You mean anyone Else?
I don't know what your looking for man. i could post up and say that it's your driverside tires pressures that are low and causing the problem, doesn't mean it will fix your solution.
All of the reccomendations above are the correct one's and i think you have your vision on the right part!
Sometimes someone else may not be around to have an identical problem and you need to find it yourself. That's the crappy part of diagnostics. yeah it is nice to not have to go fishing for stuff that isn't broken, but that's not always the case.
This is the problem. Pulling the bottom off doesn't allow you access to ALL of the doors. There is another door.... so i have read....

This is the other door. even though you don't have dual climate control it's there and in order to access it, you ned to take the ENTIRE dash apart to remove the air box since it's buried up inside the dash. again, from what i have read and from experience with other vehicles. Now, you Might be able to see it looking through the vents with a flashlight???

Here is what i dug up....

(statements from online users with direct relationship to your problem):

22yr veteran mechanic:
it will need a new heater housing upper box and a new mode door -- door is broken
User:
there is a door that was designed for dual climate control inside the dash....even if you may not have dual climate control you still have the door for it and it fails...it takes at least 8 hours as you have to take almost the whole dash out to get at it.

Now, that was one story. Another I found a direct related problem that the guy replaced the heater core and solved his issue's. He stated that Both heater hoses felt the same temp..lol how coincidentally convenient!

At this point If you are certain all your doors are working properly, I would say you need to replace your heater core!

 

If I came off as being an a$$ I'm sorry, as it was not my intention. Without all of the suggestions I wouldn't have a clue where to begin. I appreciate the help.

I went ahead this morning and did the muratic acid backflush of the heater core. And guess what... Now the driver side is toasty warm, and the passenger side is coller now. It sounds like ill be replacing a heater core soon. I'm okay with it for now because atleast the heat is on my side now.

As for the engine temp not getting as hot as it used to, I am putting in a different thermostat that is a mopar one. The operating temp problem started with the new thermostat, so hopefully this will work and maybe even fix my heat problem too. (I know, long shot but a guy can hope.)

Thanks again guys

 

No, no you weren't. I wasn't trying to portray you as such either, so I'm sorry if that was the case.

Glad to hear you found the problem. I thought you said you did a flushed already? I guess I overlooked your "water flush". So it seems you have a bit of corrosion up inside there. Yeah, it'll need to be replaced eventually.
As for the truck not getting hot as usual...Is this at operating temp? Maybe your sensor is failing? just throwing out ideas at this point.

 

I did a water flush a few days ago, but that didnt do anything. I did the acid flush today, and thats when i got some results.

As for the truck not getting as hot, yes i made a picture on MS Paint of my gauge. The needles are portraying the temp at full operating temp. The needle was always closest to that center hash, almost straight up and down, but since the new stat was put in it runs significantly cooler.

Where is the needle on your gauge when your truck is up to operating temp?

 

That depends on the stat you have in the truck. Normally with a 203* it is 12 o'clock

I have a 180 so mine is about 11am

 

Couldnt it also be 11 pm?

 

Yeah, I guess it had BETTER be 11PM shouldnt it? Good catch.

 

Just wanted to update on the issue of my truck not getting up to operating temperature. I replaced the thermostat that I got from AdvanceAuto with a Mopar one from my dodge dealer and it works perfectly now.

I dont know if it was a packaging error by Advance Auto, because my receipt and the box that the stat came in both said 195, but the stat itself didnt say anything on it. The mopar one said 195 but it allows the engine to get warmer, thus giving me much better heat.

In conclusion, Ive learned that heat on the passenger side but no the drivers side is one of two things.
-broken/stripped blend door
-clogged/damaged heater core

To check the blend doors remove the bottom half of the dash to gain access to the levers, and the actuator. You can move the doors manually after disconecting the actuator. When moving the levers, you will be able to tell if the door is moving with the lever, or is just spinning in the door reciever because it is stripped.

To unclug the heater core, here is the process i took.

-disconnected both heater hoses from the engine and put the hose that is the input to the heater core in a old washer fluid bottle, just something to catch all the coolant.
-I then used compressed air on the hose that is normally the return from the heater core to blow out all coolant/loose debris into my container.
-i put a funnel on the end of the hose, and filled the system with muratic acid and let it sit for 3-4 minutes. WARNING!! Muratic acid is very corrosive if inhaled or it makes contact with skin. I used rubber gloves and saftey glasses while handling the acid.
-If there is a clog it will more than likely create a good amount of heat.
-after the 3-4 minutes, on the lowest setting i used the compressed air to slowly blow the acid into my receiving container.
-once the acid was all out, i hooked up a garden hose and flushed the heater core in both directions to assure that there was nothing else in the system
-Hook the hoses back up and topped off the coolant, and i was enjoying my toasty heat in no time.

I would not recommend trying this method, unless fully prepared. If left in the heater core for too long it can actually start disolving the tubing itself.

If you're hesitant to use the muratic acid, ive heard good results from people doing the same process using the household cleaner CLR (calcium lime rust.)

Muratic Acid -7$
Thermostat/gasket -15$

Total: 21$ to get my heat working like a champ again.
A big thanks to weedahoe for the links he provided, those were great. Dirtydog for walking through it with me.

I hope all this can be some help to somebody.

 

Just to let people know, this is the first time I have posted on a forum of any kind.

So let me tell you what I have....

Last year the heat on my dodge went out completely so I did what most people suggested and replaced the heater core. (What a pain)

And after I did that the heat worked GREAT for the rest of the cold season. But when I got int the truck for the first time this year it was getting cold i turned the heat on and of course the heat was working great on the passenger side and was blowing cold air out of the driver's side. So correct me if I am wrong but that would mean that it is a blend door issue right. I would really hope it has nothing to do with the heater core that was replaced less than a year ago. Please let me know what you think and if I put this in the wrong spot on the forum I am sorry.

 

Glad you figured that out. Esp the thermostat its weird that it was that low on a 195 thermostat my 180 is with everybodys elses on here about 11 o clock must have been a mismakerd part