I installed a remote start/alarm combo(code Alarm) 2yrs ago. Haven't had any issue's with the truck. I called up Tech support where I purchase it from because my 2way remote stopped working and also because I didn't want my headlights to be active at all during lock/unlock or when the alarm was going off(HID's).
Well long story short. The technician(owner) told me what to do as far as eliminating the headlights which was pull out a resistor that they placed inline and move the parking wire to another location. Everything seemed good because I really didn't drive it but rather tested remote functions is all from outside the truck.
Well, today I went out to drive it and I had No gas guage reading, No directionals, No wiper blades, no headlight controls and the heads and parking lights come on with the truck on acc and running.
I've checked all the fuses, I've put things back the way they were BEFORE all changes made yesterday and still no luck.
I unhooked the entire aftermarket interface and still no luck.
I unplugged the battery to reset things..no luck.
I don't know wtf the problem is other than a bad aftermarket interface and I hope the TIPM didn't get fried somehow although I don't believe that's the case since everything does function if the alarm is activated.
if anyone has experienced no gas guage, no directionals no 4-ways and no headlight controls.... Please give some input.

 

Uhmmmm---sounds like you mighta fried the FCM, front control module,under the relay center (fuse box).

You may need to call a dealer to see if there is any way to reset things other than disconnecting the power to re-boot everything

Good Luck

Are you getting any dtc's???

 

Well, I did a ton of research and much to my demise....I believe it is the TIPM that is the issue. Here is what I found.... The TIPM will turn off/override any circuit that is detected to be of short circuit or overloaded. If it detects something like 250x's a short or overload it will turn off the circuit internally and the only way to reset it is with a Starscan tool. WTF. Effing Tech support blows. I only did what they said and now I have to bring my truck to a dealer and pay money for them to reset it? This sucks. I HATE going to the dealership. If they put one scratch in my truck or get grease on my interior I will flip out even more......lol ......I shoulda just left it alone.

 

I had the 2way on my Clifford stop communicating once. I removed power from the alarm and afterwards it worked. Ive only had it happen once. As for your issue, IDK man and I feel bad about not even having the slightest idea.

 

went to the dealer and they said that the TIPM needs to be replaced, but I think it's possibly the Guage cluster? i looked at all the schematics and the wire I hooked to with the alarm was a 12v return line for the headlights..oops This line goes to the cluster in the same section that controls the directionals, gas guage, headlamp switch..etc but i'm not sure if it goes into the tipm before heading into the cluster? meaning, does the cluseter get the reading from the tipm?
Anyways, Dealerr quoted $500+tax for replacement/programming on top of the $108 diagnostic fee I had to pay.
weedahoe, take a look at your diagrams. I hooked up the alarm parking light output feed to the Headlamp white/yellow stripe wire so this will show you what to look for. Let me know what you think because the Dealer WILL NOT warranty it. Mechanic said..."You have too many aftermarket electrical items in there", yet he couldn't find the actual source of the problem. he was only going by experience to diagnose this issue. The problem was due to my negligence, but if they replace the TIPM and it does not solve the problem, then I have to keep guessing and pulling more money out of pocket. i think it's BS that the dealer can get away with that crap.


*Also, i completely dissesembled the TIPM and seen no burnt traces. Mechanic said he did that to a caravan and seen no burnt traces yet a new tipm solved the problem. I just dont wanna throw away $550 if it aint bad. There should be some kind of warranty against the dealer replacing parts that aren;t needed. We all know that isn't gonn happen..

 

*UPDATE*
Take a deep brather and refresh your eyeballs because this is long winded...

Went to the dealer again today to have them install and program a new TIPM. It did absolutely nothing! Same crap is going on. They tried charging me $500+tax for something that didn't fix the problem. I went bananna's on the service writer and he said, "well, the old tipm was toast and whatever the problem is will likely fry this one too". Okay, let me get this straight...The old tipm that was doing the EXACT problems as this one was toast??? I don't think so. The problem is because it was never the tipm to begin with. So, I asked for my old tipm back and he said there would be a core charge of $200..wtf?? There is a dealer selling the same one on Ebay for $310 shipped no core. I think they didn't want me taking it because it would show their ignorance on the situation.
Anyways, I threw a fit and said I wasn't paying the $540. The GM blurted from the other room, "well if you didn't have all those aftermarket electrical items installed, we wouldn't even be discussing this". I said fine, I'll take everything out and return the truck to stock and I'll be back next Wednesday and if the problem isn't fixed, then it can't possibly be anything aftermarket causing the issue and if the problem goes away doing a simple reconfig, then I'll pay the price! The GM calmed down and said okay we can do that.
Problem is that the mechanic doesn't know his head from his *** until the Starscan tool says otherwise. They rely too much on the handheld to diagnose problems and it seems they are loosing grasp on instinct and practical hands on diagnosis. The mechanic never even touched his DMM yet he diagnosed the tipm as being bad.
I pulled out my radio and unhooked EVERYTHING aftermarket. Tried resetting the truck by pulling off the pos & neg terminals and touching them to each other for 15sec to bleed the pcm capacitors all out. Nothing. Still have the same problem.

Okay..the gas guage not working, I did the instrument cluster guage check and all the needles swept good. This tells me that the input is not coming into the cluster but the cluster is operable. I get a code that says Fuel circuit input High.
Headlight/fog control is inoperative. Directionals are inoperative.
I still get no warning indicator lights AT ALL. Cluster bad???
I called the Alarm company and went over with the owner about which wire I hooked to that I thought all these problems stemmed from and he said "Absolutely not". The wire I hooked to would have no effect on anything that has happened, this was a relief. I ended up asking if I could send back just the module and if he could test it to see if it was in working order. This way I can show the dealer proof that there is nothing wrong with the alarm, OR, if it is indeed bad, I wouldn't bugger up another computer or what have you with reconnecting a bad alarm module.
I think I'm gonna have to print out the Magnusson-Moss Warranty act to have handy dandy when the dealer tries denying me warranty again. Service writer said that they wouldn't warrant me because of the stuff I had yet they didn't even try to prove my chit did any harm. I had to argue with these jerkoffs for about an hour. i think the only reason they let me walk away without paying is because they didn't want to deal with me anymore. Kinda funny but it's kinda sad to have to go through all this.
When i talked to the mechanic he was like...uhh, uhh, I don't even know where to begin. Just goes to show how little they truley know. Mechanic was a total douche, like I was wasting his time, but it was really because he didn't know what to do! I had to school him on some stuff and he got mad because he thought I was belittling him...lol Learn your job dumbass.

So now I gotta deliver a chit load of firewood this weekend and I'm gonna have to use the good 'ole hand signals out the window...lmao Atleast it's gonna be fairly nice and not raining

 

I had a problem when you wrote that they were charging the diag fee with the service fee. Most places I have gone to will throw out or at least reduce the Diag fee if you let them do the service. I know you checked the fuses, Have you checked all your relays? Also did you check all the fuses, Both under the hood and under the dash?

 

Yeah, I had a problem with it too, but I figured they would do a bit more than what they did which was slap the computer on it. ..twice, because the mechanic was obviously only trained to perform as stated on the paper rather than looking in front of him. I wonder if he even knows what a DMM is?
I only have fuses under the hood. There are no onboard relays as it's all done electronically through the TIPM. That is not the problem as I found out today and thought just as much. Pretty sure the cluster needs to be replaced. I did a bit of probing and testing myself. They just stabbed at the most obvious thing in sight and hoped for the best. They were so sure

 

Quick Look at alldata, The only things they have in common is the Instrument cluster and the TIPM. The are all connected directly to the IC, Then communications for these devices is done between the IC and the TIPM thru a 3 wires. Red Fused power wire and White and White orange twisted pair wire. I would vary carefully check the connections with these 3 wires. Check that twisted pair. Even maybe go as far as running a new Twisted pair between the cluster and The Tipm and see what happens. Also there are other power and grnd wiresgoing to the Cluster, So don't assume the power and ground is good just because the sweep test work. Also check Fuse 2 and Fuse 35.

Looking little further, The only thing that has me confuesd is the Fuel Gauge. This doesn't connect to the TIPM at all. Sender goes directly to the IC via a Black (ground) and Bark Blue White wires. This would leave me to think the IC itself is the issue.

It says to correctly reset the IC, Unplug the battery - cable for at least min of 5 minutes and reattach. The turn the ignition key on. This forces the IC to relearn the vehicle.

The manual says to Press and hold the trip meter reset then turn the key to "ON position", Then let go of the reset.
All of the lights should light up and the gauges will sweep, stopping at cal points. If any of the lights dont light or the gauges dont sweep thru the cal points and back the IC needs to be replaced.

Make sure not to start the truck or turn the key off, The test will sweep and terminate itself.

 

Dirty, I feel you man. We all know how dealerships are chitty. Ive caught them red handed in replacing things that did not need to be replaced and trying to charge out the azz for it. Ive seen them swap things out just to try to see if they could stumble across the resolution instead of actually troubleshooting it. Hell, i can go out there and replace one thing at a time until I fix it.

And you and I both know then ONLY reason they are blaming the after market gear is because it is something that didnt come with the truck and it is easy to put the blame on something or somewhere else when they cant identify and isolate the issue itself.

But Im with you, if they are so sure it was the TIPM only to replace it with a new one and it still does the same thing, how in the hell can you even come to the customer and ask for payment on something you havent even fixed??????