Cranking Torsion Bars
I know this has been discussed before, but I couldn't find an answer to this. I know that cranking the torsion bars will provide a stiffer ride. But I'm curious, does this put A LOT more wear on the suspsension, a little, or no more wear.
Go to a dealership and ask them, and go to a reputable off road shop and ask them. Don't ask your neighbor Bob or Jethro at work or some guy you met at the parts store.
I have said it many times before. A major adjustment to the torsion bars ruins the suspension geometry which upsets the angles of the CV joints, ball joints and tie rod ends. The wear increases. How much is debateable. It also depends on driving habits.
A specifically designed "lift kit" uses drop bracketry and re indexed mouting points on steering knuckles to get around these problems.
It's Geometry/simple math. Any joint that is perfectly alligned will out last a joint at a severe angle. Drive shafts are another example. That's why people end up having to build custom shafts with an additional joint after a decent lift is installed or they do things like rotate axles or transfer cases or maybe get a slip yoke eliminator to decrease the angle.
People will post here saying, "Mine works great, I don't have any problems". Give it time. Ask ask those Chevy guys with older torsion bar trucks how theirs held up over the years with cranked bars. I know a couple, it isn't good.
Flame away...i can take it.
I have said it many times before. A major adjustment to the torsion bars ruins the suspension geometry which upsets the angles of the CV joints, ball joints and tie rod ends. The wear increases. How much is debateable. It also depends on driving habits.
A specifically designed "lift kit" uses drop bracketry and re indexed mouting points on steering knuckles to get around these problems.
It's Geometry/simple math. Any joint that is perfectly alligned will out last a joint at a severe angle. Drive shafts are another example. That's why people end up having to build custom shafts with an additional joint after a decent lift is installed or they do things like rotate axles or transfer cases or maybe get a slip yoke eliminator to decrease the angle.
People will post here saying, "Mine works great, I don't have any problems". Give it time. Ask ask those Chevy guys with older torsion bar trucks how theirs held up over the years with cranked bars. I know a couple, it isn't good.
Flame away...i can take it.
ORIGINAL: ce2flaco
Go to a dealership and ask them, and go to a reputable off road shop and ask them. Don't ask your neighbor Bob or Jethro at work or some guy you met at the parts store.
I have said it many times before. A major adjustment to the torsion bars ruins the suspension geometry which upsets the angles of the CV joints, ball joints and tie rod ends. The wear increases. How much is debateable. It also depends on driving habits.
A specifically designed "lift kit" uses drop bracketry and re indexed mouting points on steering knuckles to get around these problems.
It's Geometry/simple math. Any joint that is perfectly alligned will out last a joint at a severe angle. Drive shafts are another example. That's why people end up having to build custom shafts with an additional joint after a decent lift is installed or they do things like rotate axles or transfer cases or maybe get a slip yoke eliminator to decrease the angle.
People will post here saying, "Mine works great, I don't have any problems". Give it time. Ask ask those Chevy guys with older torsion bar trucks how theirs held up over the years with cranked bars. I know a couple, it isn't good.
Flame away...i can take it.
Go to a dealership and ask them, and go to a reputable off road shop and ask them. Don't ask your neighbor Bob or Jethro at work or some guy you met at the parts store.
I have said it many times before. A major adjustment to the torsion bars ruins the suspension geometry which upsets the angles of the CV joints, ball joints and tie rod ends. The wear increases. How much is debateable. It also depends on driving habits.
A specifically designed "lift kit" uses drop bracketry and re indexed mouting points on steering knuckles to get around these problems.
It's Geometry/simple math. Any joint that is perfectly alligned will out last a joint at a severe angle. Drive shafts are another example. That's why people end up having to build custom shafts with an additional joint after a decent lift is installed or they do things like rotate axles or transfer cases or maybe get a slip yoke eliminator to decrease the angle.
People will post here saying, "Mine works great, I don't have any problems". Give it time. Ask ask those Chevy guys with older torsion bar trucks how theirs held up over the years with cranked bars. I know a couple, it isn't good.
Flame away...i can take it.
Just a little change will not hurt anything. I did a little because my truck was not level, side to side when new.
But like has been said, a large change, say over 4 turns, will cause things to wear out a little quicker.
But like has been said, a large change, say over 4 turns, will cause things to wear out a little quicker.
My friend just bought a 2005 1500 QC Hemi and we took it to my house to crank the
torsion bars up and they were cranked as far as they would go already!!! Explain that one.
Mistake at the factory?
torsion bars up and they were cranked as far as they would go already!!! Explain that one.
Mistake at the factory?



