Well the way you have it wired right now, that bigger fuse is not protecting the controller like it should. The after market fuse you added is after the relay and the relay is what is holding the current load. So it will never blow. However, that smaller OEM 20-25A fuse you have on the controller will blow in no time because it is too small.

That looks like a Hayden controller. Is it?

Go get your meter back out and test the contacts on the relay and make sure 30 to 87a are closed and 30 to 87 are open.

If so, then go get some extra wire and run 85 to ground and hit 86 with 12v. This will energize the relay and make the contacts change. At that point, again, test the contacts as stated above.

 

I'm confused...the controller (yes, it's the hayden) came with the original 25A fuse inline with the low end of the fan. The switched and dedicated hot wires are non fused. I thought that the 60A fuse needed to go inline between the high end of the fan and the controller, mimicking the low speed config. Not the case? The only thing I've done is add the 60A inline between the controller and the high speed wiring, and add the bigger relay. If that's not correct, then where should it go? Between the switched power source and the controller? Or maybe the dedicated power source and the controller?

Thanks for the how to on testing the relay.

 

Well now that you say it like that, maybe my memory is bad on how I did my controller......LOL

Let me take back what i said until I have a chance to look at mine today at lunch.....LOL

 

The controller only has two switched sources. One that is controller by the temp sensor and the other attaches to a 12volt source, which is usually designated for the a/c. You pretty much don't worry about that blue wire because the a/C condensor has it's own fan.

The controller you have works great for the low side. If you are trying to wire in the high side to turn on with the temp sensor then you have to run it like this.

_______________Battery "+" Terminal______________ Battery "+" Terminal
------------------------|-------------------------------------|
FAN High Side "+" ---- Relay------fuseable link "+" wire ---- Controller----temp probe
------------------------|-------------------------------------|
----------------Ground on Chassis----------------------Ground on Chassis

FAN Gound "-" -------Relay ----- Ground on Chassis

 

Sorry about the white dashed lines. I had to add those in so that it kept the spacing correct.

 

Ok that is confusing as all hell...but at the same time, it doesn't makes sense about the controller because it's listed as a dual speed controller. It has a separate wire for the A/C clutch, the green wire. The blue and the orange wires are listed as fan 1 and 2.

At any rate, just so that I comply with troubleshooting requests here...here is what I found testing my relay.

When I tried 30 to 87A, it was open (beeeeep!) And 30 to 87 was dead.
Then I applied power to the others as requested and I could physically hear the circuit switch over....but then instantly switch back when power was released. Tested the same as above again with the same results.
Then tested again while I kept the power applied, and the two reversed giving power through 30 - 87.

 

If your controller is like mine and is a 3647 then it is not a dual speed but a dual fan controller.

Maybe your meter works different than mine (Fluke 87) but when I test for continuity, if I can measure from point A to B then I get a tone. If I cannot measure from point A to B then there is no tone.

The AC wire is not needed to be connected on the controller nor is the second fan wire.

Black - ground
Green - not used
Yellow - swtiched 12v
Red - constant 12v
Orange - low side of fan
Blue - not used

 

OK, then that makes more sense. I have been confusing dual fan with dual speed. So to make it easy, I just basically clip out the small fuse, replace THAT with the 60A, again remove the blue wire from the equation, and use the larger relay...and just go with the high side and be done.

side question...
If I wanted to keep the low side as is...controlled by the controller, but have the high side I can flip on manually, then I could follow quad's diagram but run it to a switch instead? Would that cause problems with the controller sending the signal for the low side to run? I don't want to burn out the fan or the controller.

 

Hayden makes a model 3654 which is a two speed fan controller. You can set it for 180* and the low side of the fan will kick on. At 190* the low speed will kick off and the high speed will kick on until the temps are less than 190* where then the low speed will take over until it is cool.

Does that sound more like something you would want?

 

Well, since I've already purchased all this other stuff, I would much rather make use of it. Otherwise I have a controller,a relay, and a 60A fuse I can't use. But in the end, I just want lo/hi capabilities.