3rd Gen Ram Tech 2002-2008 Rams: This section is for TECHNICAL discussions only, that involve the 2002 through 2008 Rams Rams. For any non-tech discussions, please direct your attention to the "General discussion/NON-tech" sub sections.

problems with my 2004 RAM...please help!

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Jan 29, 2012 | 10:01 PM
  #1  
alius123's Avatar
alius123
Thread Starter
|
Registered User
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
From: El Paso, TX
Default problems with my 2004 RAM...please help!

So, I will try not to ramble on here and make it organized. I have a 2004 Dodge Ram 1500 Laramie with 147k miles. I got the Code P0440, which reading on here is the EVAP system, plus I have the ABS and brake lights on and I seem to have a very light oily pinkish fluid leaking from the front center of the engine. My last problem, if it is one, is that I feel a heavy vibration and rubbing like noise when I slow down below 1000rpms. Anyone know what that could be?
My first thought from reading the threads was to first tackle the brake and ABS lights since that seemed to be easiest to tackle. I decided to just clean all the sensors (rear wheel sensor, EGR valve + front wheel sensors). Well in trying to unscrew the 8mm screw for the EGR valve, it broke. You think it would be best to just replace with a new one or try to get the broken half out and finish cleaning it?
My second problem is the fluid leak. Could it possibly be tied to the evap system code? Like mentioned, the fluid seems to be a non-smell pinkish very light oil type fluid. It looks like its comming from the canister with a label showing an "HFC" number when searched was A/C freon?? When I took it to O'Rielly's to get another opinion, they thought it was comming from the weepage hole from the water pump. Anyone have any similar experience you can help me on that?
For now, I just decided to not drive the truck and let it sit till I can get the EGR valve fixed either way and if its the water pump, well...i definately don't want to drive it till thats fixed either. Whew, sorry for the lengthy talk, I feel like my truck is falling apart now after writing this haha.
 
Reply
Old Jan 30, 2012 | 02:58 AM
  #2  
zoazack911's Avatar
zoazack911
Registered User
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
Default

Are your brakes working? Power steering working alright? My rack blew out this winter and I had pink ATF-4 fluid dripping from my engine when it went.
 
Reply
Old Jan 30, 2012 | 08:18 AM
  #3  
alius123's Avatar
alius123
Thread Starter
|
Registered User
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
From: El Paso, TX
Default

Power steering is working fine. As for the brakes, they work fine, but on two occassions they have locked up feeling like the abs was kicking in, but it went away quickly and brakes were fine right after.
 
Reply
Old Feb 5, 2012 | 01:11 PM
  #4  
alius123's Avatar
alius123
Thread Starter
|
Registered User
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
From: El Paso, TX
Default

well, I ended up just replacing the EGR valve since I couldn't seem to get the screw out and decided it was easier just to replace. Cleaned the throttle body while doing it. My abs and brake sensors don't come on nearly as often now...when they do they come off pretty quickly...not sure if that is from cleaning the rear abs speed sensor. What would make that sensor go bad and would the fact that my speedometer is working mean that the abs speed sensors are fine?
 
Reply
Old Feb 5, 2012 | 03:34 PM
  #5  
dirtydog's Avatar
dirtydog
Moderate User
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 17,003
Likes: 21
From: Albany, NY
Default

If your speed sensor in your front left wheel is dirty, that can cause some ABS issue's. Although you dont have front ABS, the pcm still uses that wheel for speed to adjust accordingly. Your odometer uses multiple sensors so it may not always be effected.
If you have an Evap code pop up again, there is a rubber hose with a bend to it above and forward to the gas tank. it develops a crack and sets off the CEL with Evap codes.
You may need to replace your rear rotors if you feel pulsating. While they may not be warped, they might be grooved a bit and when the brak pads are presed against them, you can feel this mild pulsation. You can buy front and rear drilled slotted rotors with ceramic pads on Ebay for $230 shipped. There's a guy in the General section who posted up just yesterday.
 
Reply
Old Feb 5, 2012 | 09:39 PM
  #6  
alius123's Avatar
alius123
Thread Starter
|
Registered User
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
From: El Paso, TX
Default

really appreciate the info dirtydog...I will check my brakes out tom morining along with the rubber hose you mentioned and comment on how it goes.
 
Reply
Old Feb 6, 2012 | 10:40 PM
  #7  
alius123's Avatar
alius123
Thread Starter
|
Registered User
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
From: El Paso, TX
Default

so, looking at my brakes, the rotors are good. As for the pads, the rears are fine, but the fronts have cracks forming, so I will replace the two fronts. I replaced the rear abs sensor, Ill give it a couple days to see if the warning lights keep up.
 
Reply
Old Feb 7, 2012 | 07:56 AM
  #8  
zoazack911's Avatar
zoazack911
Registered User
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
Default

Also remember whenever you replace your EGR or sensors remember to disconnect the battery for an hour or so and then reconnect it to allow the computer to reset. When I replaced my EGR the emissions light stayed on until I disconnected the battery for an hour. It did not reset itself in the ten minutes i had the battery disconnected to replace the EGR, it needed a longer time to reset itself. Just FYI.
 
Reply
Old Feb 11, 2012 | 09:16 PM
  #9  
alius123's Avatar
alius123
Thread Starter
|
Registered User
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
From: El Paso, TX
Default

thanks for letting me know that...mine hasn't come off yet, so I will try that tonight. I thought it was weird that my radio stations were still in the program when I had unconnected the battery. Embarrassed to admit this one, but when I first bought the truck I was trying to start it with the valet key and thought the camshaft sensor needed replacing so i bought one but never put it in since i found out I didn't need it haha...thinking on it, Ive decided to replace it since I already have it now and might as well...is that sensor the one just below the EGR valve? Most info i found on its location is that its near the timing chain on the passenger side. I think Ive spent most money on this truck with sensors I haven't actually had to replace haha.
 
Reply
Old Feb 12, 2012 | 01:09 PM
  #10  
Wanderer's Avatar
Wanderer
Veteran
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 387
Likes: 0
From: Northern New Jersey
Default

Causes

Possible causes of OBD code P0440
A code P0440 could mean one or more of the following has happened: The gas cap is not installed or working properly The purge solenoid has failed The canister is plugged and not working properly

Possible Solutions

With a P0440 OBD-II trouble code, diagnosis can be tricky at times. Here are some things to try: Remove and reinstall the gas cap, clear the code, and drive for a day and see if the codes come back. Inspect the EVAP system for cuts/holes in tubes/hoses Inspect for damaged or disconnected hoses around the Evap purge solenoid Check and/or replace the sensor Check and/or replace the purge valve Have a professional use a smoke machine to detect leaks

Good Luck
 
Reply



All times are GMT -4. The time now is 10:53 AM.