I have a unique issue where none of my windows will go down using the switch on their door. But, they will go down using the driver side switch. None of the other switches work. I tried replacing a working switch to one that was not working and now that switch will not work!

Here's some troubleshooting I've done:

• Tried a working switch, but switch stopped working
• Window Lock is OFF
• Checked Fuses (none blown)
• Works using driver side switch
• I did NOT unplug negative battery terminal (I was in a rush)

2003 Dodge Ram 5.7 Hemi

 

could be bad window lock switch on drivers door controls

 

If I unplug it, will I be able to test this? Or will I need a new one?

 

You'll find two broken solder joints on the window lock switch. Fairly easy, 30-40 minutes. Just touch up the connections and add a bit of solder.

 

When I had a similar issue, it was a break in the connector in the rubber boot of the driver door. Heavy gauge pink wires, the wire broke right at the crimp. Soldered it up and it's been ok for some time. It was hard to locate and I suspected the switch(es), tore everything apart, swapped parts etc.. Frustrated but slept on it had another look and figured it out.

I tried everything before I found this, mine did go down, just not back up. It Poured the day mine broke

 

mine is doing the same thing...

 

Same thing here also, seen it over and over. I havnt took mine apart, what I do....though I should just get my lazy **s out their and fix it, I just wiggle the boot and it will start working again. You might do this to test the problem and see what it does but I suggest fixing it. A half working truck is a half worthless truck.

 

Mine did it too. I took the switch out the other night, messed with the back of it (gently pried the back cover away from the main housing, but did not take it completely apart), put it back in, and it works fine...for now.

 

It will. Mine did. I got tired of being picked on for the windows being intermittent so I finally took the switch apart and re-soldered the two connections on the lock-out switch.

When you decide to take the plunge, make sure you have a fine file or an emery board to clean the carbon from the contacts, as well as some electrical contact cleaner. The contacts in mine had quite a bit of carbon from the repeated arcing. I also put some dielectric grease on the harness connector before I plugged it back in.

For those unfamiliar with soldering - remember, heat the connection, not the solder. Otherwise you'll have a cold solder joint. Don't apply too much heat or you'll lift the lands off the board (an' that ain't easy to fix).

 

I would have taken it all the way apart...to the circuit board, but when I pried the tabs away from the locks, the two pieces wouldn't separate (yes, I removed the small screws from the back). I didn't want to apply too much force and damage the board or a switch. I'm an electrical engineer so soldering/repair wouldn't be a problem, but I couldn't get access to the board. What am I missing?