Weed, not exactly true. I use a thermo switch in the top of the thermostat housing, that works as thermostatic control for the ground on the relay. My Thermoswitch, came out of a Audi. They used them on Citations also. They open at 185 to 195 depending on the year.. Super simple setup to install. Fan, Relay, Fuse Holder, and Thermo Switch all New 55 dollars.

 

LOL.....Thats all a controller is my friend. A relay, fuse holder and a thermo switch (or probe).

So whether you know it or not, you are using a controller on your fan to tell it when to cut on and off.

 

Ok, reporting back from my trip up the mountain. Well, not so good. After the trip up the mountain, the truck starting to run hot, I'd say 3/4 on the temp meter. Pulled over at a stop and noticed the fan was not kicking on. Nothing on low or high. Since it was getting dark headed to my destination and watched the temp. Since I only had the one major climb on this trip, the temp stayed about the 1/2 mark at highway speeds. Well checked the positve feed to the fan and it was getting voltage, so checked the main ground and it wasn't fastened tightly. So we reattached a new butt connector and got a better tool for crimping. Well put it back and still nothing from the fan. Well we were stumped, we decided that we would check the fuse, even though voltage was getting through. Well, the 50A fuse was burnt. So that was the cause of my fan not turning on. So we bypassed the main fuse and nothing. Well the switch I wired up in the cab had the ground wire fall off the terminal (note: this switch was designed for sodiering, but I didn't have time to do it), so I firmly attached the ground wires to the switch and now everything works as designed. So the low speed kept it running 1/2 or below the whole trip home but this was going down hill, so high speed wasn't needed. It may be working better too because the main ground is now fastened better.

So Rule #1: always check the fuse first (Don't rely on voltage readings or just looking at it. Mine looked fine but, when taken out you could see the end piece was melted)

Rule #2: always make sure your connections are tightly fastened.

Rule #3: alwasy take the mechanical fan with you on a trip incase the electric fan does stop working. It will save headache and worry.

 

Good catch. But if you are melting things it is because of two reasons. One you are pulling too much juice through too small of a wire or two, your grounds are too small or clean or poor grounds.

But i think you know that now.....LOL

Also, carry extra fused with you just as you would for your regular fuse panel as well.

 

I used 8 ga wiring all around, which is bigger then what the fan came with. ha ha. I think the fuse was defective, or maybe the ground wasn't the greatest which caused more amps to be pulled which caused the fuse to blow. But I'm definitely good on the wiring department.

 

Whos electric fan did you use? did it happen to come with the wiring to include the a/c/ system? can i do the same thing with just some parts from a wrecker??

 

I used the ford taurus fan. The A/C condensor has it's own fan stock from factory but wouldn't be enough to cool the main radiator.

 

What year did you use? Also is there a wiring schmatic that you used?? as i have a/c and need to cool it also.

 

This is all you need

https://dodgeforum.com/forum/3rd-gen...c-fan-diy.html

Be sure to go through the rest of the FAQs as there are lots of good things in there

 

Can someone make me a parts list? And I there a detailed "How To" for this? Thanks.