Please help with gears
Hello everyone,
I am going to start off saying that I have done some searching but can't seem to find the right answers. So if you find them already posted please take it easy on me.
I have a 2wd 1500 with 3.55 gears in the rear. I was playing in the salvage yard today and found a complete rear end with 3.92 in it. The questions I have are:
Do I need to use the drive shaft with the 3.92 gears or will mine work?
The junkyard guys aren't sure but ifthe new rear end has limited slip and my current set up does not will that mess anything up?
Should I get just the gears or do I need to get the complete set-up rotor to rotor?
And my most important question is, should I go from a 3.55 to a 3.92 or will it be the same thing?
I am going to start off saying that I have done some searching but can't seem to find the right answers. So if you find them already posted please take it easy on me.
I have a 2wd 1500 with 3.55 gears in the rear. I was playing in the salvage yard today and found a complete rear end with 3.92 in it. The questions I have are:
Do I need to use the drive shaft with the 3.92 gears or will mine work?
The junkyard guys aren't sure but ifthe new rear end has limited slip and my current set up does not will that mess anything up?
Should I get just the gears or do I need to get the complete set-up rotor to rotor?
And my most important question is, should I go from a 3.55 to a 3.92 or will it be the same thing?
3.55 to 3.92 will make a slight difference but most guys go to a 4.10 (33" tire) or 4.56 (35"+ tire) rear end.
you only need the gears but the entire diff would be an easier install
usually you need to find "the guy" that does Chrysler rear ends if your just doing gears
doesn't matter if it has LSD
most guys on here will say new gears and a Detroit true trac (DTT) or alburn LSD
you only need the gears but the entire diff would be an easier install
usually you need to find "the guy" that does Chrysler rear ends if your just doing gears
doesn't matter if it has LSD
most guys on here will say new gears and a Detroit true trac (DTT) or alburn LSD
If you can get the gears for dirt cheap, go for it. But a NEW ring & pinion is only about $200. You'll still need an install kit (about $100) and installation (good, reputable shops charge about $300).
So you are gonna have $400 in it before the actual gears. If they place is gonna sell 'em to you for like $50 or less, fine. But much more than that and you might as well buy new and go 4.56s...
So you are gonna have $400 in it before the actual gears. If they place is gonna sell 'em to you for like $50 or less, fine. But much more than that and you might as well buy new and go 4.56s...
Hey everyone, Thanks for the comments. The junkyard is wanting 60 for the gears and 110 for the whole thing rotor to rotor.
I just thought this may be a good deal for a little upgrade but if it wouldn't really be worth it than I'll pass it up.
Hammer you mentioned a new ring and pinion. Would that not already be in there or if it is, would using it be asking for trouble? Sorry I'm not too familer with this area of the truck.
I just thought this may be a good deal for a little upgrade but if it wouldn't really be worth it than I'll pass it up.
Hammer you mentioned a new ring and pinion. Would that not already be in there or if it is, would using it be asking for trouble? Sorry I'm not too familer with this area of the truck.
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If you are going to get everything from rotor to rotor for 110 and it has the differential and gears in it then I would do that. You could always either swap it out with yours completely or take out the gears and sell the rest. And yes the ring and pinion will be in the differential assuming they have not taken it out already and sold it.





