RV Tow question
I know there is stuff around here I can search for and probably figure out the mathematical answer to my question. But I wanted to see what people's practical experience was vs. the math. I just sold my RV a couple of months ago but have had it since before I bought my truck. It was an ultra-lite model and I never had any issues towing it and never even pushed the envelope as far as max weights go.
I am looking at a possible very good deal on a used RV that has a dry weight of 7150 pounds. I have an 04 hemi 4x4 quad cab with the 20" wheel package. Does anyone else with a similar truck routinely pull something that heavy? I realize I have to add the weight for anything at all that I put in the camper. I wouldn't be pulling it very far, maybe a couple of hours, or very often because we plan to set it up somewhere in the summer and leave it a month or so. And we'd be taking a separate vehicle to haul our golf cart so we could transport some of the stuff in the other vehicle instead of putting the weight in the RV. We wouldn't ever be filling the potable water tank because we'd have hookups at the campground so that's a few hundred pounds I wouldn't have to be concerned with adding. Mainly just clothes, food, etc.
I am looking at a possible very good deal on a used RV that has a dry weight of 7150 pounds. I have an 04 hemi 4x4 quad cab with the 20" wheel package. Does anyone else with a similar truck routinely pull something that heavy? I realize I have to add the weight for anything at all that I put in the camper. I wouldn't be pulling it very far, maybe a couple of hours, or very often because we plan to set it up somewhere in the summer and leave it a month or so. And we'd be taking a separate vehicle to haul our golf cart so we could transport some of the stuff in the other vehicle instead of putting the weight in the RV. We wouldn't ever be filling the potable water tank because we'd have hookups at the campground so that's a few hundred pounds I wouldn't have to be concerned with adding. Mainly just clothes, food, etc.
5th wheel or pull-type trailer?
I'd say you could sneak by with a 5th of that size for short pulls, but a pull type would put 700 pounds on your ball-hitch (prior to a weight distribution hitch to unload the rear axle and transfer load to the front.)
I personally loathe weight distributing hitches,
A saying the farmers here use, is "if you have a big wagon to pull, you hitch it to a horse, not to a dog".
I'd say you could sneak by with a 5th of that size for short pulls, but a pull type would put 700 pounds on your ball-hitch (prior to a weight distribution hitch to unload the rear axle and transfer load to the front.)
I personally loathe weight distributing hitches,
A saying the farmers here use, is "if you have a big wagon to pull, you hitch it to a horse, not to a dog".
It's a towable travel trailer and I would be using a weight distribution hitch. I know that my model truck has a tow rating greater than 8000 lbs but I'm also told I have to subtract some from that because of the 20" wheel package due to the tires (I'm running the Goodyear HP's just like the originals) that are typically available for those wheels not being as capable for towing as tires for 17" wheels.
I believe, at 7150 lbs, I'm still under my tow weight rating but I'm not sure just how much. I was just curious to see if others with a similar setup as mine are towing this type of weight with no issues. Even if just under my weight ratings, I still wouldn't be towing often and/or long distances but I really have no need to do that anyway. I also usually avoid interstates when towing because my gas mileage sucks even worse when towing at those speeds. At 55 - 60 mph, I can usually maintain a decent mpg when towing and it's nowhere near as stressful.
I believe, at 7150 lbs, I'm still under my tow weight rating but I'm not sure just how much. I was just curious to see if others with a similar setup as mine are towing this type of weight with no issues. Even if just under my weight ratings, I still wouldn't be towing often and/or long distances but I really have no need to do that anyway. I also usually avoid interstates when towing because my gas mileage sucks even worse when towing at those speeds. At 55 - 60 mph, I can usually maintain a decent mpg when towing and it's nowhere near as stressful.
The reduction is not due to the tires themselves but rather because the 33" diameter of the 20" wheel/tire combo. That reduces tow by 1,000lbs.
If you have 3:55 gears, your max towable weight is 7600lbs. it's 8500lbs with 3:92's.
Now, that ONLY accounts for a 150lb driver and nothing else. people and cargo add up reeeeeeally quick.
I'd say you would def want a good trans cooler and certainly a Superchips tuner for more advanced transmission support before towing that much weight.
If you have 3:55 gears, your max towable weight is 7600lbs. it's 8500lbs with 3:92's.
Now, that ONLY accounts for a 150lb driver and nothing else. people and cargo add up reeeeeeally quick.
I'd say you would def want a good trans cooler and certainly a Superchips tuner for more advanced transmission support before towing that much weight.
man, I towed 2 pallets of shingles on a tandem axle steel pipe trailer the other day, I dont know what it ended up being but had to be around 7 or 8k lbs...and that was with my 4.7 lol
Im sure it was illegal and dangerous or w/e but I cant see pulling a 7k trailer with a WDH and a hemi being that bad other than gas mileage
Im sure it was illegal and dangerous or w/e but I cant see pulling a 7k trailer with a WDH and a hemi being that bad other than gas mileage
man, I towed 2 pallets of shingles on a tandem axle steel pipe trailer the other day, I dont know what it ended up being but had to be around 7 or 8k lbs...and that was with my 4.7 lol
Im sure it was illegal and dangerous or w/e but I cant see pulling a 7k trailer with a WDH and a hemi being that bad other than gas mileage
Im sure it was illegal and dangerous or w/e but I cant see pulling a 7k trailer with a WDH and a hemi being that bad other than gas mileage
It's not that the Hemi doesn't have the power to pull that type of weight, it's the fact that if he only has 3:55 gears with 33" rubber, the transmission sees TONS of heat since the converter will be slipping much more,. Not to mention the engine will have a hard time maintaining the optimal engine rpm to pull the load with ease. it will almost defeat the power of the Hemi and make it feel like a 6cyl.
Last edited by dirtydog; Oct 19, 2010 at 12:56 AM.
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You can do it, just not 24/7. Take it easy on the skinny pedal and you'll be fine. I've heard the 2500 tranny cooler bolts up to the 1500 and it's much bigger. Tranny temp gauge is a good idea, this will be the weak link. x2 on the tuner, that's a great idea and should help the transmission as well.
Well, I have a 5th wheel weighing in at 5800lbs completely empty and prior to the bedroom remodel. Loaded and headed down the road = right at 7000lbs.
The weight is different with the 5th. Distribution is more on the trailer than the truck and the weight is right over the axle. 10.5 MPG towing through the hills of MO. mostly at 70MPH. gotta get down those hills to go easy on the engine getting back up. I felt way better about towing this with my 2007 then I did with my 1998.
3.55 gears in the 2007.
I had 3.90 gears in the 1998.
Travel trailers are WAY different. They get squirrelly. I'd never tow anything but 5th or Goose.
The weight is different with the 5th. Distribution is more on the trailer than the truck and the weight is right over the axle. 10.5 MPG towing through the hills of MO. mostly at 70MPH. gotta get down those hills to go easy on the engine getting back up. I felt way better about towing this with my 2007 then I did with my 1998.
3.55 gears in the 2007.
I had 3.90 gears in the 1998.
Travel trailers are WAY different. They get squirrelly. I'd never tow anything but 5th or Goose.
Last edited by pjordan4477; Oct 20, 2010 at 09:28 AM.







