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Parking lights stay on

Old Nov 4, 2011 | 07:19 AM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by Caseys-dodge
Maybe you can find them on eBay?? Some guys look around in the vehicle junk yards or "pick and pull" yards... But it's hard to know the condition of the parts your getting there. Did you check RockAuto?
Thanks. Yeah I looked on ebay and found a few used ones. I really want to avoid getting a used one so I'm not going to even bother going to the junkyard. I go to the junk yard for other things, but I would like to fix this and be done with it. I also looked on Rock Auto and did not see a listing for it. I thought I remember reading on here that people where getting it for three something, so I was wondering if they found an aftermarket or if that was from a dealer.
 
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Old Nov 6, 2011 | 12:23 AM
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The price also seems to fluctuate between dealers. I think last week another thread about this, one guy was quoted $475 or so, and someone else in a different state was quoted over $600!
Sorry, I don't even know why I suggested rockauto (my mind must have wandered to something else). The fuse box is hard to come by without the dealer... But maybe try www.wholesalemopar.com
 
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Old Nov 6, 2011 | 06:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Caseys-dodge
The price also seems to fluctuate between dealers. I think last week another thread about this, one guy was quoted $475 or so, and someone else in a different state was quoted over $600!
Sorry, I don't even know why I suggested rockauto (my mind must have wandered to something else). The fuse box is hard to come by without the dealer... But maybe try www.wholesalemopar.com
Thanks for your help. I clicked on the website and used part number 68005476AA(which I found the other thread, so I think it is the right number) and they have the part listed at Msrp $474(which is what my dealer told me) but they sell it for $343.64 plus 44.67 to ship. That's a saving of around $85. I'm going to call them tomorrow to make sure that will work with my truck. I just hope that's what is really wrong with my truck, because I hate to waste $388 on my truck and not fix it. I also have been getting a check engine light on for low/high voltage at my one O2 sensor. I even changed it out with a mopar one. So hopefully the fuse box will take care of that too.
 
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Old Nov 6, 2011 | 07:38 PM
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Well I was looking on RockAuto earlier and I found a parking light relay. Its not the one though that goes in the fuse box. Would something like this go bad. And does anyone know where it goes. Here is a link to it. http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=945754
 
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Old Nov 6, 2011 | 08:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Kscha41
Well I was looking on RockAuto earlier and I found a parking light relay. Its not the one though that goes in the fuse box. Would something like this go bad. And does anyone know where it goes. Here is a link to it. http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=945754
That's weird, that exact same part # is listed as a "starter relay" as well. I wonder if that is a website error. Now I wonder what that part really is and where its used???
 
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Old Nov 7, 2011 | 06:54 AM
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Originally Posted by Caseys-dodge
That's weird, that exact same part # is listed as a "starter relay" as well. I wonder if that is a website error. Now I wonder what that part really is and where its used???
I noticed that Auto Zone has the same relay listed also. So its not just Rockauto. I wonder if thats what causing my lights to stay on? Also does anyone know where this relay is located?
 
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Old Nov 8, 2011 | 07:06 PM
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Well I was doing some more research today before I spend $343 on something that may not fix my problem. I read that the switch, cluster, PDC, or the FCM can cause this. A lot things and a lot of people point me towards the PDC but I just want to make sure it is before I buy it. I read online earlier that if I disconnect the FCM and the lights stay on still, it is most likely the PDC. How do I know that its not my cluster causing this? Its weird because my dash lights don't stay on like the parking lights do. They do work when you use the switch. I don't know, all this stuff confuses me.
 
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Old Nov 9, 2011 | 02:58 PM
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Did you take apart yours yet? Before you buy a new one make sure yours is
corroded first. Yes, you have to drill out the plastic tabs to get apart. But if its not corroded you can still put it back together and use it. . also if you get a used one its probably going to have corrosion too,,,,. I believe the new ones are ugraded to stop the problem but I’m not 100% sure..at least try and fix your before you spend the money. you may be able to get away with just cleaning it and not having to Solder the board.

You can also bypass it by hooking up a relay to trigger from your headlights and turn on the parking lights at the same time.
Just run a relay with a hot wire going to the parking lights at the bulb and run a wire from the headlights to the relay as your turn on switch.
 

Last edited by rought; Nov 9, 2011 at 03:01 PM.
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Old Nov 9, 2011 | 05:42 PM
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Originally Posted by rought
Did you take apart yours yet? Before you buy a new one make sure yours is
corroded first. Yes, you have to drill out the plastic tabs to get apart. But if its not corroded you can still put it back together and use it. . also if you get a used one its probably going to have corrosion too,,,,. I believe the new ones are ugraded to stop the problem but I’m not 100% sure..at least try and fix your before you spend the money. you may be able to get away with just cleaning it and not having to Solder the board.

You can also bypass it by hooking up a relay to trigger from your headlights and turn on the parking lights at the same time.
Just run a relay with a hot wire going to the parking lights at the bulb and run a wire from the headlights to the relay as your turn on switch.
Thanks, no I haven't taken it apart yet. Maybe I will tonight. Also thanks for your input on how to bypass the problem. I was thinking of something like that, but I think I don't want to "rig" up the problem. Thanks again for your help.
 
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Old Nov 9, 2011 | 08:00 PM
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Well I think I found the problem. I spent about an half an hour taking the thing apart. Everything looks clean except for one spot. The one spot is right by the parking light relay. It looks a little corroded and the clear coat is peeling up along with part of the green board. It looks like the circuit is broken. I will try and post pictures of the board.
 
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