sensors contain a piezoelectric material
which constantly vibrates and sends an input voltage
(signal) to the PCM while the engine operates. As the
intensity of the crystal’s vibration increases, the
knock sensor output voltage also increases.
The voltage signal produced by the knock sensor
increases with the amplitude of vibration. The PCM
receives the knock sensor voltage signal as an input.
If the signal rises above a predetermined level, the
PCM will store that value in memory and retard
ignition timing to reduce engine knock. If the knock
sensor voltage exceeds a preset value, the PCM
retards ignition timing for all cylinders. It is not a
selective cylinder retard.
The PCM ignores knock sensor input during engine
idle conditions. Once the engine speed exceeds a
specified value, knock retard is allowed.
Knock retard uses its own short term and long
term memory program.
Long term memory stores previous detonation
information in its battery-backed RAM. The maximum
authority that long term memory has over timing
retard can be calibrated.
Short term memory is allowed to retard timing up
to a preset amount under all operating conditions (as
long as rpm is above the minimum rpm) except at
Wide Open Throttle (WOT). The PCM, using short
term memory, can respond quickly to retard timing
when engine knock is detected. Short term memory
is lost any time the ignition key is turned off.
NOTE: Over or under tightening the sensor mounting
bolts will affect knock sensor performance, possibly
causing improper spark control. Always use
the specified torque when installing the knock sensors.
 
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Old Mar 19, 2010 | 10:53 PM
  #50  
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Hmmmmm that's something that could be looked at but how do I know If it is that or not can I test the knock sensor? Got me wondering dog and truckin I will try new tune in the morning got some work I gotta do so.....
 
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