T-bar cranking and alignment
#11
The 3" block option is if you crank your torsion key bolts for the 1" of extra lift making the front 5" instead of 4".
A lot of companies are falsely advertising kits for the torsion front ends as higher than they really are because they say you can crank the bolts for the last 1 or 2" of lift.
It's perfectly safe to crank the bolts an inch as long as the kit does not already significantly raise the CV angle.
So it's basically up to you, if you want 5" up front and a level truck, get the 3" blocks and crank the front the extra inch. If 4" of lift is fine for your needs, get the 2" blocks for a level truck...
There is also nothing wrong with using a combo of a level kit (or even a free bolt crank) in unison with a 3" body lift. You'll spend under $500 for all necessary hardware (about $100 less if you just crank the key bolts) and have a nice stance. If you are going to off-road a lot, the suspension lift will give you a much better ride, but with moderate and light off-roading this is a fine option that will save you a lot of $$$...
A lot of companies are falsely advertising kits for the torsion front ends as higher than they really are because they say you can crank the bolts for the last 1 or 2" of lift.
It's perfectly safe to crank the bolts an inch as long as the kit does not already significantly raise the CV angle.
So it's basically up to you, if you want 5" up front and a level truck, get the 3" blocks and crank the front the extra inch. If 4" of lift is fine for your needs, get the 2" blocks for a level truck...
There is also nothing wrong with using a combo of a level kit (or even a free bolt crank) in unison with a 3" body lift. You'll spend under $500 for all necessary hardware (about $100 less if you just crank the key bolts) and have a nice stance. If you are going to off-road a lot, the suspension lift will give you a much better ride, but with moderate and light off-roading this is a fine option that will save you a lot of $$$...
Last edited by HammerZ71; 06-20-2010 at 11:22 PM.
#12
The 3" block option is if you crank your torsion key bolts for the 1" of extra lift making the front 5" instead of 4".
A lot of companies are falsely advertising kits for the torsion front ends as higher than they really are because they say you can crank the bolts for the last 1 or 2" of lift.
It's perfectly safe to crank the bolts an inch as long as the kit does not already significantly raise the CV angle.
So it's basically up to you, if you want 5" up front and a level truck, get the 3" blocks and crank the front the extra inch. If 4" of lift is fine for your needs, get the 2" blocks for a level truck...
There is also nothing wrong with using a combo of a level kit (or even a free bolt crank) in unison with a 3" body lift. You'll spend under $500 for all necessary hardware (about $100 less if you just crank the key bolts) and have a nice stance. If you are going to off-road a lot, the suspension lift will give you a much better ride, but with moderate and light off-roading this is a fine option that will save you a lot of $$$...
A lot of companies are falsely advertising kits for the torsion front ends as higher than they really are because they say you can crank the bolts for the last 1 or 2" of lift.
It's perfectly safe to crank the bolts an inch as long as the kit does not already significantly raise the CV angle.
So it's basically up to you, if you want 5" up front and a level truck, get the 3" blocks and crank the front the extra inch. If 4" of lift is fine for your needs, get the 2" blocks for a level truck...
There is also nothing wrong with using a combo of a level kit (or even a free bolt crank) in unison with a 3" body lift. You'll spend under $500 for all necessary hardware (about $100 less if you just crank the key bolts) and have a nice stance. If you are going to off-road a lot, the suspension lift will give you a much better ride, but with moderate and light off-roading this is a fine option that will save you a lot of $$$...
Thanks!!
#15
Yep, what RH said... however I only bought gap guards for the first truck I ever put a body lift on, after I saw what they were, I spent $20 on heavy rubber floor mats and cut them out of it, rather than $100 on the PA ones. No way to tell the difference.
Anything over about 1.5" of crank and you'll need the shocks. If you buy a level kit you can get one of the ones with shock relocation brackets and retain your stock shocks. These kits are still under $100...
Anything over about 1.5" of crank and you'll need the shocks. If you buy a level kit you can get one of the ones with shock relocation brackets and retain your stock shocks. These kits are still under $100...
#16
Okay sounds good!
How about these shocks? I did not know if they are strictly for stock or what. I am such a newb at this stuff. Thanks!
http://www.4wheelparts.com/Lift-Kits...ShockingES9000
How about these shocks? I did not know if they are strictly for stock or what. I am such a newb at this stuff. Thanks!
http://www.4wheelparts.com/Lift-Kits...ShockingES9000
#17
These leveling keys claim that you can keep your stock shocks. I wonder how they figure that.
http://www.topguncustomz.com/Store/G...view=234472897
http://www.topguncustomz.com/Store/G...view=234472897
#18
If I were to guess I'd say because they are adjustable from 1" to 2.5" of lift. I am guessing that after about 1.5" you'll need longer shocks. But technically if you keep it under that then you can keep your stock shocks.
IMO anything gets close to 2" is gonna either need the relocation brackets or longer shocks...
IMO anything gets close to 2" is gonna either need the relocation brackets or longer shocks...
#20