no i mean actually testing it. i read on dt u can have the truck running and remove the pos side of the battery. if the truck dies then its the alt if it doesnt then its good

 

Thats how older cars used to be but I dont think the truck does the same. Ask Dirty, he explained it to me once but I forgot since.

 

have you had the exhaust welded back up yet ?

how aggresive is the cam, may need a custum tune done ?

maybe take it out for a spin to see how it acts ? try to narrow it down

 

First check for voltage drop to esdure there are no faults in the wiring from the battery to the alternator. This can be done by touching your DMM on the battery + terminal and alternator + terminal with the engine running. Doesn't matter which way you hook up the neg.pos for the DMM, but you want to go from pos batt to pos alt.. have your DMM set to volts. You should read below .2v for a low resistance lead.
Then, measure your battery terminals with everything hooked up. A typical battery is just under 12v when the ignition is off, so when idling, this should be a few volts higher (13.8v-14.4v) if you can read anything over 12v, your alternator is working. If you get fluctating readings above and below 12v, then your alternator is failing, but typically they are working or not.

 

^^ good explanation there dirty. you can also load test with the DMM on the pos and neg battery terms and have some one turn on your headlights. your battery voltage might drop momentarily, but if it doesn't come back up rather quickly your looking at a dead alt or one near it's way out.

nateroach

 

well i started the truck and gave it gas. removed the pos side of the battery and the truck still ran. so i guess i can rule out the alt. now?? got a p0174 saying fuel lean but i am sure thats bc of the exhaust not being down...

 

Ohh the woes of modding....lol

p0174 could cause rough idling. Some possibilities include but are not limited to(man that sounds so commercialized..lol) dirty IAT sensor, coolant temp sensor, 02 sensor, your exhaust like you stated.
I would hook up your exhaust and get that taken care of unlesss you need to bring it down to a shop for welding?
You can test your 02 sensors as well. Read the resistive elements within the sensor to detect it's faults.
Cleaning your IAT isn't hard. You can chec your temp sensor as well, unplug it and read the resistance across the terminals as the engine gets warm. You'll prob set off a code unplugging it though. No biggie.

 

i just need the exhaust done. but dont feel comfortable driving it to the shop...

 

OPEN HEADERS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! WOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOT!!! LEAVE THEM OPEN!!!!! lol cant wait till i get my power pack...muuuuaahahaa! $500 saved so far. http://www.hughesengines.com/Index/p...5&partid=26112

 

Silver, I was thinking you might have an intake leak...but then I remembered this thing doesn't have a MAF. Still thinking VWs.

Sinus, the last price I saw for tunes w/SCT tuner was $600. HemiFever I am told does good work with tunes.