Wish i never got rid of my CF CAI but could not pass up the BFI brought cheap and then have it point pass the radiator so i can get some cool air.

 

thats just not fair...

 

Out of curiosity, 'Weed, do you have any data as to why the metal ones aren't as good? I know the old "metal tubes absorb more heat" thing has been out for years, but I honestly can't see it.

As you know, I've made a good two dozen of them now out of PVC for guys, but I'm still running my 7 year old K&N store-bought one myself - at least until I get a chance to re-route it up into my scoop and get my 2nd battery out from under my toolbox.

I've measured intake temps at the IAT sensor on my truck and a couple that I've made CAIs for right along side of each other and I have yet to see any appreciable difference. I think the largetst variance I've found was 4* and this was measuring an unpainted - white one vs. mine.

When I made Pyro's and painted it red, it was actually almost the same temp as mine and Cowboy Johnny's (plasti-dipped black) was a couple of degrees warmer than mine. In both cases, their trucks were sitting close enough to mine to be able to run a standard length jumper cable.

Based on my own data, I've seen no need to change mine - at least until I go to re-route it.

I'm just curious if you have actually measured temps or you are just jumping on the "general consensus" that metal tubed CAIs are hotter than plastic ones?

 

I can understand the whole "hot pipe absorbs more heat" but have a hard time believing that its more than a couple degrees or even a noticeable difference. I plan on going with an aluminum Ebay style one (not the Chrome Intakes style) and wrapping it with some leftover heat wrap just cause its lying around.

Does anybody know what the heat absorbancy is like with silicone? You could build an entire intake out of 3" silicon from www.siliconintakes.com.

 

well i have seen 6.1 guys at the track putting bags of ice on there metal intakes and shaving a bit of time of there first runs, but after they run one nothing really helps with the heat soak in the metal intakes, in addition to metal holding heat more than plastic, as far as cruising speeds, plastic ones due to faster heat dissipation will keep the intake air temp lower, now i dont know of any way to accurately measure the difference myself, but anyone who might know how other than a dyno, due to no actual cruising air flow

 

i have seen people using those outside air temp gauges as a intake temp gauge. their usally sold in a automotive accessory section at your parts store.

just insert the temp probe in your CAI to see whats going inside the motor.

couple quick searches:

http://www.ebay.com/sch/sureelectron...d=p3911.c0.m19

http://www.amazon.com/Lighted-In-out...=5336118842-20

 

Before i attempt it, has anybody ever simply removed the Hemi Hat and replaced it with PVC pipe but kept the stock airbox? I don't want a Cone filter as the stock air box is much more effective at keeping hot air out of the induction system and i don't want to use K&N style filters. I prefer Paper filters. Cheaper and much better at filtering dust and dirt.

I want to ditch the Hemi Hat because i want better access to my engine and i want to remove the restrictions it causes.

 

I actually kept the hat and replaced the tube and stock air box only. I removed it all at first but it felt like I lost low end and sounded like $hit so I put just the hat back on.

 

NV290, there are a few pics of people in the Cold Air Intake thread that have done home made removals of the Hemi-Hat. Also, if you search in Google Images there are a few in there too of people that have replaced the entire pipe section and hat with 3" PVC.

 

I currently run an aftermarket tube from the throttle body to the factory airbox. The tubes were on the truck when I got it. The previous owner probably got it with the throttle body spacer that was installed. There was 1 for the open filter and this one. I removed the one with the filter to put the factory box on. I had to use the factory riffled one with the factory airbox as the diameters were different.
You mayneed to get some sort of rubber coupler to go over the input to the factory box and the PVC you install up to that point. A couple hose clamps and away you go I'd think.