New Aero D-60 installed!!. writeup and pics
Hey all.Bought an Aero 60 Gal. replacement tank.. Finally got the big beast installed and filled up.. a bit of a chore but not too horrible. Was able to do it on the ground and by myself.. you will see how I did that latter part in a bit..
So ordered the tank and it arrived on truck, covered with cardboard and strapped to a long pallet.. perfect shipping..
OK, First thing is the tank was painted, not powder coat.. good thing I planned on bedliner coating it.. scotch it down and use spray kind.. can add more later if needed.. coated the whole thing with about 2 coats.
Jack up rear of truck as high as your Jack stands will go. I had 1/4" clearance on new tank sliding under frame on cardboard..
Old tank removal.. Piece of cake. 2 nuts, 2 straps, drop driveline, disconnect hoses and wire.. all done.. I had 7 gal left in my tank and it wasn't bad to drop with a floor jack. just balanced it.
Pic of old to new tank compare...
Now first thing is to modify the truck... have to cut a body loop off the bed next to the frame.. used a cut-off tool.. then they say to cut the bolts from the old straps.. found out you don't need to cut the front one.. just the rear...
When you take the lines off the top of the pump unit, the innards of the connector stays on the unit.. very carefully take off these things and replace to the lines.. they provide extenders with Dodge lines but different ones.. so snap on the extenders to old lines then these will go on the unit top.. no modify to electrical connection...
Now to lift a 100# tank into position by myself, I used straps.. one under the front, and one under the rear.. hardest part is getting the straps under the tank with no leverage to lift.. but was able to..
This worked pretty well.. the only thing it was a little tedious as I had to lift it a ways, put a couple 2x4's under it, reset the straps and lift again.. Now the frame side of the tank has these brackets that use the stock hanger on the frame. then there are 2 U-Bolts that go on the crossmembers..
When you get close enough, hook up the fuel lines and elect. connections, tey say to make sure it is as close to the frame as possible.. also watch out for the front of the tall piece that goes just behind the cab body.. it is a little tight..
You have to cut the fuel fill hose and the vent hose a little as the new tank is higher.. Vent hose has a curve to it so it needs to come off.. almost straight line to openings...
Also now there is another vent line coming off the top of the new tank.. I tied this into the mod I did with the other vent I did on the old tank. I had a hose going up near the top of the fuel fill and through a valve that let air pass but not liquid, then down so the hose is open downward.. this worked out good.
Wow.. took a total of 7 hours between last night and this morning.. I say 3-4 hours of it was getting it lifted and adjusted just right..
Had a measured 24 gallons of Diesel in cans and just for info, I put in 5 gal.. right on the red line, empty.. added 5 more, just about 1/8 th. Added 6 more, above 1/4.. added rest to total 24 gal. just under 1/2.. . Perfect.. so drive around a bit, then spotted a good diesel price.. $3.95.. most around here is $4.09 or so.. so filled it up.. takes fast speed til last 6 gal.. last 6 filled on 1st click.. took whole 60 +. maybe a smidge more.. no leaks and truck primed and started right up..
Overall I am happy with it.. if you want to go back to stock tank, you would have to drill or press out the bolts on the cross members and use regular bolts... I am going to use 2 fuel cans I have totaling 11 gallons as reserve in the bed for a total of 71.. Not bad.. total of tank on Feb. special (10% off)was $930 shipped. pretty good value.
So ordered the tank and it arrived on truck, covered with cardboard and strapped to a long pallet.. perfect shipping..
OK, First thing is the tank was painted, not powder coat.. good thing I planned on bedliner coating it.. scotch it down and use spray kind.. can add more later if needed.. coated the whole thing with about 2 coats.
Jack up rear of truck as high as your Jack stands will go. I had 1/4" clearance on new tank sliding under frame on cardboard..
Old tank removal.. Piece of cake. 2 nuts, 2 straps, drop driveline, disconnect hoses and wire.. all done.. I had 7 gal left in my tank and it wasn't bad to drop with a floor jack. just balanced it.
Pic of old to new tank compare...
Now first thing is to modify the truck... have to cut a body loop off the bed next to the frame.. used a cut-off tool.. then they say to cut the bolts from the old straps.. found out you don't need to cut the front one.. just the rear...
When you take the lines off the top of the pump unit, the innards of the connector stays on the unit.. very carefully take off these things and replace to the lines.. they provide extenders with Dodge lines but different ones.. so snap on the extenders to old lines then these will go on the unit top.. no modify to electrical connection...
Now to lift a 100# tank into position by myself, I used straps.. one under the front, and one under the rear.. hardest part is getting the straps under the tank with no leverage to lift.. but was able to..
This worked pretty well.. the only thing it was a little tedious as I had to lift it a ways, put a couple 2x4's under it, reset the straps and lift again.. Now the frame side of the tank has these brackets that use the stock hanger on the frame. then there are 2 U-Bolts that go on the crossmembers..
When you get close enough, hook up the fuel lines and elect. connections, tey say to make sure it is as close to the frame as possible.. also watch out for the front of the tall piece that goes just behind the cab body.. it is a little tight..
You have to cut the fuel fill hose and the vent hose a little as the new tank is higher.. Vent hose has a curve to it so it needs to come off.. almost straight line to openings...
Also now there is another vent line coming off the top of the new tank.. I tied this into the mod I did with the other vent I did on the old tank. I had a hose going up near the top of the fuel fill and through a valve that let air pass but not liquid, then down so the hose is open downward.. this worked out good.
Wow.. took a total of 7 hours between last night and this morning.. I say 3-4 hours of it was getting it lifted and adjusted just right..
Had a measured 24 gallons of Diesel in cans and just for info, I put in 5 gal.. right on the red line, empty.. added 5 more, just about 1/8 th. Added 6 more, above 1/4.. added rest to total 24 gal. just under 1/2.. . Perfect.. so drive around a bit, then spotted a good diesel price.. $3.95.. most around here is $4.09 or so.. so filled it up.. takes fast speed til last 6 gal.. last 6 filled on 1st click.. took whole 60 +. maybe a smidge more.. no leaks and truck primed and started right up..
Overall I am happy with it.. if you want to go back to stock tank, you would have to drill or press out the bolts on the cross members and use regular bolts... I am going to use 2 fuel cans I have totaling 11 gallons as reserve in the bed for a total of 71.. Not bad.. total of tank on Feb. special (10% off)was $930 shipped. pretty good value.
WOW. 60Gallons! 60gal x $4=240beans ouch...lol
I guess it certainly is worth it to save $0.10 on a gal at each fill!
Nice write-up. Got any bigger pics? Send them to me and i can post them if you are having trouble.
I guess it certainly is worth it to save $0.10 on a gal at each fill!
Nice write-up. Got any bigger pics? Send them to me and i can post them if you are having trouble.
Kinda curious if something like this would work on a Hemi. I know fuel lines and all that are different between diesel and gasoline, but just a tank, and obviously prolly a sending unit needed to get that deep, seems it'd function the same, but I am just assuming...looking for actual knowledge to answer this. I am eventually going to move to Alaska and when driving up through Canada, gas stations get few and far between, so a nearly twice as big fuel tank sounds appealing
I see your point to an extent...but do you think it'd really show with this 32 ft bad boy stuffed to the brim with everything I own that is worth taking with me??
Last edited by HemiMoparGuy1981; Apr 1, 2012 at 06:11 PM.
You'd need helper springs with that much added weight and handling will suck with your suspension. Plus, if your state is anything like mine....most gas stations dont allow you to pump more than $75 or $100 depending on where you go. I know Hess bumped it up to $100 reently. It's not even to prevent run-offs because i use my CC everytime and have to use a different one for that extra little bit sometimes. Sucks.
Also, clearance nay be an issue. The 2500's sit higher as well.
Also, clearance nay be an issue. The 2500's sit higher as well.
Heres a better write up and pics on the TDR site. words are the same but more and bigger pics.
http://www.turbodieselregister.com/f...teup-pics.html
http://www.turbodieselregister.com/f...teup-pics.html
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Great write up. Sounds interesting. I, too, could use some extra capacity. 60 is quite a bit over the 26 I have now. 34 gallons x 6lbs a gallon = 200lbs extra.
Not too bad especially with an airbag kit installed
Not too bad especially with an airbag kit installed
Last edited by slakker25rs; Apr 2, 2012 at 10:11 AM.
You'd need helper springs with that much added weight and handling will suck with your suspension. Plus, if your state is anything like mine....most gas stations dont allow you to pump more than $75 or $100 depending on where you go. I know Hess bumped it up to $100 reently. It's not even to prevent run-offs because i use my CC everytime and have to use a different one for that extra little bit sometimes. Sucks.
Also, clearance nay be an issue. The 2500's sit higher as well.
Also, clearance nay be an issue. The 2500's sit higher as well.







