lights dim while operating windows
Weed, but how would almost EVERYONES truck do this? I know that for my body lift I had to raise my ground and I sanded before attaching it...
and dirty, the cap will not feed backwards will it? I didnt mean it was hooked by two wires, one complete ground to the amp and one complete hot to the battery, i was just trying to simplify it for the sake of conversation
my point was that people dont take their battery cables off, hook them to the cap, and then run a new set of cables from the cap to the battery. Between the battery and the system.
and dirty, the cap will not feed backwards will it? I didnt mean it was hooked by two wires, one complete ground to the amp and one complete hot to the battery, i was just trying to simplify it for the sake of conversation
my point was that people dont take their battery cables off, hook them to the cap, and then run a new set of cables from the cap to the battery. Between the battery and the system.
I would say everyone has the issue. So far only 06/07 guys per this thread. i never have had this issue from stock and i still dont have it. Granted I have made electrical upgrades but again, i never had it as stock. In my mind, I just do not see it as being a voltage issue as much as i see it being a ground issue. However, tracing it is another story.
Bigger batteries and alts? No. I dont think that is the solution.
bigtigga84 - 2006
06 Ram5.7 - 2006
Matt99 - 2007
BamaRam1500 - 2007
LinerJoe - 2007
Bigger batteries and alts? No. I dont think that is the solution.
bigtigga84 - 2006
06 Ram5.7 - 2006
Matt99 - 2007
BamaRam1500 - 2007
LinerJoe - 2007
Weed, but how would almost EVERYONES truck do this? I know that for my body lift I had to raise my ground and I sanded before attaching it...
and dirty, the cap will not feed backwards will it? I didnt mean it was hooked by two wires, one complete ground to the amp and one complete hot to the battery, i was just trying to simplify it for the sake of conversation
my point was that people dont take their battery cables off, hook them to the cap, and then run a new set of cables from the cap to the battery. Between the battery and the system.
and dirty, the cap will not feed backwards will it? I didnt mean it was hooked by two wires, one complete ground to the amp and one complete hot to the battery, i was just trying to simplify it for the sake of conversation
my point was that people dont take their battery cables off, hook them to the cap, and then run a new set of cables from the cap to the battery. Between the battery and the system.
When hooking up anything electrical in parallel.....It doesn't matter what is hooked up first as every component sees the exact same amount of current/charge/draw. So, yes, he could hook up the batery cable to the cap first and then to the battery. It would be pointless to go through all of that work though because it would provide nearly the same amount of capacitance as hooking it up in the trunk minus the resistance within the line that feeds the cap.
Window motors draw ALOT of current from the electrical system(40-60A). When the vehicle is running, ALL electrical power is provide directly from the alternator. The battery is simply a reserve for when the vehicle is not running and to start it.
Now, the windows aren't isolated by their own fuse in the fusebox, but rather relayed through the TIPM the same as the headlights are. So, when you have a canbus power supply that the computer is dividing amongst the individual feeds, you are going to have some voltage drop within the combined circuits. So, if you isolated the windows completely from all the other canbus circuits, you most likely won't experience any dimming with your lights.
If your dim is moderate to severe then you may have a gorund issue such as Weedahoe stated, but I'm gonna venture out and say that your system is normal because of the above stated.
*sorry for the tons of mispelled and grammatical errors on my previous post. My netbook skips lots of keys and is terrible when it is warm. It just can't keep up with my fast finger pecking..lol I have to get it warrantied or something cuz it's annoying as heck.
Last edited by dirtydog; Oct 11, 2010 at 11:27 AM.
I think the whole cap thing is going past the realm of this thread, but if the cap didn't feed backwards as you say, then they would be useless in most applications. Most caps are routed basically like a T in the power line and are dead-ended. Since they are ran in parallel, the cap does not see this as going backwards.
When hooking up anything electrical in parallel.....It doesn't matter what is hooked up first as every component sees the exact same amount of current/charge/draw. So, yes, he could hook up the batery cable to the cap first and then to the battery. It would be pointless to go through all of that work though because it would provide nearly the same amount of capacitance as hooking it up in the trunk minus the resistance within the line that feeds the cap.
Window motors draw ALOT of current from the electrical system(40-60A). When the vehicle is running, ALL electrical power is provide directly from the alternator. The battery is simply a reserve for when the vehicle is not running and to start it.
Now, the windows aren't isolated by their own fuse in the fusebox, but rather relayed through the TIPM the same as the headlights are. So, when you have a canbus power supply that the computer is dividing amongst the individual feeds, you are going to have some voltage drop within the combined circuits. So, if you isolated the windows completely from all the other canbus circuits, you most likely won't experience any dimming with your lights.
If your dim is moderate to severe then you may have a gorund issue such as Weedahoe stated, but I'm gonna venture out and say that your system is normal because of the above stated.
*sorry for the tons of mispelled and grammatical errors on my previous post. My netbook skips lots of keys and is terrible when it is warm. It just can't keep up with my fast finger pecking..lol I have to get it warrantied or something cuz it's annoying as heck.
When hooking up anything electrical in parallel.....It doesn't matter what is hooked up first as every component sees the exact same amount of current/charge/draw. So, yes, he could hook up the batery cable to the cap first and then to the battery. It would be pointless to go through all of that work though because it would provide nearly the same amount of capacitance as hooking it up in the trunk minus the resistance within the line that feeds the cap.
Window motors draw ALOT of current from the electrical system(40-60A). When the vehicle is running, ALL electrical power is provide directly from the alternator. The battery is simply a reserve for when the vehicle is not running and to start it.
Now, the windows aren't isolated by their own fuse in the fusebox, but rather relayed through the TIPM the same as the headlights are. So, when you have a canbus power supply that the computer is dividing amongst the individual feeds, you are going to have some voltage drop within the combined circuits. So, if you isolated the windows completely from all the other canbus circuits, you most likely won't experience any dimming with your lights.
If your dim is moderate to severe then you may have a gorund issue such as Weedahoe stated, but I'm gonna venture out and say that your system is normal because of the above stated.
*sorry for the tons of mispelled and grammatical errors on my previous post. My netbook skips lots of keys and is terrible when it is warm. It just can't keep up with my fast finger pecking..lol I have to get it warrantied or something cuz it's annoying as heck.
Thats not to say it will ever get resolved either though....LOL
As for the netbook, quit making excuses bro!! What will ou do when we no loner have netbooks and everything is iPads and Android Tablets?

Seriously though, try getting Google Chrome as your browser as it does spell check as you go and can correct it for you as well.
when I turn on my headlights my radio gets really staticy, almost like engine noise....I have HIDs so there is no dim in the headlights with the electric windows but if I have my heads on and roll down the windows the radio gets to where i cant even hear a voice. Thats what makes me think it is a power issue
So weed, you are saying the stock ground is not good enough?
So weed, you are saying the stock ground is not good enough?
Lots of guys have EMI/EFI issues due to HID ballasts emitting the "noise". There are lots of threads on it.
I wont promise you that it is a ground issue. I just brought it up because everyone was brainstorming in power issues and I was trying to think outside the box.
I wont promise you that it is a ground issue. I just brought it up because everyone was brainstorming in power issues and I was trying to think outside the box.








