1,500 Mile trip and 90,000 Miles on my pickup???
Sounds like you got all your ducks in a row.
Powersteering fluid should be bright colored, any dingyness and it should be changed. the racks in these trucks are prone to failure.
Brake fluid...should be transparent, if it's turning brown, flush it. What I like to do is the simple flush. It's same procedure as bleeding the air out of your lines. Crack the nipple on the caliper open and depress the brake pedal. I have a one-man bleeder i paid $5 for. i pump the brakes3-4times and then empty thebleeder cylinder once it fills up. repeat until the fluid is clean and then move to the next wheel. Just make sure you don't push the pedal further than 75% of the way. There are seals inside the master cylinder and if you bottom out the pedal to the floor it could score the seals inside the booster if there is rust on the rod...brake fluid and 90kmi...likely but no worries, just put a block to limit the pedal travel. Use the best brake fluid.
Advance Auto carries valvoline Synthetic +4, which is what I have always used. brake fluid is cheap, so an extra $3 for Synthetic is worth it because it has a higher temp qualities that perform better and last longer.
Just check how much life is left on the pads. if they feel fine, visual thickness check is all you need for that since the wheels will come off anyways. Use a torque stock or wrench on your wheels. I would def re-check the lugs just before you leave too.
Good Luck
Powersteering fluid should be bright colored, any dingyness and it should be changed. the racks in these trucks are prone to failure.
Brake fluid...should be transparent, if it's turning brown, flush it. What I like to do is the simple flush. It's same procedure as bleeding the air out of your lines. Crack the nipple on the caliper open and depress the brake pedal. I have a one-man bleeder i paid $5 for. i pump the brakes3-4times and then empty thebleeder cylinder once it fills up. repeat until the fluid is clean and then move to the next wheel. Just make sure you don't push the pedal further than 75% of the way. There are seals inside the master cylinder and if you bottom out the pedal to the floor it could score the seals inside the booster if there is rust on the rod...brake fluid and 90kmi...likely but no worries, just put a block to limit the pedal travel. Use the best brake fluid.
Advance Auto carries valvoline Synthetic +4, which is what I have always used. brake fluid is cheap, so an extra $3 for Synthetic is worth it because it has a higher temp qualities that perform better and last longer.
Just check how much life is left on the pads. if they feel fine, visual thickness check is all you need for that since the wheels will come off anyways. Use a torque stock or wrench on your wheels. I would def re-check the lugs just before you leave too.
Good Luck
HERE's a quick guide I found.
Some people will say to open up the drain on the bottom of the rack, but that takes forever and generally allows air in the system if not done properly, but even so...Once you drain completely and fill up you just turn the wheels back and forth and that bleeds the air out of the lines. It's a bit of a pain as I did it on my mustang a few times. Takes about 10min to bleed the air out if you do get any in there.
Stick to the link and you'll be fine. it's basically just removing the return line on the pump and sticking it into a bucket is all. Same as you would do to flush your transmission.
Some people will say to open up the drain on the bottom of the rack, but that takes forever and generally allows air in the system if not done properly, but even so...Once you drain completely and fill up you just turn the wheels back and forth and that bleeds the air out of the lines. It's a bit of a pain as I did it on my mustang a few times. Takes about 10min to bleed the air out if you do get any in there.
Stick to the link and you'll be fine. it's basically just removing the return line on the pump and sticking it into a bucket is all. Same as you would do to flush your transmission.
nice thread. hope i'm not tread jacking here but i'm about to go on road trip about the same distance round trip. i have just over 91k on mine, got all fluids done (tranny, diff, transfer case) actually got rack replaced as well since it was starting to leak, didn't drip yet but was low in power steering fluid.
i recently got a superchips 3865 and have it tuned to mxs, i haven't seen any gains from this and thought i would ask on here, the best setting for mpg?
i've seen mixed reviews, some are saying 91 tune with 93 gas appears to give the most mpg and the cost difference kinda offsets it and you get that addition power.
mxs tune seems to be up in the air from what i gathered. anyone out there that's done alot of testing with these settings? obviously each truck will be different and i'm going to test 91 tune with 93 gas on my trip, but thought i would get some feedback from here.
thanks,
-D
i recently got a superchips 3865 and have it tuned to mxs, i haven't seen any gains from this and thought i would ask on here, the best setting for mpg?
i've seen mixed reviews, some are saying 91 tune with 93 gas appears to give the most mpg and the cost difference kinda offsets it and you get that addition power.
mxs tune seems to be up in the air from what i gathered. anyone out there that's done alot of testing with these settings? obviously each truck will be different and i'm going to test 91 tune with 93 gas on my trip, but thought i would get some feedback from here.
thanks,
-D
Well thanks again everyone. I went to my doge dealer and O' Rileys and picked up about $300 worth of fluids, filters, RTV, plugs.
Hopeing with the help of my neighbor and his hoist I can get my list finished on Sunday.
Hopeing with the help of my neighbor and his hoist I can get my list finished on Sunday.
. Oh, yeah, the oil is a cake-walk compared to the plugs.
Don't hang up the phone yet, In regards to the serpentine belt. Any cracks on the underside, is a dead give away, for a new belt. And on flushing the brakes, I would start at the furthest wheel first and work your way back to the master cylinder. So that would be rr then lr and rf followed by lf. I did 1200plus on my truck too Ohio. But had half as many miles, so needless too say I only did at least half of what is posted here.Have a safe trip. above all!!
Well started changing the plugs on my truck this after noon got two of them out and had to quit (dad broke down with the swather so I had to get that going)
After seeing the two plugs I HAVE to change them SOON. The two I took out are shot have over .075 of gap
.
Another question sence i'm doing all new plugs and this should I be changing the plug wires and the coil packs also? They look good but I know on plug wires looks doesn't really matter. I'm almost positive the wires and plugs have never been changed after seeing the plugs.
After seeing the two plugs I HAVE to change them SOON. The two I took out are shot have over .075 of gap
Another question sence i'm doing all new plugs and this should I be changing the plug wires and the coil packs also? They look good but I know on plug wires looks doesn't really matter. I'm almost positive the wires and plugs have never been changed after seeing the plugs.







