Some of you may remember a few weeks ago I had an electrical issue. It's HERE incase anyone wanted to go through everything regarding my problems. ('08 w/9kmi 30mo. old)
The Instrument Cluster(IC) was bad.

**I do still have an odd issue I need help on. The old/bad IC had this type of scrolling sound, almost like a register or slot machine ratcheting. It did it for a brief moment like it was winding up every 1 or 2minutes. I swear I heard this new one do it not once but twice within the 20min I was inside fooling around resetting the lock/unlock features. Anyone experience or notice the same noise? Sounds like it's coming from the back left of the IC. Maybe my issue isn't reolved and there's still a short somewhere and this IC will go bad after some time???



rant.... Just installed the new one which cost me $285+tax because they wouldn't warranty it. Not to mention I told them I wanted to remove it myself and I didn't want them touching anything unless it was going to be warrantied. They touched it anyways and decided to charge me $190 for something I could have done myself. They left my whole dash and column apart because the service writer called me up at school and stated what was up. I told him what I just told you already.... he said it would cost me more to have my interior put back together!?? WTF? Book time for a cluster replacement is .7hrs which includes installing a new one. Mechanic told me 1hr to test the IC. Why I gotta pay all 1.7hrs for only half the work? Total BS.

I'm trying to figure out what to do at this point as far as handling this warranty issue if I should even bother pursuing because I'm not completely sure if it was my fault or not? They told me that if I return the vehicle completely back to stock and eliminate any other DTC codes, I would be covered if it wasn't due to my negligence. I straight up asked the guy if the IC was bad, will they warranty it. He never gave me a definitive answer so they were yanking me from the beginning. They even led me to believe they would warranty it because they insisted I buy H13 bulbs to put into the sockets and make sure it turned the 3codes that popped up because Chrysler would ask about that??? Dunno how true it was, but I'm pissed that I paid $25 for bulbs just to satisfy their own needs. I feel like bringing the bulbs into their showroom and stomping on them and leaving the mess there for them to clean up.
They kept sayin.."Return your truck completely back to stock". WTF for? It was a total waste. I shoulda just told them to diagnose it the way it was if I thought I would end up paying for this. I know why, the mechanics are retarded there and don't know real life diagnosis without their little scanner tool.
Ohh, get this. They said they were doing me a favor by not charging me for the TIPM they installed which wasn't bad. Service writer insisted it was only part of the problem. I wanted to hit him square across the teeth..through the phone....lol
This is classic Dealership not honoring warranty claims just because I had an aftermarket radio and HID headlights which they couldn't even fathom how it was possible to run separate circuits but still be controlled by the headlight switch...deerrrrr effin Morons. The mechanic was clueless when I was explaining how it was COMPLETELY separate and that the codes were being thrown due to no bulbs in their sockets.
Here's where my problem lies. The IC failure was within the Headlight circuit and I had no 4-ways or directionals. They found a screw that went into the multi-function switch and between that screw and the HID's, they figured they had solid ground to go on. Well, don't ya know I have wipers and directionals even with that screw still in the housing. Which by the way, I checked out and there was no metal exposed or touching, only plastic.
Everything I had in the truck say...6months ago is in the truck now and it's A-O.K. so it's clearly not my stuff(beside's, everything is isolated..duh..I'm not stupid...lol)


For those that are curious, mileage is stored in the IC itself NOT the bcm, ecm, fcm or tipm. Mechanic had to inspect and record mileage down prior to ordering it and that is the mileage that it came with. Dealer can't even mess with the mileage. Ohh, and I put 171miles on the truck bewteen the inspection and getting the new one so I saved 171miles. yippeee, only cost me a grand total of $600beans to save some mileage.

 

I just got inside my truck and opened up a study book for a bit. I waited for the sound and I heard it when the Dome light turned off. The mileage screen looked like it had very faint red pixel lines across the screen. very faint though. I waited until the screen went completely black and then when I opened my door slowly and the dome light was kicking on, it did it again. I wonder if anyone else's does it? At this point it kinda appears normal. Like it's a timer counter clicking??

ALL 2006+ Guys please try this out, Will prob work for 2005-pior??? ...... it'll absorb about 5min of your life..lol
Get in your truck and wait for the dome light to turn off. Then open your door with your ear close to the odometer. See if you hear the noise. Also, when lights go out, you press the overhead lamp. This one is tricky because it makes a rather loud double click which masks the odometer noise. Listen closely. respond back here. Thanks

 

05 and I don't get that. No sound at all except my door opening and closing. Hopefully 06 person will chime in here.

 

just tried it no noise man.

 

Thanks for atleast trying. i know the 06+ IC's are diff ...ahh man...

hey big, it's not that loud at all. Gotta be in a quiet area to hear it and you can't have your keys in the ignition either or the dinger will sound. No key in ign.

 

i live in the middle of a corn field, not gonna get much quieter lol. didn't have keys in ing. hell they were in the house.

 

I just did some searching. These guys have the same problem.

Also, I found This TSB for GM vehicles:
Condition
Some customers may comment on a noise coming from the instrument panel cluster (IPC) while driving or on initial start-up. Instrument clusters may contain stepper motor gages that can make noise during the following conditions:

Cause




A few Durango owners exhibited some interior light issue's and later find there vehicle on fire! IC fire! Ohh, no. I'll take noisey stepper motors please...lol

 

lmao, right. FIRE BAD!!!!!! no noise in mine but the tach is retarted. usually doesn't work, when it does it jumps up to 5500 and then flies back down when the truck shifts, if it doesn't flip all the way around and rest on the underside of the pin.

 

Dammit man. I would be inclined to shoot off a letter to corporate office about your doubts, complaints and issues with the dealership. I recently traded my Droid X at the Verizon store for the Samsung Fascinate only to get home that evening and find I got no signal. It cost me 35 to change devices (restocking fee). I took it back the NEXT morning and asked for my other phone back and they said they no longer had it. They never could explain where it went from the closing the prior night before to the next opening day. Anyway, it cost me ANOTHER 35 to change back to the Droid X which they had to order. I was pissed and made it aware I didnt feel I should have to pay another 35 and a total of 70 for something that didnt work. But they wouldnt order a device for me unless i paid. What could I do?

But when i got back to my office I shot off a letter to the VZW CEO (email listed in the About Us section on their site) and the next day i got a call from an executive rep who kindly refunded my 70 bux.

So IDK man, its worth a try to send an email off.