Any adjustment. I usually go 50, 100, 150 on both sides and in between rotate the entire assembly. It's to ensure the bearings seat correctly. Also, make sure the bearing caps are loosened when tightening the side adjusters so the bearing doesn't "bind". You can check backlash before tightening the caps but whatever you measure will be a tick larger than it will be when you tighten the caps to spec (100 ft.lbs.). usually by .001-.002. But it does get you in the range and you don't have to keep tightening the caps until you're close. So if you're aiming for 0.008 BL, measure for 0.010 when the caps are loose while tightening the side adjusters to spec.

Also, if you can't get the side adjusters tightened to AT LEAST 75 ft./lbs., I'd get a new tool capable of at least that. I strongly recommend going at least 150 to spread the housing to prevent gear flex or whatever it's called. I'm tired.

 

Ok I understand. I’m going to go back and do that just to be safe..
It is kinda tricky tightening down to those specs while keeping the carrier positioned to a particular backlash but the correct tool is everything..

Also when I installed my pinion baring I put the pinion gear in a bucket of dry ice and the baring next to a heat light and the baring when on in about 5 seconds with a small hit on the race. Works really good.

 

I did the heat and ice trick to install my lower ball joints in my 1500.
It really does work a treat doesn't it.
Glad areinike posted up.
He has a lot if experience on these rears unfortunately.
But his posts have been the best on any forum about setting up these rears.
Al.

 

Thanks for the compliments, Al. I still don't consider myself a true expert on the matter, but any other true professional on these rears are hard to find and even so, won't share their tricks of the trade. You can dig up every manual and guide on the matter and they'll still all gloss over things that are "assumed" known for the DIYer. I'm just glad I can help with the experience I do have.

 

Yes, thanks a lot Areinke,, it is very hard finding knowledgeable rear end people (no pun intended)
Very nice of you to share your knowledge. I hope someday I can return the favor.
Thanks to the others too…truck is up and running better than new.. well the rear end is at least..

 

Fantastic. Hope you feel more confident in the job. It's a sensitive job to do for long lasting gears. I have quite a number of miles on mine by now, with a 2400 mile towing trip on them ... I think I'm good enough to qualify.

 

I have one more question, is this foam normal?
I had the oil level just below the fill hole like it tells you to do in the service bulletin.
Oil is 75W-140W full synthetic with posi additive,
Truck sat for about 30 minutes until I removed the cover to see this.

The reason I am concerned is do to the technical bulletin linked below, but I did have the oil level correct yet, I still see foam.

http://dodgeram.info/tsb/2004/03-001-04A.htm

 

This is what I've been looking for! Bookmarked!

Oh, one more thing to add, anyone know the" how to " setup Ratech solid spacer (RSS)? My old crushed sleeve measured 0.580" , do I simply replace the RSS
w/ shims = to 0.580" and I'm good to go? I read the Ratech insturctions on step #3 about torquing to 125 ft/lbs, but confused if I need to do that step since I have the existing crush sleeve measurement.

 

I'm trying to figure out what you're asking. The torque on the pinion nut itself? What you need to do it add a .010" to that measurement and torque to about 125, yes. but the most important thing to note is the pinion preload (turning force). Needs to be about 25 in/lbs rotational force with new bearings. About 10-15 with used. If you tighten to 125 and it's higher, add shim, if it's still too easy to turn, remove shim. I ended up lapping my spacer to get the right pinion preload on mine. Without shim I was 0, with smallest shim was > 25 on "used" bearings. Lapped the spacer just enough to get right about 12 - 13 in/lbs at 125 ft. lbs of pinion nut torque. It is trial and error. Expect to install and remove a few times to get it right. Do this without the seal installed. On your last attempt, add lock tite and the seal.

 

I was told don't go over 125ft/lbs on the pinion nut with the RSS.

Now, it makes sense.

Old crush sleeve =0.580"
R.Solid Spacer = 0.550",
add shims 0.040" + 0.550"=0.590",
Start w/ 0.590"
1) torq pinion nut to 125ft/lbs and do not exceed 125ft/lb,
2)Check pinion preload in inch/lbs dynamic torque.
3) +/- shims to achieve 10-15 in/lbs w/ used bearings @ 125ft/lbs


Final assembly: New pinion nut, loctite, and seal.

That's very helpful.
You give good info!! YOu need to have this as your signature.