I'm a little confused about the R & R of the upper control arm, do you need to remove the shock absorber?

I have read this thread: https://dodgeforum.com/forum/3rd-gen...joint-2wd.html

Where OlDirtyJohn removes it from his Ram 2500. But I have also found where it say's not too also.

I did notice he used the same Pitman ArmRemover (OEM 25262) I have, where the others used a Dodge tool 8677 Remover. The Dodge tool looks like a "C" where mine is a "U" shape. Will that effect the need to remove the shock?

 

i removed the shock because it allows the suspension to be fully unloaded. easier to work with. you COULD do it without taking the shock out. but its so easy to take out and put back in, why wouldnt you?

 

And keep in mind there may be some front end differences between his 2500 and your 1500. I have always used a pitman arm puller to pop loose my ball joints though.

 

OlDirtyJohn & weedahoe,

Thanks for your reply's, I thought that might be the reason you did it.
Also I always use a puller, no hammering on the nut/stud here I seen to many fools ruin there knuckle face or wallow the ball joint hole doing it that way. I plan on marking the bolts with a white machinist pen for alignment on reinstall of the control arm. Also on the drivers side they put in shims on my last alignment to take up slack between the bushing and mount area, I might not need them with new bushings. But then again I will keep them and see.

I'm also thinking about doing the Stabilizer Link bushings too, just make make sure they are fresh. Also the new Control Arm w/ball (Moog) comes with a straight Zerk fitting which I plan to remove and install a new 45 degree or possible a 90 degree in it's place.

I'm going to start in about 2hrs just waiting on parts to be delivered.
I'll let you know how it went later.

Thanks Again,

Rob
"Dodge" it's a love/hate relationship!!!

 

Well I got everything done, it took about 2.5 hours total. Replaced both side upper control arms and both side stabilizer link bushings. Will do a alignment check tomorrow.
The 1500 is much easier than the 2500, therefore did not need to drop shocks.

SAFETY NOTE: When replacing stabilizer bar bushings, be sure that both front wheels are either on the ground or in the air. Otherwise, the sway bar will be spring loaded. With one wheel jacked up. Removal of either nut on the top of the stabilizer link could result in a serious injury.

Thanks again for the help,

Rob

 

i didnt NEED to drop the shocks when doing my 2500, i just felt that the 3 minutes spent removing 3 bolts was well worth my piece of mind.

 

Guys, This is an excellent thread. What bolts are your referring to, when you discuss marking for alignment?
Thanks in advance

 

I got my head under the wheel well today while the parts are on order. I see you mean the 2 bolts at the body end of the upper control arm. I Did not realize those were slots not holes.