My Arnott bags I got 3yrs ago and No they don't make Dodge anymore? Not sure why??
Hellwig is the same thing but kinda pricey. Only thing is, I'll have to buy a Hellwig kit to replace mine if the need ever arises?
My kit is a bolt on kit that took 1hr to install. It uses a thick u-clamp type brce that wraps around the frame so there's no need to drill or weld. It makes it an easy un-install as well. Only needed an allen wrench, pair of cutters for the airline, and a drill to drill a hloe in the hitch to mount the air valve just as Hammer has shown.
I'll post pics in a few...

 

Dog, what did you coat your frame with?

 

You think those couple of 2 1/2" vertical welds are gonna cause that frame issues? What about when they weld tow hooks to the frame? or body shops weld the frame?

There are two schools of thoughts on this and I can show you just as many places where they say to NEVER drill into the frame because it weakens it.

So it's half of one and six dozen of the other, LOL...

 

is this the same?
http://airram.com/product.php?catego...&productid=931

 

Yeah, that's the exact kit I have...

Like I said, I would have gone with the one similar to what 'Dog has, but this kit is the ONLY one I found that mounts in such a way that would work unmodified with a lift. I kinda wanted the 5000# bags, but hell, I can't see a situation where I'd ever need them or even come close to the capacity of my 2000# bags. I have towed a 7700# trailer with a tractor on it, had my ATV in the bed and even two loads of river rock and have yet to need more than 40 PSI of the 100 PSI max of my bags.

With any of the bag systems that sit on the axle, spacing between the axle and frame is critical. So lift blocks under the leafs are a no go. Because the mounts of the Ride Controls sit above the leafs, lift blocks under the leafs do not effect it. Because it mounts to the side of the frame, body lift blocks between the frame and body do not effect it. If you have or ever plan on a lift in the rear, be it suspension or body, then this is the one to get.

 

Eastwood's Rubberized Undercoating(Ashpalt based) I used 3 commercial spray cans. Theones you load into you own spray gun.

I did it the day after I drove the truck home. I also bought the aerosol cans for touch-up and that is what I sprayed over the brackets.

 

That looks great. I was thinking about doing something like that but I live in Cali and we don't worry about frame rust, although twice a year a spray my under carriage with WD40 which makes it look brand new again.

 

Mine gets a fresh coating of Georgia Red Clay, about three of four times a year, LOL...

 

Clay sticks to the rubberized undercoating like crazy. I'd advise going to a different more hardened coating like Por15 if I was in the clay often.

I did that for my very first change(@1500miles) For my 2nd change(9kmi) I pulled the cover and did an inspection so I could verify my clutchpack retaining clips were intact. When you drop the cover, you can get a bit more fluid out than suction plus all the metallic fibrous pieces sit at the bottom so you can scoop out the remaining oil with.
I supose if you drove the truck, parked it and sucked the fluid out within 1/2hour, then you will probably have most particulates that would otherwise settle to the bottom over night/time.

I'll go to 25kmi before another change(in another 16kmi), but I followed the normal break-in procedure just as you would with a new gear install. After all...A new truck has new gears installed. It's funny how people are so inclined to go all the way to 30kmi for their first diff change, yet when they do gears and pay out of pocket they only go 500miles before their first change.??? Doesn't make much sense to me, but ohh well.