Need advice on a rear end issue
#1
Need advice on a rear end issue
07 1500 Ram Laramie Quad Cab w/ 5.7 Hemi 4X2 53,993 miles
Been having a whining noise upon acceleration only coming from the rear end. Took to a local Tire/Service shop vice the expensive stealership.
Shop replaced rear/bearing kit and added syn fluid. Said ring and pinon brand new, noise was still there. They had truck towed to a transmission shop whom also does rear ends. The new shop replaced bearing kit, said ring and pinon looks brand new but noise still there. That guy told me to drive it until the rear end falls out and don't worry about the noise, what a jerk.
highlights:
1. noise in rear end on acceleration only, sounds like its whining
2. 1st shop installed new bearing kit
3. 2nd shop installed new bearing kit
4. both shops said ring and pinon look brand new
5. 1st shop wrote on receipt noise still there suspect ring and pinion.
Any ideas? Anyone have this problem?
Been having a whining noise upon acceleration only coming from the rear end. Took to a local Tire/Service shop vice the expensive stealership.
Shop replaced rear/bearing kit and added syn fluid. Said ring and pinon brand new, noise was still there. They had truck towed to a transmission shop whom also does rear ends. The new shop replaced bearing kit, said ring and pinon looks brand new but noise still there. That guy told me to drive it until the rear end falls out and don't worry about the noise, what a jerk.
highlights:
1. noise in rear end on acceleration only, sounds like its whining
2. 1st shop installed new bearing kit
3. 2nd shop installed new bearing kit
4. both shops said ring and pinon look brand new
5. 1st shop wrote on receipt noise still there suspect ring and pinion.
Any ideas? Anyone have this problem?
#4
Yeah, just not shimmed perfectly IMO. My guys who did mine gave it back with it whining slightly. When I took it back and mentioned it he said he set it per manufacture spec (he worked at Dodge and did rear end work for them) but what I couldnt get him to understand was that those numbers were fine for those trucks that came with stock 392s but we were putting in 45s and manufactures specs didnt apply which meant trial and error in shimmimg to get the right setup.
#5
It's hard to point the finger who did, what wrong, when multiple shops has been in the rear end. Which shop to go it with. .. That will have to be your gut feeling. Document document document. Have the shop of your choice write down(0. 0_ _" pinion shim, pinion preload _ _ inch/pounds, and finally backlash 0.00_".). You may or may not know what these numbers mean, but they can help hold a shop accountable for their repair. I use to deal in fleet repair and everything has to be documented.
#7
Metal/Moaning Sound
I have a 1998 1500 Pickup and I had a slight grinding metal sound that got louder with the speed. A bout three years ago Paramus Dodge heard my brakes scratch pads making noise and said it was a bad pinion bearing & seal (AFTER THEY DID THE REPAIR). Two days later the rear end seized up and a local shop found that the inner and outer bearings were crushed and attributed it to over tightening and said that each bearing was like new.
This time I decided to have a friend (out of work) complete the job while I helped. One important issue we encountered that NO ONE mentioned was on each side of the housing were small yoke adjustment slots (for lack of the professional name). These holes are like the adjustment slot on the brake drum and needed to be adjusted so the yoke could be slid out. Until this was done the yoke was bound up and impossible to remove. Once it was out, replacing the inner & outer seal, races, crush collar & bearings went totally smooth and took less than a half hour. I took the opportunity to replace the axel seals while the axels were out and what a quite ride
This time I decided to have a friend (out of work) complete the job while I helped. One important issue we encountered that NO ONE mentioned was on each side of the housing were small yoke adjustment slots (for lack of the professional name). These holes are like the adjustment slot on the brake drum and needed to be adjusted so the yoke could be slid out. Until this was done the yoke was bound up and impossible to remove. Once it was out, replacing the inner & outer seal, races, crush collar & bearings went totally smooth and took less than a half hour. I took the opportunity to replace the axel seals while the axels were out and what a quite ride