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Transfer Case Shift Arm fell off? If so, this might help you.

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  #1  
Old 01-15-2012, 11:50 AM
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Post Transfer case shift linkage fell off? If so, this might help you.

Back in November of 2011, while I was in the process of changing my oil, I discovered the shift linkage between the lever and my transfer case on my 2005 Dodge Ram 1500 4x4 had fallen off. Upon looking into it, I found the dealership fix would be $40 for parts and I can install them myself. Since the grommets wore out once, I am sure they would do so in the future. Not wanting to do this again, I began looking for a permanent fix. In searching the internet, I came to dodgeforums.com and found many threads with the same issue. I found a fix by one of the users on this site, but it involved shaping a piece of steel to fit, so it was put on the back burner until I found someone with the tools to shape the metal or found a different fix. Today, 01/14/2012, I found a way to fix it and with parts all from Lowes. I am including the part numbers I used, as well as a diagram of how they are arranged when installed and a picture of the completed instalation. The price listed for the parts are for the total. Total time to install might be around 30 minutes tops.

Tools needed:
A 3/4" box end wrench, a 3/4" socket, a ratchet, and a short extension for the ratchet.

Parts & Lowes Item number:
(2) Hex Bolts 1/2" x 2" (( 63329) These are loose in a tray. $1.08)
(4) Flat Washers 1/2" (( 63309) These are loose in a tray. $0.80)
(2) Hillman 1/2 x 5/8 x 1 Steel Spacer - Zinc ((880419 or 137142) These are in one of the blue drawers at Lowes under specialty hardware. They come
1/bag. $3.02)
(1) HM 5/8" SAE Flat Washers (( 25602) These are in a little red bag and come 2/bag. $0.98)
(4) HM 5/8" Helical Lock Washers (( 63412) These are loose in a tray. $1.12)
(2) Hex Lock Nuts 1/2" (( 63406) These are loose in a tray. $0.98)
(1) 3/8" x 10-1/2" Turnbuckle - Zinc (( 22233) These are loose in a box on the same aisle as the door ***** in the back half of the aisle on the right
from the front of the store. $3.27)

Parts Total: $11.25 (This value doesn't reflect the price with tax because I had to make a few trips inside to swap parts out before getting it right.)

Since the turnbuckle can be adjusted, I won't tell you what length to set it at. Just adjust it as needed. I put everything together before crawling under my truck. Then it was a simple matter of unscrewing the lock nut and then pulling washers off, threading the bolt & spacer through the hole in the transfer case connection, then putting the washers back on the bolt and hand tightening the lock nut. Then I repeated the same procedure on the shift lever, but flipped the direction the bolt is facing. This must be done so that you can shift into 4 low. Running the bolts facing the same direction results in clearance issues with the transfer case housing. After both ends were connected, I got in my truck and checked to make sure the linkage was working right & it was, so I crawled abck under my truck and tightened the nuts & bolts with hand tools and that was that. While talking with one of the people working the hardware department, he advised me that the steel might pull the threads from the aluminum turnbuckle. While that might be a possibility, I don't forsee a problem with this, but I will check and see how it is holding up in a month.

I do hope this works for you. If not, it is at least a starting point.
 
Attached Thumbnails Transfer Case Shift Arm fell off? If so, this might help you.-sam_0160.jpg   Transfer Case Shift Arm fell off? If so, this might help you.-4x4-diy-linkage-fix.jpg  

Last edited by pirefyro; 01-26-2012 at 06:52 PM. Reason: Made the title more appropriate.
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Old 01-15-2012, 12:30 PM
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Makes me want to go outside and look at my linkage right now haha. Very nice thread, Thanks.
 
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Old 01-15-2012, 01:40 PM
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Good write up. I copied your original post to the DIY section.

I lost my linkage on the trail this past fall and have a thread with all the Mopar part numbers in this section.
I was lucky enough to find it. The bushings cracked and failed. Bought two new bushings from the dealer for $8 and fixed it. I now have a length of 120# test power pro for a tether so if it comes loose ever again at least I won't lose it. I plan to replace the fishing line with a small chain at some point...

https://dodgeforum.com/forum/3rd-gen...-for-help.html
 

Last edited by HammerZ71; 01-15-2012 at 01:46 PM.
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Old 02-12-2012, 11:42 PM
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I would put jam nuts on the ends of the turnbuckle as well. Awesome write up !
 
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Old 02-13-2012, 08:13 AM
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That's a good idea Devils_Advocate. Something I hadn't thought of at the time. I'm due to crawl under there and check on it anyway. Am I correct in thinking a jam nut is just a nut that is tightened up against the turnbuckle? I'm not familiar with what those are.
 
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Old 02-13-2012, 06:28 PM
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Originally Posted by pirefyro
That's a good idea Devils_Advocate. Something I hadn't thought of at the time. I'm due to crawl under there and check on it anyway. Am I correct in thinking a jam nut is just a nut that is tightened up against the turnbuckle? I'm not familiar with what those are.
yes, so your turnbuckle can't walk either way on you. just tighten a nut up on each end and it will hold that turnbuckle right where you want it!

I might go get these parts tonight Or tomorrow when it's warmer outside lol..
 

Last edited by Devils_Advocate; 02-13-2012 at 06:30 PM.
  #7  
Old 07-19-2012, 08:19 PM
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thanks guys for the great post. this saved me 80 bucks at the dealership. The parts guy knew right away about the bushing problem and said it was very common for these to rot away.
 
  #8  
Old 07-23-2012, 11:10 AM
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That is a very good fix. Do you see any issue with the washers rusting or getting cruddy to make it shift hard?
 
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Old 07-24-2012, 06:21 PM
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It shifts just fine. Not a bit of rust on it. I live in southwest louisiana and there has been alot of rain of late, but no shifting issues whatsoever.
 
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Old 07-24-2012, 08:53 PM
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Would it not have made a better installation to use Heim joints to make the linkage? that way you could tighten it down all the way and even place a rubber boot over it to keep moisture out, may cost a bit more though. It is a good fix either way.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#ball-joint-rod-ends/=ijvhrf
 

Last edited by Kalten; 07-24-2012 at 08:55 PM.


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