Steering pop and grind on right turn?
#1
Steering pop and grind on right turn?
I need a little help guys. I have an 03 4x4 with 145000k that's been well taken care of but is now bleeding me. In the last 12 months I have changed alot of front suspension and brake parts. All the suspension parts are Moog and consist of all new ball joints and control arms, inner and outer tie rods, monroe reflex shocks, new calipers and hawk pads with PS rotors.
Now I have a new pop when the thing sets on the ground, if you turn the wheel side to side you get a pronounced pop. I notice it while driving,mostly on right hand turns. It will also occasionally groan or grind while accelerating in a RH turn.
Any ideas will be appreciated!
Now I have a new pop when the thing sets on the ground, if you turn the wheel side to side you get a pronounced pop. I notice it while driving,mostly on right hand turns. It will also occasionally groan or grind while accelerating in a RH turn.
Any ideas will be appreciated!
#3
#4
I searched on DF for methods of changing the CV and found a lot of guys having trouble. here is a link a found on the net thats pretty cool and shows an 04 cv change.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qikJtYeG8x4
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qikJtYeG8x4
#6
Thanks weed but i tried that. I couldn't narrow it down. When i shook the CV it sounded similar to the pop I am hearing when they turn the wheel. The grind on the turn was getting worse so I ordered the CVs which should be hear today. Cost me 125 with shipping so it won't kill me to change and see. Plan on putting them on tomorrow and i'll post if that was the fix or not.
I'm still up for any ideas though, if this doesn't work I don't know where to go next?
I'm still up for any ideas though, if this doesn't work I don't know where to go next?
#7
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#8
Well I tore into the front end today. Getting the CVs off is not as easy as the video shows, unless you have a lift to get the leverage you need to pull it away from the pumpkin enough to free it up. I ended up freeing the knuckle from the upper control arm and it came away easy from then on. After doing this I noticed the wheel bearing assembly was too sloppy and pulled it off(took about an hour of heat, hammering, and cussing to break the rust loose) while I had the CV out of the way. Got Timkens from autozone for 175.00 each, ouch.
After test drive everything sounds and feels good, if I had to pick which one of the two caused the problem I would say it was more the WB assembly than the CV, but both were shot. Now everything is replaced with parts I believe are better than stock, which I managed to get 100K with.
Hope this helps.
After test drive everything sounds and feels good, if I had to pick which one of the two caused the problem I would say it was more the WB assembly than the CV, but both were shot. Now everything is replaced with parts I believe are better than stock, which I managed to get 100K with.
Hope this helps.
#9