Bed divider/gate?
#21
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I dunno $93 is not cheap, but it's not expensive either. I had a dealer throw in my bed extender when I bought my Chevy Silverado. Loved it, used it all the time, but mostly in the bed to keep things from sliding forward. Always put Groceries back there too. I beleive mine went for 250 which is crazy. But I do miss it daily. So I figured I'd try a different divider.
I wish shipping wasn't $24 bucks, but $70 doesn't seem too bad, imo.
Harbor freight is a blessing to many of us, but quality can be down too. Without holding, operating both myself, I can't say if both are equal.
I'll post pics of mine when I receive it.
I wish shipping wasn't $24 bucks, but $70 doesn't seem too bad, imo.
Harbor freight is a blessing to many of us, but quality can be down too. Without holding, operating both myself, I can't say if both are equal.
I'll post pics of mine when I receive it.
#22
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My local Harbor Freight has:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=96811 for $15 ($5 less than online)
and
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=43569 for $10
I'm going to try to swing by at lunch and check out quality.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=96811 for $15 ($5 less than online)
and
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=43569 for $10
I'm going to try to swing by at lunch and check out quality.
#23
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I'm back from my lunch-time shopping trip.
Both bars are similar in matertial/construction. Without using a tape-measure, I'd say that the screw-in style is 7/8" OD and the "ratcheting" is 1" OD. Much heavier than a spring-adjustable shower rod, but still in the light/medium duty range.
The screw in style has a spring-clip/detent system for coarse adjustment and a threaded extension into a nylon cap for fine adjustment. Maximum length is 70" (per the item description). The rubberized pads are about 1/2" thick and 2" x 3" (again, no tape measure).
The "ratchet" style has a ****/clamp around the tube for coarse adjustment. The extension is a friction clamp similar to a non-"geared" caulking gun. The pads are about 1/4" thick plastic with an 1/8" sheet of rubber embedded in it. The are much bigger at about 3" x 5".
The ratchet style also extends to 114" (per the box). For a bed-width application this means there is more length where both tubes are together.
I bought a pair of the ratchet style. I wouldn't want to try to secure something like a washing machine with extreme braking, but other than that I think they'll be pretty sturdy.
Both bars are similar in matertial/construction. Without using a tape-measure, I'd say that the screw-in style is 7/8" OD and the "ratcheting" is 1" OD. Much heavier than a spring-adjustable shower rod, but still in the light/medium duty range.
The screw in style has a spring-clip/detent system for coarse adjustment and a threaded extension into a nylon cap for fine adjustment. Maximum length is 70" (per the item description). The rubberized pads are about 1/2" thick and 2" x 3" (again, no tape measure).
The "ratchet" style has a ****/clamp around the tube for coarse adjustment. The extension is a friction clamp similar to a non-"geared" caulking gun. The pads are about 1/4" thick plastic with an 1/8" sheet of rubber embedded in it. The are much bigger at about 3" x 5".
The ratchet style also extends to 114" (per the box). For a bed-width application this means there is more length where both tubes are together.
I bought a pair of the ratchet style. I wouldn't want to try to secure something like a washing machine with extreme braking, but other than that I think they'll be pretty sturdy.
#24
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Rocket23 had the right idea, imho. I bought a weather-treated 2x10 and cut it to fit into the slots in my bed liner near the tailgate; it's strong & durable, even if not moveable, and I could add a second near the cab if the need arises.
That piece of lumber cost less than a telescoping bar, and even adding a second one would come in way under half the cost of every cargo gate I found online--most of which had reviews calling them chinsy. The only stout one I found cost around $300.
A few words of caution, according to my trial and error: The bed liner will give when you jam the board into the slots, so cut the board a little longer than your tape measure tells you to. When mine was the right length, I could just barely get it into the bed, holding it at a funny angle to get it past the bed rails. (Yes, I admit it: I cut mine too short and wound up shimming it with a 1-inch slice of the original lumber that I nailed back onto the end.) Also, in my case, I deliberately cut the board about 1/4 inch shorter on one side because my bed liner's slots are a speck narrower at the bottom than at the top.
That piece of lumber cost less than a telescoping bar, and even adding a second one would come in way under half the cost of every cargo gate I found online--most of which had reviews calling them chinsy. The only stout one I found cost around $300.
A few words of caution, according to my trial and error: The bed liner will give when you jam the board into the slots, so cut the board a little longer than your tape measure tells you to. When mine was the right length, I could just barely get it into the bed, holding it at a funny angle to get it past the bed rails. (Yes, I admit it: I cut mine too short and wound up shimming it with a 1-inch slice of the original lumber that I nailed back onto the end.) Also, in my case, I deliberately cut the board about 1/4 inch shorter on one side because my bed liner's slots are a speck narrower at the bottom than at the top.
#25