Air fuel ratios are critical when using super- or turbocharging. As noted, one doesn't want to run lean. I've a bunch of broken race parts to support this! For competition we use gauges that give a numerical display, not the bouncing light-bars, which are okay on the street.

And, there are engine control systems that do allow one to modify air-fuel ratios, timing, etc.

All the best.

 

I removed the tranny pan and welded a bung into it for that gauge, the factory oil filter housing has two empty plugs on it
and the Autometer gauge has a fitting that screwed right in. As for the Air fuel gauge I just drilled a hole in the factory downpipe after the Cat and welded a bung there as well. Although the downpipe is aluminum and you need special aluminum weld for that. The Engine runs about 200-210 degrees when at normal operating temp.
The tranny runs quite cool actually. If your towing or going up hills alot it runs about 180 degrees. I had to be really careful with the tranny pan, it is very flimsy. I am waiting for the Mag-Hytec pans to come out which are three times as strong and hold way more fluid.

 

If your going to use a narrowband 02 based AFR gauge you'd be best off passing and saving the money. Since you already have one, go to an exhaust shop, have an extra 02 sensor bung welded on and get a bosch single wire 02 sensor (about 30-40 bucks). Thats the safest way to do it.

Now, Narrowband 02 sensors are just about useless at WOT. First they are not sensitive enough, secondly they are dramatically effected by heat. I've been soley running wideband 02 systems (my prefrence is www.innovatemotorsports.com but AEM, Techedge and a few others) ever since damn near loosing a motor to NB02 tuning.

 

Hey Dr. Meow where did you get that gauge pod at, it looks very nice.

 

The air/fuel gauge is a good way to monior your air/fuel ratio. On a stock neon (or any other stock car) they are some what usless if your computer is functioning fine. HOWEVER, on vehicals that are not stock they can be a life saver and in some conditions a must have. For example on my 95 neon (highly modded) I MUST run an air/fuel gauge because I am running an apexi SAFC. And in order to "TUNE" the SAFC you must monitor air/fuel, or you WILL be buying a new motor. Now there are also 2 kinds of air/fuel gauges, Narrow band, and Wideband. The easiest way to discribe the diffrence between them is the narrow band on measures major changes in the air fuel, while the the wideband will regester the slightest increase or decrease in fuel/air. There are more diffrences so if you are thinking about installing them reaserch it out. If you only want the dancing light effect go narrow, but if you are going to be "tuning" spend the extra money and go with wideband.