Okay guys I need some input. I have an 05 2wd Rumble Bee with the hemi motor. I've put on the K&N intake and a flowmaster exhaust. I have just installed a 6" lift, and for now I am running the stock 20's with the 275/55/r20's. Overall this thing is sweet, but I am still lacking in the power department. Specifically, the acceleration is what I am concerned with. I want more TORQUE! More horsepower is great, but it's not my main focus. I have all but ruled out the CHIP option as I don't think they are worth the $400. So now I am researching the super/turbocharger option. I have read other related posts, but they lack definitive peformance gains, they just have hypothetical data. I am also concerned with smog issues as I live in California and smog is a big issue. Warranty is also a concern as I have the 7/70 extended warranty, and I would hate to do anything damaging to the tranny. I read the STS Turbocharger post and it peaked my interest, but $5000 is a lot of money. Most Superchargers are running about the same for the hemi motor, so either way this mod will be expensive if and when I decide to do it.

Any info regarding super/turbochargers or cheaper alternatives for torque gains will be greatly appreciated.
I appologize in advance if this is a redundant and burned out topic.

 

As far a FI goes, a turbo (if anyone makes one for it) is the way to go for max power, but its power you will have to wait for, turbo lag, etc. A SC will give you instant power right off the line with fewer mechanical parts than a turbo but will not make quite as much power as a turbo setup.
While both are expensive, if you seek serious power, they are the only alternatives. You may want to start with headers, pulleys, or any other bolt-ons first. You may even be able to get some work done to the heads (porting, polishing, etc) for a reasonable price and that would also net you decent gains and make FI that much better if you ever go that route.

As for chips, while they dont necessarily give you big gains, they become a necessity on a highly modded trucks. Or at least some sort of computer tuning is to maximize every performance enhancing produt you install.

 

I have an STS turbo in my truck. An 04, QC 4X4, race weight is close to 6000 lbs....

Yeah, that's 3 tons.


This thing feels like a 13 second race car from a little roll.

I also have .456 gears. They help a lot.

 

Anything you do to modify the power plant will void the warranty unless stated otherwise. For example a Jacobs ignition system will not void the warranty but adding a supercharger definitely will. Check with Dodge to see what will void your warranty.

I had a Jeep Cherokee that I used for towing, accordoring to Jeep, anything I did would void the warranty, even adding a better flowing exhaust kit.

 

Nothing can legally void your warranty unless they can prove that the added part cause the malfunction. It is illegal for them to see your intake and say "Your warranty is void". Its the magnusson -moss act or something like that. Now, they can fight you on it but without proof they cannot void your warranty, it all depends on how hard they want to fight you on it.

 

I stand corrected. I was told by the guys at the Jeep Dealer Service dept. that any work that was done would void the warranty, guess he was just being an A-Hole.

Q. Does installing an aftermarket part, automatically void my vehicle factory warranty?

A. NO, According to the Magnusson-Moss Act of 1975 (see below):

The Magnusson-Moss Warranty - Federal Trade Commission Improvement Act of 1975 protects consumers from such fradulent activity by new car dealers. Under this Act, aftermarket equipment that improves performance does not void a vehicle manufacturer's orginial warranty, unless the warranty clearly states the addition of aftermarket equipment automatically voids your vehicle's warrany or if it can be proven that the aftermarket device is the direct cause of the failure. The easiest way to check this is to look in your owner's manual under, "what is not covered". Under Magnusson-Moss Act a dealer must prove, not just vocalize, that aftermarket equipment caused the need for repairs before they can deny warranty coverage. If they cannot prove such claim-or offer an explanation- it is your legal right to demand compliance with the warranty. The Federal Trade Commission (202.326.3128) administers the Magnusson-Moss Act and monitors compliance with warranty law.

 

05Hemi:

You've noted a number of issue, some of which have been adequately addressed. I can shed some light on boosted vehicles, currently having several blown street vehicles, race them, and have owned still others over the last thirty years or more.

First, regarding vehicle inspections, if the system does not have a CARB number--forget it in Kaleeforneea, unless you want to remove and reinstall periodically, most don't--for obvious reasons if you ever install any system.

Now, to the issue of forced-induction... as you've seen, no system is cheap. R&D is a b***h, and potential market is relatively limited. Trust me on this, I've done both super- and turbo-setups from scratch. Tuning alone (after the system is physically designed, engineered, and built) is very time consuming and requires considerable dyno work. This is just so you understand the cost of any given system and what you are really paying for. And, the better sorted the system, the more work that has gone into it. All are NOT created equally, either!

As for which system. Though we use twin-turbos for competition, I recommend superchargers for the street. I've personal experience with the following superchargers: old Paxtons (ball-drive), new Paxtons (gear-drive Novis), Vortechs, Kenne Bell twin-screws, and the Magnussen. If low to mid-range torque is the issue and it usually is on the street I highly recommend the Kenne Bell. It is my current favorite driver in my garage (on my wife's MegaMonster Miata--447hp 302 V/8). The others (all centrificals) are much like a turbo in that they spool up for high-end boost. This is a general statement since with careful sizing and parts mixing and matching, this can be mediated to a degree.

Though we successfully race turbos and make a ton of power with high boost levels (@1100hp from 299ci and 40# boost with an antique, record setting V/8), even the best designed system will have some turbo-lag and on the street I'd take a Maggie or KB EVERY time. The beauty of this is that Kenne Bell is now advertising a system specifically for the 5.7 Hemi! The KB has other benefits, but to go into those is far beyond the scope of your post.

Hope this helps. If you have other specific questions regarding boosted engine questions, feel free to contact me personally. Btw, I do not represent nor sell any of these parts--no vested interest, just lots of experience. We build antique, blown, racing engines only and use whatever blower type and brand the customer wants--making almost anything "work" if the customer is determined/crazy enough!

All the best.

 

When you get the bigger tires on one of the best things to mantain your power will be to regear the diff. If you have 3.73 gears and add 3inch taller tires you should go with 4.11 or 4.56 gears.