All the time I read threads from guys wanting better braking power and asking about what pads are better or what rotors are better. Well this will go in a different direction but much better.

So anyone who has been following what I do knows Ive my latest mod was going to be a conversion from a vacuum booster on a gas engine to a hydroboost off a CTD engine.

Well I bought my hydroboosts some time back and had my hoses. Just for clarification there is a inlet hose, an outlet and a return. I bought my master cylinder and got to work.

Hands down, after everything is said and done........THIS swap gets better brakes that ANY pad or rotor combo out there.

Now I am at 78k and still on OEM rotors. However, I am running ceramic (C-Max) pads from Autozone.

The vacuum booster is held ion place by four nuts on the inside of the firewall above the brake pedal. Take the clip off the brake pedal also. The vacuum line gets disconnected from the booster and plugged. Disconnect the electrical connection from the master cylinder and disconnect the two brake lines from the master cylinder.

The M/S on the vacuum booster will not interchange on the hydroboost so dont ask.

So take the M/S and hydroboost and mount it to the firewall. Connect the electrical connector back to the M/S and connect the brake lines. Remember, you will need to bleed the brakes.

Ok, the hydroboost lines goes like this, from the PS pump to the inlet on the hydroboost. From the outlet on the hydroboost back into the rack where the line from the PS was originally. Then get a T fitting and T it into the return line that comes from the cooler to the PS pump reservoir.

NOTE: my hydroboost lines were not long enough. I hunted all over town for 3 days going to different companies trying to find adapter fittings or someone to make hydraulic lines for me. I went to Autozone, Orilleys, NAPA, Car Quest, Lowes, Home Depot and several other shops that specialize in making custom hydraulic hoses. NO ONE had or could do what I needed except ONE shop that wanted $180 to make custom hoses. ::***** THAT::

The main issue was no one had flange type fittings and metal lines.

So I ended up taking my hydroboost lines and cutting the end of the metal lines and using 3/8" compression couplers to extend my lines. Doing this also allowed me to keep my power steering pressure sensor that I was going to loose when swapping the original PS hose to the hydroboost hose. Keep in mind the PS pressure sensor slightly bumps the RPM when it senses higher pressure due to making a turn. This keeps the pump from being a burden and power robber on the engine.

So I picked up a One Man Brake Bleeder from Autozone for $8 (part number 25036) that was a life saver. I also had two quarts of new brake fluid on hand.

I connected the bottle and clear hose to the right rear caliper and pumped the pedal. After about 3 bottles (not very big) I had no air bubbles and clear fluid. I did this to all the wheels and was done in 20 mins.

Remember the brake bleeding goes from right rear, left rear, right front, left front.

LET ME TELL YOU........the pedal moves about 1/2" and you have FULL brakes.

All in all, here is my part list and costs

hydroboost - $100
master cylinder - $40
2 quarts of ATF4 - $10
2 quarts of brake fluid - $5
4ft of 3/8"steel line - $5
steel tubing bender - $15
One Man Brake Bleeder - $8
1 pack of four 3/8 compression couplers - $10

Total - approx $190

How much do four new rotors and pads cost? More than that and wont give you this much braking power I promise.

Best of all, no more cursing trying to get to those spark plugs on cylinder 5 and 7. Plenty of room after this.

Pics? Thought you would never ask.

Full gallery pics
Hydroboost pics

 

Might as well chime in on this since nobody else is. Nice read, and glad things worked out in your favor. It may have taken a little while to track down the parts, but I am happy it is working for you. Gives all of us some better options down the road. Thanks again, and good luck.

 

Nice read. Very well done. Thanks.

 

So are the brakes 'too sensitive' now? Or have you gotten used to the new pedal sensitivity?

 

yea this seems like a worthwhile mod. I wonder why its not done from the factory

 

The brakes are not too sensitive but the pedal certainly does not move like it used to.....LOL

As for why not from the factory, good questions. I guess being diesel engine dont produce vacuum coupled with the fact that they are heavier and pull more weight, THEY needed something else to fit their application. My thought would be if the manufactures COULD put a vacuum boost on one they would have to save money.

But at idle I have about 14" of vacuum. Being I want to change a cam here soon (again) I am worried about how much vacuum I will have. Although guys have successfully run the KRC210 on 108 LSA, none I know of have done it in a truck with 12" of lift and heavy 24" rims and 36" A/T's. They are all usually running lighter rims and smaller tires and closer to the ground.

 

Bam!!

 

Weed strikes again. Add it to the mod list...eeer book in your case

Good write up though. Glad to see some more outside the box thinking that gives us options for other brake improvements.

nateroach

 

see i have an issue with this. i have a 2500 HD what has the hyrdro boost. its great for brakes. but it seems to eat up the power streering pumps. and when the pump actually goes the brakes arnt there well there harder then a rock. so that my only issue with them. but as for towing and stopping its a great great system

 

I definately thought i was the only one looking into doing that. Btw, Using ceramic pads with stock rotors produces alot of heat, thus could cause your rotors to warp pre-maturely. IF you decide to upgrade the rotors and do need a ceramic pad, get a drillled & slotted rotor (a good brand not a cheapo ebay one)