Wiring in the resistors would just force you to pull even more current through your headlight harness which may cause issue's.
55w bulbs in a base style that will fit your socket is highly unlikely.
Overheating may be because your ballasts are absorbing 55w and cannot release that much to the bulbs??? I honestly don't know for sure.

Philips did make a 50w bulb called the DL-50 which is made in a D2s base. It's a longer lasting and has a higher output than standard bulbs, but again...I don't think it's made anymore, if they are, then they will be very hard to find here in the U.S.
Who wants a bulb that can't be replaced if something goes wrong??? Not I.

 

Dirty, when I bought my wifes Mini Cooper for her it had HIBs and one bulb was out. The BWM dealer wanted $200 for ONE bulb. I went one ebay and bought TWO D2S bulbs for about $10 shipped.

That was almost 2 years ago now and those bulbs still burn and have good light. They are much better than the halogen bulbs she has in her car before her Mini.

There is no way I would do "BMW" bulbs and or bulbs that are hard to find and acquire. No way........

 

^^ Well it's not BMW who makes the bulbs. They just use Osram or Philips with a huge mark up. You can buy Philips bulbs for roughly $70/pr online all day long. The quality of the Philips over generics is huge. Not only in the light ouput, but evenness from one bulb to another. it's all about the salts used inside the bulb that cost all that money which is why cheaper bulbs tend to burn out and lack of assembly control for the uneven brightness from one bulb to another.
I can tell a difference between my HIDXtra bulbs as one side is slightly bluer than the other where as my Philips bulbs are dead even as far as color.(quality control)
More salts and quality of salt blends inside the bulb is what controls the output and lifespan. MOST aftermarket HID bulbs will get anywhere's from 400-1200+hrs of life(same as a halogen) where as OEM supplied bulbs(Philips/Osram) are good for well over 2,000hrs and still have over 90% output.

Buy some new bulbs for your wife's car and only change out one side. You will see the difference almost immediately. It's good to have an extra set on hand anyways. I'm not saying your bulbs are crap, but simply stating that it's hard to tell the diminishing effects if you don't have a new bulb to compare with.
ALL HID bulbs no matter what brand or price have degrading light output the more hours they are used but the better quality salts used will have less effects over their lifespan as far as output goes.

 

No Im aware of the quality of the salts used and how they get around it for cheaper bulbs. Ive got a spare set BTW....

I learned a long time ago to keep a spare set because you cant just to go Autozone and buy one. No one around here sells HID bulbs.

 

Been reading up more on this issue guys...still getting no where...im interested in wiring in some resistors to fool the computer. No idea where to wire it in tho. I have also read up about some people using their own relay system, however I don't think that mine would work cause they are a dual beam hid kit.

The paperwork that I got with it also said something about how on some vehicles the ground from the headlight plug is not a true ground...what do you knwo about that? Would it help maybe?

 

So STILL working this out, i have been chatting with my supplier who sold me the kit. He keeps trying to tell me that the system is drawing 55W of power. How does that work on a 35W bulb? Or am I just thinking to much like an electrician?

He tried going over ohms law and how the resistance does not change too much between the two systems, but the amps changed. Under what I am reading on this forum is that the computer recognizes the resistance? Which makes more sense to me than amps. Under what else this forum is saying is that the bulbs do not have any resistance. Hence the reason for wiring in resistors. However my issue is different from those of a 35W ballast, just in the fact that mine work, up until a certain point then "Blink" once run for a little while then do it again at random times. VS not working at all when the vehicle is started. SOMETHING has got to be different...i just cant figure out what it is...
I would go to a 35W ballast but two reasons(no returns) and the other one is I am still only running a 35W bulb so its only pulling 35W same as someone running a 35W ballast. Should I not be experiencing the same problems...?

SORRY guys but I am sooooooo very confused and have been running so many calculations as to why this is not working. I'm running on just my fogs right now cause people get mad at me for my lights blinking...If I were to wire in some resistors ive been reading that I need a 50W? Which makes sense cause its a 50W system. But what kind of Ohm ratings? I have no idea guys, help me out here...

 

Maybe this will help

https://dodgeforum.com/forum/3rd-gen...ease-help.html

 

your confirming then that the ECU reads the resistance, NOT power consumption I.E amps?

 

Some guys have used the cheaper and easier to get (read - "local") radioshack 20 watt resistors and they have not worked. But when they use the 50 watt resistors their issues go away.

So although it seems like resistance (ohms) would matter, we see consumption being the determining factor.

Some guys have bought 55 watt HID kits and have had mixed results