Whats wrong?
Lol... from the looks of most of your posts it doesn't take much I guess. Do most of us a favor and try reading the thread and comprehend it before chiming in with your mindless banter. This isn't a chat room.
Thanks again.
Just a heads up for the chemical cleaning of the engine cooling system. There are 2 types of cleaning agents that are recommended for these (aluminum) engines. One is a degreaser, dewaxer, known as sodium metasylicate, the other is acid based, acetic acid and phosphoric acid, or a blend of the 2
They are generally what you'll find somewhere in the ingredients. If you follow the instructions no damage will come to the various coils, and they are best when used in two separate flushes, but done as one big process
Then fully flush a couple of times with fresh water, and refill with your favorite orange antifreeze and distilled or higher quality water-----RO is best if you can get it, but no DI
They are generally what you'll find somewhere in the ingredients. If you follow the instructions no damage will come to the various coils, and they are best when used in two separate flushes, but done as one big process
Then fully flush a couple of times with fresh water, and refill with your favorite orange antifreeze and distilled or higher quality water-----RO is best if you can get it, but no DI
Drilled a couple of holes to the left of the blend doors.
can't see everything, this is not the problem. By the way, blend doors do swing to heat position with the fan on high when the actuator not mounted.
I have:
A) back flushed the heater core twice with a garden hose
B) Used Prestone engine flush
C) Disabled the recirc door and jammed it to recirc.
D) taken the dash apart so many times I could do it blind folded.
E) Found that the expansion tank is cracked along the seam on the neck. Replaced with a new OEM.
G) Checked bleed plug on top of engine at the radiator hose connection.
F) I get heat - from any chosen duct - when 'squeezing' a hose. Any hose. Temporary. My thumbs are kinda sore from the heat of the hoses.
Any suggestions?
I don't believe it's the water pump, the temp gage doesn't go past the 12:00 position, which is the normal position.
I don't believe that the stat is bad. Engine seems to heat up from cold in a reasonable amount of time. (i would have a new one installed, except pepboys gave me the wrong one)
WHAT"S WRONG?????????
can't see everything, this is not the problem. By the way, blend doors do swing to heat position with the fan on high when the actuator not mounted.
I have:
A) back flushed the heater core twice with a garden hose
B) Used Prestone engine flush
C) Disabled the recirc door and jammed it to recirc.
D) taken the dash apart so many times I could do it blind folded.
E) Found that the expansion tank is cracked along the seam on the neck. Replaced with a new OEM.
G) Checked bleed plug on top of engine at the radiator hose connection.
F) I get heat - from any chosen duct - when 'squeezing' a hose. Any hose. Temporary. My thumbs are kinda sore from the heat of the hoses.
Any suggestions?
I don't believe it's the water pump, the temp gage doesn't go past the 12:00 position, which is the normal position.
I don't believe that the stat is bad. Engine seems to heat up from cold in a reasonable amount of time. (i would have a new one installed, except pepboys gave me the wrong one)
WHAT"S WRONG?????????
Thumbs have blistered from a coupla days ago.
Dumped the coolant - again.
Pulled the water pump. Nothing wrong with the impeller, replaced the pump anyways. New stat.
Refilled. Had the bleed plug out of the block until coolant came out (and on the floor again).
Truck came up to temp in the usual time. Heater hoses were lukewarm. Discharge air was 70. Once again, by manipulating hoses, (and the book says to squeeze to push air out) I would get hot hoses temporarily, and I could get 100 degrees discharge air, temporarily.
The heater return hose goes into a tee, and continues on back to the block. The branch goes to the expansion tank. I vise gripped all 3 hoses, removed the return heater line from the tee, and released the visegrip to 'purge' the core. (and again got more coolant on the floor)
return all to normal, and got a consistent discharge air temp of 115. (way better, still not high enough).
Short of cutting in a tee and a valve to force purge the core, any one have any suggestions.
I'm not trolling.
I'm beat from work. I'm beat from working on this buggy. I just want to give my son some heat. What am I missing?
Does any one have ANY suggestions?
Dumped the coolant - again.
Pulled the water pump. Nothing wrong with the impeller, replaced the pump anyways. New stat.
Refilled. Had the bleed plug out of the block until coolant came out (and on the floor again).
Truck came up to temp in the usual time. Heater hoses were lukewarm. Discharge air was 70. Once again, by manipulating hoses, (and the book says to squeeze to push air out) I would get hot hoses temporarily, and I could get 100 degrees discharge air, temporarily.
The heater return hose goes into a tee, and continues on back to the block. The branch goes to the expansion tank. I vise gripped all 3 hoses, removed the return heater line from the tee, and released the visegrip to 'purge' the core. (and again got more coolant on the floor)
return all to normal, and got a consistent discharge air temp of 115. (way better, still not high enough).
Short of cutting in a tee and a valve to force purge the core, any one have any suggestions.
I'm not trolling.
I'm beat from work. I'm beat from working on this buggy. I just want to give my son some heat. What am I missing?
Does any one have ANY suggestions?



