I finished up the Hughes plenum repair today after 1.5 weeks down. Due to work schedule, I couldn't work every day on it. Anyway, I never did anything this extensive on an engine before, but feel confident in my ability to pull it off. I did remove the fan shroud, bottles, etc to make room inside the engine compartment. Worth the effort. One bolt broke off in the block under the plenum and I ordered a set of reverse drill bits and used them to drill out the broken bolt. It never twisted itself out using the bits. I ended up drilling/tapping for new bolt. The hardest part of this job was removing the fuel injectors and leaving both fuel rails in tact. The FI's are just pressed into the plenum, but as hard as they are to get out, you'd think they were bolted in somehow. Just stuck Orings. wiggle/pull your azz off. don't try to pry on that cheap tube fuel rail! I was standing in the engine compartment to pull them up/out. While doing this job, as I disconnected, I labeled each/every wire, tube, connector. I'm not a professional mechanic, so I need to keep track of things. I generically labeled the FI connectors 1-4; 5-8. I laid each set of bolts on papers with descriptions as to where they went. When various length bolts are in 1 bracket, I laid them in the holes they came out of. In the end, NO leftover parts and the engine runs fine again. While open, I did do other maintenance. I changed the O2 sensor {after the seafoam cleanout} before the cat, rotor, cap, wires, plugs. New Orings on the FI's. Changed the tstat to a hughes 180. It took hours of cleaning to prep for the re-install. My engine had so much crap on it, I never knew the kegger had the cylinder numbers on it and the firing order! Also the torque setting for the kegger bolts. To clean the plenum, I used my slop sink, hot water tank turned up to super hot, and I added 1/2 gallon of simple green and 1 gallon of some purple cleaner from wallyworld that said "disolves grease real easy and real fast" AND IT DID! those 2 chemicals bubbled my plenum clean in about 2 hours of soaking. I also bought @ harbor freight a kit of round brushes/mixed diameters. I used them to clean out every opening in the plenum just to make it spotless. I have a small gallon shop vac I used while cleaning off the gasket material in the valley. I filled the water jacket holes/fuel intake holes with paper towels. When all was back together, I drained the oil and removed the filter. Some water/antifreeze came out first. I thought removing the upper rad hose was enough to drain down the antifreeze and my rad drain didn't work. Once the old oil was out, I installed a new filter, new oil and 1 quart of kerosene. I once bought from Napa, 'engine cleaner' for $7. It said to add the quart to the engine before you change and let idle for 15 minutes, no revving of engine. As it warms, it will cleanout all the oil holes. After I added it, I smelled the remains of the clear liquid I dumped into my engine --- kerosene, $7/quart kerosene!!! aggghhh! Anyway, after doing that to my 5.9, I removed the filter again, drained the oil/k mix, then installed another new filter, new oil, then added my 50/50 antifreeze mix back into the rad/bottle. I pulled the vac line from the master cylinder and ran a full can of seafoam through it. so much crap came out of the exhaust! nothing happened at first, but after a quarter of the can was gone, it started pouring out! I also took lots of digital pics during the dissasembly process should I needed them to put it back together. I'm glad I did. Once back, I had full power if I manually operated the throttle body, however, using my gas pedal, I couldn't get over 20 mph. I didn't disconnect the cables on the TB, just pushed it aside. One of the cables was to be guided under a small pully/cam/glide, I didn't see it came off of it. I pushed it under with my finger and the truck runs great again. NOW, I need to get the tranny worked on. I've known for some time it is heading south. Now that the engine is back to full power, the tranny can't keep up. d( I won't be doing the tranny work. As Dirty Harry once said, "a man's got to know his limitations" One thing about the tstat from Hughes. The instructions say to change the fan sensor switch if you change the tstat so both match. I called Hughes, and they said that only applies to GM products? For a Dodge, that should not be in the instructions. I don't know if that is true or not. I just installed the new 180 tstat. I will guess since the ram 5.9 doesn't have an 'electric fan' you don't need a 180 fan sensor? Just a guess.