New Diff Cover
I'm having my differential oils and tranfer case oil changed today and I bought a Trans-Dapt rear diff cover kit. Now the repair shop just called and said the bolts provided didn't come with lock washers. Do I need lock washers???
Ain't never used a lock washer on a diff cover in my life. Besides the RTV sealant will squeeze over enough onto the threads from being pressed on and expanding to act like lock-tite product would anyway. Them bolts shouldn't budge.
Also, the fastest way to strip threads is to put a lock washer on a bolt that's sitting in something that is heated and cooled. Seen MANY a guy strip out the threads of an aluminum block when using lock washers on header bolts because he's too lazy to re-torque once or twice a year. Something has got to give when heating and cooling is expanding metal. Wouldn't be as bad with a diff, since it's not aluminum but I'd rather have to check bolts on occasion then re-tap threads. I'd be finding me a new shop...
Also, the fastest way to strip threads is to put a lock washer on a bolt that's sitting in something that is heated and cooled. Seen MANY a guy strip out the threads of an aluminum block when using lock washers on header bolts because he's too lazy to re-torque once or twice a year. Something has got to give when heating and cooling is expanding metal. Wouldn't be as bad with a diff, since it's not aluminum but I'd rather have to check bolts on occasion then re-tap threads. I'd be finding me a new shop...
Last edited by HammerZ71; Sep 16, 2010 at 01:30 PM.
Ain't never used a lock washer on a diff cover in my life. Besides the RTV sealant will squeeze over enough onto the threads from being pressed on and expanding to act like lock-tite product would anyway. Them bolts shouldn't budge.
Also, the fastest way to strip threads is to put a lock washer on a bolt that's sitting in something that is heated and cooled. Seen MANY a guy strip out the threads of an aluminum block when using lock washers on header bolts because he's too lazy to re-torque once or twice a year. Something has got to give when heating and cooling is expanding metal. Wouldn't be as bad with a diff, since it's not aluminum but I'd rather have to check bolts on occasion then re-tap threads. I'd be finding me a new shop...
Also, the fastest way to strip threads is to put a lock washer on a bolt that's sitting in something that is heated and cooled. Seen MANY a guy strip out the threads of an aluminum block when using lock washers on header bolts because he's too lazy to re-torque once or twice a year. Something has got to give when heating and cooling is expanding metal. Wouldn't be as bad with a diff, since it's not aluminum but I'd rather have to check bolts on occasion then re-tap threads. I'd be finding me a new shop...
I never used a gasket for a rear diff, ever. They break down and deteriorate and eventiually leak. I've always used RTV sealant. The small amount of rtv sealant that covers over the holes is what I use as loctite just as Hammer described.
How many foot pounds?
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The Factory diff Bolts have machined angled fins built in that act like a lock washer when torqued properly as well as the Mopar chrome ones Pt# 1-P4452787.
I always make my own gasket each time off the roll especially when running a chrome cover. I find the Grey thinner type Felpro holds up well as the (Mr.G) Cork ones will seep through over time as dirtydog said. If RTV'd Correctly the Bolts will be OK.
I prefer to Torque em by feel rather than use the light recommended Ft/lbs especially in the front alloy 205 housing which can strip easy.
I always make my own gasket each time off the roll especially when running a chrome cover. I find the Grey thinner type Felpro holds up well as the (Mr.G) Cork ones will seep through over time as dirtydog said. If RTV'd Correctly the Bolts will be OK.
I prefer to Torque em by feel rather than use the light recommended Ft/lbs especially in the front alloy 205 housing which can strip easy.







