Ok I am making forward progress I replaced the IAC and actually got around the block it was very gingerly it started and idled much quicker then it has been but still that lack of power issue. I was thinking of the crank sensor but not sure how to check it. I was going to set the timing light up and see if the timing was advancing when I it was accelerated. Since I have this lack of code thing going on the back of my mind keeps telling me its probably the ECM . I'll look into the Crank sensor and see what the test procedures are with out a OBD2 tester.

 

I don't know the test procedure for the crank sensor right off. I never even knew there was one back there until I swapped out a blown up 318 to a 360 in my friends 97 1500.
Sure is a tight fit back there. It was tough for me to even get back there to change the cap and rotor.

 

Yes the cap and rotor are a fun job I usually swap out a wire at a time and then slip the old cap out of the way . Usually you can flip it up once you unscrew it to get to the rotor.

My newest update I shipped it off to the dealer and belive it or not he said the computer was good. he did tell me that my new fuel pump was dropping off to 20 psi on acceleration. I was skeptical that another pump was going to fix it. I told him to replace it but be aware if we had the same issue I would not be a happy camper. I talked to the tech and after hearing his explanation and they said they double checked and are 100% sure it was the pump. I had 45psi at idle the book says 49 + or - 5 psi . I did not see a number on running pressure but the tech assured me its superposed to maintain that 49 psi on acceleration. I will keep ya posted maybe buying the bargain pump was not a great idea after all.

Any thoughts on this dilemma ?

 

Finally got to the bottom of it, I gave up and had it towed to the dealer where he
informed me that my new fuel pump was bad. I said well I just replaced it with an after market unit and he assured me this was the problem. I told him what was happening and I said it would be ironic if you replaced the pump and had the same issue. He said they would double check it and I said ok if you think thats the case replace it. It wasn't the case as it turned out I brainstormed with them and they tried to blow air through the lines. I probably did it when the tank fell off the jack when I was replacing the pump the line that connects to the steel line was kinked. I was sure it was going to be a computer issue. It was a good news bad news thing but the truck runs great after the timing chain and the injector cleaning. I order my programmer now and hope the estimates of 45 horse gains are true for the super chip flash paq. I need the help when towing through the mountains of western Pa.

Thanks for the help and I hope I helped someone else with my problem and its eventual fix.

 

So all in all, just a pinched fuel line......wow

 

Dang, it's always the small stuff that will getcha', and makes it near impossible to diagnose.

 

The irony was I should have done the basics and checked the fuel output instead of giving up . I was convinced it was a computer issue the guys were pretty good at the shop after they had the same issue when they put another fuel pump in. We all ate a little crow . They charged me 3.5 hours $65 an hour and charged me $20 for the replacement line with all the other work done it screams like a new truck now. It's not a Hemi but man it laid down a patch of rubber. I can't wait to get the programmer and try out the economy tune . I hope with gas approaching $4 it makes a difference. I want it more for when I tow then for anything else.