Your buddy is an idiot. Sorry but I have Mitchell and Alldata also and nothing anywhere say anything about lifting the engine to install headers.

Like others here, I have Pacesetter LTs and I did them myself in my driveway (literally) with hand tools. I did however spray them for about a week with PB Blaster.

I didnt bother to buy Stage 8 bolts but I did buy Grade 8 bolts and washers from Lowes

If you want to replace yours (which you will) then you need to buy (17) 8mm-1.25x25mm bolts

 

hahahahaha yea instead of the engine u need to lift the body off then u will have plenty of space

 

The TTI kit comes with new stainless bolts so I should be OK there. Ill probably spray them down a bunch with pb and see if i can get a shop with a torch to take care of it. Finding the shop is the hard part here, I'm gunna try one of the better dodge dealerships next week...

 

Use hand tools in a driveway, takes a few hours but it will save you A LOT of cash.

 

sawzall yours off. its really not that hard. i did mine in the dark...

 

I had the same problem with my install... broken bolt on the manifold. took some time but its done. The 4.7 was yard to get to but with a lift was able to remove everything. Only trouble I had was the steering was rubbing on the header so I had to heat the pipe and bend it in a 1/8 inch to make clearance. My side pipes are plenty powerful and loud rumble with dual flowmaster 44's . Good luck

 

Yeah the big problem is I live in upstate ny and the studs are terrible

 

The bolts look like they were on the titanic I'm going to bring it to a local dealership this week and have them try to replace the bolts for me. Then Ill do the header install myself, hopefully with the help of a friend. Put on the AT3030 so far and she already sounds mean!

 

You should do a video so other guys can hear it. Thye may also like it and choose the same muffler

 

I always use an impact on rusty bolts. Its much less likely to snap a bolt than hand tools. Here's another thing you can try, Heat the area around the bolt with a propane torch, and touch a candle to the threads. The wax will be sucked into the opening around the threads, and the bolt can be removed easily. The heating and candle application may have to be repeated a couple times. This works on the same principle as "sweat-soldering" copper pipes, and will work where penetrating oil will not