Hi all, wanted to talk to other Dodge Ram owners for thier advice.
I know what the owners manual says but i want to know what the real world thinks.

My 06' Quad Cab 4x4 Automatic Hemi Ram just turned 72,000 miles and knock on wood, other some minor issues, it has been trouble free. But with winter coming, i want to have some long overdue work done. As information, it has never been used for towing and never hauls anything. Never been off road either. Strictly an everyday driver. It has no performance mods at all. Everything is bone stock.

I plan on doing the following:

Front and rear Differential fluid change (Never been done)
Tranmission fluid/filter change (Never been done)
Spark Plugs (Never been done)

I am having the work done by a mechanic i know. Any reccomendations for type of gear lube and tranny fluid? Or just go with the Dodge Spec stuff? Special spark plugs?

Should is change the transfer case fluid?

What about a coolant flush? I was thinking of doing top and bottom radiator hoses, thermostat and then fresh coolant. Should i do it now before winter? or wait till the spring? Any advice on a coolant brand and mix? Or factory Dodge spec?

I also would like to do new shocks all around. Any advice for brand? I know Billstein's are great, but i have heard that Monroe is a good choice in my everyday driver application. Thoughts?

Any other items you suggest i adress at this mileage? I did the fan belt and battery last month.

I had Mag Hytec diff covers and the deep tranny pan on my 01' Cummins. Thinking of adding them to this truck. Anybody know what model rear end and tranny this thing has?

Just want to make this truck last for a LONG time. Thanks in advance!

 

Nobody?

 

I'm shocked that no one has given you feedback on this. I'm in the exact same boat as you on this. I have a 2006 with hemi 4x4 and planning on servicing the transmission, transfer case, and differentials tomorrow. I will share the information I have found about this.

Yes, replace the fluids and filters for the transmission. These are the fluids that should be used.


front diff...75w90 Synthetic 2 bottles
rear diff....75w-140 Synthetic 2.25 bottles or 2 bottle and 1tube of modifier
trans...8qts of ATF+4 your dropping the pan only or 17qts if your doing a flush.
Transfer case...ATF+4 I believe it's 3qts you'll need.

**Limited-Slip Rear Axles require the addition of 118 ml (4 oz.) MOPAR® Limited Slip Additive.


I would also like to know if it's worth it to do the coolant and sparks at this point. Hopefully someone has some feedback for us. I'm also wondering if the LSD for our years 2006-2008 is prone to failure like previous years. If so, we should thoroughly check our clips and teeth in the differential at this time.

 

I would do the coolant as well if it hasn't been done, use a descaling product and run it through your system first then reverse flush and get all the shyt out. As for coolant brand/mix any type will work i usually go with a 60:40 coolant distilled waterr mix cause it's cold up here. If your thermostat isn't broken don't change it, often enough you will get a faulty one to replace in it. Rancho makes really nice shocks i would say better than monroe and not much more expensive. Any type of gear lube will work for your diffs, i recommend systhetic. I would go heavier for hotter climates. Make sure you use atf 4+ in the tranny and transfercase. for spark plugs you can't go wrong with champion copper they are reletively inexpensive and reliable. Its always a good idea to inspec your diffs when you have the cover off. Even iff they are not prone to a certain failure it doen't mean that they won't. While the cover plate is off check the bearings and seals for any abnormal looking wear.

 

Well I have an 06 and I have yet to do the maintenance that you are talking about on it. but i have, however, done a coolant flush and spark plugs on other vehicles. its really easy and probably pretty good for your truck if its pushing 75k. I have a 4.7 so i dont know how different the hemi is set up, but the spark plugs are easy to change out. i would go with some Bosch Platinum+4 plugs.
as far as the coolant flush goes... its some what time consuming only because you have to run your engine for ten minutes (twice). but other than that it is super easy and great to do if you are planning on keeping your rig until dies

 

I just put new Billstein's on my Truck.What a difference, from th stock junk Dodge put on
It was an easy weekender job too.

 

I'd also check the brake fluid.
Look to see if its a nice clear colour.
Even if it is, after 70+k miles, with the fluid being hydroscopic etc, I'd flush the lot by bleeding all 4 corners. The fluid breaks down over time due to this inherant property and braking performance degrades.
But, make sure you don't push the brake pedal all the way down to the boards when you've cracked the bleed nipple. I've read many times that the servo booster internal linkages might have rust on them, because you don't push the brake pedal down to the boards everyda.The linkages build up rust and when you force the pedal all the way to the bottom, rust can be dragged into seals and damage them in the servo.
It's something I've read about more than a few times and thought it wise precaution to take on-board, when I do mine again this winter.
I'd also whip off the brake calipers and check on brake pad condition and also make sure the caliper sliders and bolts and caliper pistons are nice and free to move and clear of dirt and debris etc. A good working brake system when it's winter, is a must I feel. You don't want a sticky caliper "grabbing" on you when your on ice and applying brakes cautiously, slewing you across the road???? Owch!!!!
A good application of grease on the e-brake cables so they won't stick and also a service of the e-brake shoes etc, is also a good idea and then the whole brake system has been thoroughly checked and overhauled for winter.
Just a thought?
Al.

 

I did all of this maintenance this summer, and here is what info that I gathered before completing the work.

30K miles:

Trans Fluid - ATF4+ ONLY replace the flat pick up filter (the valve body filter is good for 60-75K) You will need approx 8 Qts for the pan drop method, or about 13-15 for a full flush. I added a Mag-Hytech pan on my o7 and it required an additional 2-2.5 qts of ATF.

http://www.mag-hytec.com/store/index...products_id=88

Front Diff - you will need 75W-90 gear oil, no friction modifier, and you can run conventional if you want. You will need approx 2 quarts

Rear Diff - You will need SYNTHETIC 75W-140, the manual is specific on this and states that syn must be used. Depending on the brand of synthetic you may also need friction modifier. Brands such as royal purple and Valvoline have the additive it in already. you will need approx 2.5-3 quarts While you have the cover off the differential inspect it to look for any abnormal wear/scuffing and make sure to check the magnet for any large metal shavings and or pieces. I also added a mag-Hytec diff cover at this time and it required an additional ~2 qts of oil.

http://www.mag-hytec.com/store/index...products_id=26

Spark Plugs - may people have documented that there is little to no gain in running platinum or iridium $5-8 a piece plugs. Just run a copper core plug like the stock champions or NGK's and be done with it. the truck was designed for copper plugs, and they are also the most economical ($1.75 ea), when you're buying 16 of them $6 each for platinum is a pretty heavy hit to the wallet for little to no gain.

Transfer Case - ATF4+ approx 3 qts. pretty easy, just make sure that you remove the fill plug before you remove the drain plug.

best of luck OP

nateroach

 

Thank you to all who answered. It was worth the wait. I am going to pick up all those lubes and make sure they go in.

My local repair shop said they use a Valvoline Synthetic Tranny Fluid that is approved for all brands of trannies. That does not sit well with me. I am just going to bring all my own lubes and stay and wait to make sure they get used. If i still had a home with a garage and place to do all this stuff, i would be doing it myself!.

I am going to do the coolant flush/change myself and do the top and bottom radiator hose. Is there any reason i cannot use good old Prestone in this engine? I know GM was big on their DEXCOOL stuff, but that was so you could go longer between coolant changes as far as i could tell. Is using a coolant other then what Dodge says going to cause any actual harm to anything?

Ill keep you posted.

 

I don't think coolant matters as much as using the right ATF for tranny.. However, my truck is at the shop now getting this stuff done. I requested ATF+4 and I heard something similar about how they are using a universal synthetic fluid. I heard Valvoline ATF+4 is completely fine in our vehicles, so I asked if thats what they were using. He said no, that they are using Wolfshead. WTF is Wolfshead!? It does say ATF+4 and mentions Dodge/Chrysler among others. Here are the specs for it, I hope I am okay with this stuff but i'm already considering changing to the mopar ATF+4..

http://www.wolfshead.com/specsheets/...lsynthetic.pdf

As long as it has the right specs (ATF+4) it should be good right!?