Well the chamber still has carbon so its not washed out. You are right about that. With the heads off and no tension on the valve spring, are you saying the valve is not fully closed? If you open the valve can you see if there is any build-up on the backside of the valve? What octane fuel do you run?

 

Oh there is tons of carbon.

Its my wife's truck, and she is a cheap ***, so probably whatever the cheapest gas is.

Edit - Sorry yes, with no load on the valve it is not seated fully.

 

So is the carbon build-up cause the binding and not allowing the valve to close or is it frozen or jammed into the valve guide?

Either way, time to use better fuel and FI cleaner more often. LOL

Better not let Hammer see this thread now that you admitted poor fuel usage.....LOL

 

Only the best in my Mazda RX8.

Can't fault me for a woman not listening

Cleaned the carbon up around the seat and valve and it still does not seat fully. I think I will just get a quote from a mechanic, shouldn't be too much with the head already out.

 

Why not just get an exchange head(s) and put it back together yourself.

 

LOL....better not let her see you said that. But I know how stubborn women can be. My wife is the same.

Im with HouseApe on this one, if you broke it down yourself, then just go get the heads shaved and have a valve job done and put it all back together yourself. If you need torque specs or procedures just LMK.

 

New thread and same issue here

https://dodgeforum.com/forum/3rd-gen...th-my-ram.html

 

Oh I already told her, and then told her the big dogs on the internet that love their dodges said the same thing. I dont hold any punches with her.

Well the machinist quoted $50-80, and I needed to leave for Israel the next day.

My wife is due Feb 11th, so I just needed to have something in the works before I left. We have my RX8, but with 2 car seats its going to be cramped!

 

Well hopefully I can get some help here.

So I got the head back a while ago. They replaced the valve seats and an exhaust valve on Cyl 1. Maybe a bad valve seat was causing the intake valve on Cyl 5 not to close?

So I got it in and everything hooked up, and it runs like crap. Barely holds idle, severe lack of power, lots of backfire at about 1500 and below. Pulled the plugs and all the evens look ok but the odds are super rich. Seems to me the timing is bad, so I checked and its good. At least the TDC marking to the cam gear, according to the manual.

I cleared the ECU, waiting for codes to come back and get a friends scanner. But not sure what it can tell me that will help.

Just appears the timing is really bad, but the whole bank? Could the head shop have done something wrong to cause this?

 

Go through my thread in the FAQs on how to change a cam in a HEMI and look at the part that shows the crank and timing gear and where the timing marks should be.

The cam gear has a arrow on it and it should be at 12 o'clock but the crank gears key way should be at 2 o'clock and dead on the Chrysler symbol. If it is off you will have wrong timing