Hi i've had my 03 Hemi 2500 2wd Dodge for like 9 months now. It had 40,500 miles when I bought it. A couple times when I start it and put it in drive, it will shudder. It does it in Park, Drive, Neutral, and reverse. It moves in the direction it should, but with a bad vibration or shuddering. Today is the second time it did it. It happened for about 10 seconds and then I could feel it grab into gear and everything was fine. The first time I had to shut it off and restart it to get it to quit. Its only done it these two times and they were several months apart. The fluid is full and clean. What do you think this could be? Should I change the filter? Any thing else I could do for a precaution. The truck is SUPER clean and there is no signs of abuse. I think the guy did do some hauling cause the tire pressure was set up for max load 50 80. It does have the lock up torque converter and I believe its posi. Sometimes when I start it and let it idle for a minute I can hear a clunk like something engaging in the drive train when its in park.

 

Normal sounds. I usually let mine run for a bit before putting it in gear so the fluid gets to circulating good.

 

Wow, this is normal? I usually let mine idle for a minute too. I think i'm gonna do the filter change anyway. THere is two filters right? Are they both in the transmission pan? Anybody know any good walk throughs?

 

there is a hard filter inside the 545rfe. make sure the gasket is on. a lot of people change the filter, wedge the filter gasket in there wrong and end up doing it once again cause it will slip through all gears.

1.Hoist and support vehicle on safety stands.2.Place a large diameter shallow drain pan beneath the transmission pan.3.Remove bolts holding front and sides of pan to transmission.4.Loosen bolts holding rear of pan to transmission.5.Slowly separate front of pan away from transmission allowing the fluid to drain into drain pan.6.Hold up pan and remove remaining bolts holding pan to transmission.7.While holding pan level, lower pan away from transmission.8.Pour remaining fluid in pan into drain pan.
9.Remove the screw holding the primary oil filter (1) to valve body.10.Separate filter from valve body and oil pump and pour fluid in filter into drain pan.11.Inspect the oil filter seal in the bottom of the oil pump. If the seal is not installed completely in the oil pump, or is otherwise damaged, then remove and discard the oil filter seal from the bottom of the oil pump. If the seal is installed correctly and is in good condition, it can be reused.12.If replacing the cooler return filter (2), use Oil Filter Wrench 8321 to remove the filter from the transmission.

 

there is a flat (sump) filter, and a spin on filter (just like a regular oil filter). just drop the pan and replace them. do watch out for the seal on the flat filter though, if not seated properly it can cause problems such as the ones you have described. check out my DIY in the FAQS section, on istalling a torque converter. filters are covered in it.

 

ok, i called a local tranny shop and they said it would be 200 bucks and there is only one filter. I think i'll be doing it myself. I can't stand people working on my vehicles. What kind of fluid is best? I'm thinking synthetic. Its probably worth the price.

 

ATF+4 is the only fluid you should use. period. nothing else but it. its an all synthetic no matter the brand. valvolene is mopar spec apparently, and its what i use.

definitely dont use that shop, they dont even know whats in there! steer clear of them for sure. its an easy enough project to do in your driveway, with basic hand tools. be rest assured, that you have all the help you need here on these forums.

 

Yep what Ol' DJ said with regards to fluids ^.
Also, just because it "looks clean" does not mean that the transmission fluid is OK.
ATF+4 is designed to be that way as the specs state, it's very difficult to brake it down and for longevity etc.
So looking clean, is no indication of how good ATF+4 is unfortunately.

There are two filters in that trasmission.
The main sump flat filter which BTW, is different between the 2wd and 4wd model trucks.
The 2wd is slightly smaller than the 4wd and has a shorter pickup tube to it than the 4wd.
There is also a cooler return spin on cartridge filter, like the main engne oil filter but smaller.
ATF and main sump filter on these tranny's, should be changed every 30K miles.
Plus, at the 90K and 180K intervals, all the filters should be changed.
So with that said, that shop might be right when they say there's only one filter to change "at this time". It just depends what miles your at.
However, for a few dollars, I always change both filters as a piece of mind thing and you really don't know the trucks service history so I'd do everything. Don't get a flush done on these transmissions if you have lot's of miles on them though. Do a pan drop/filter change. Full flushes, push dirt and bits of old debris etc around all those small seals and holes and valves and stuff and these tranny's as said, don't like it.
Use the Mopar ATF+4 and you will be golden!.

Hope this helps?
AL.

 

Should I drain the torque converter too? Or just the pan? Is that a pain in the ***?

 

http://www.60ateight.com/DodgeRam/

give that a read. if you really want to drain the converter. its not THAT hard. its not totally necessary either. but would be nice to do.