Greetings.

I have an '08 5.7 hemi LWB 3500 with 9,000 miles that does not crank or fire. I have read most of the topics on the subject and am acquainted with the TSB referencing the WCM. However, pulling the fuse #11 and reinserting is not helping.

The truck is in a very hard to get to place on the farm, so I would love to get it moving under its own power--just to get it somewhere!

To date I have:
tested the battery
checked all connections and fuses
run a jumper to the solenoid--starter works fine
inspected wiring under the dash and in steering column for rodent damage
pulled and reinstalled fuse #11 as per http://project-jk.com/images/tsb/TSB_08-007-08-REVA.pdf
and, checked the connections under the TIPM

hate the idea of depending on the tender mercies of the local dealer to fix what I could have fixed in the old '87 this unit replaced.

Thanks in advance for your help.

 

FWIW, this truck is a very base model and looking at the key, the parts man at the dealer said it doesn't even have a WCM.

 

Pull the negative off the battery and turn the head lights on to fully drain the system.
Reconnect and turn ign key to "on" without starting, wait and let the system reboot and reload the modules etc--5 minutes is more than long enough. turn the key and see if it starts. I would also suggest looking at Weedaho's profile and download the Factory Service Manual for your truck to do further research. All the wiring diagrams are in there. Its also possible the terminals are corroded at the pcm on the firewall, plus I found the major harness connection block for mine located under the drivers side front wheel well---they come out REALLY easy

Hope this helps, some of the other guys will chime in I'm sure

Please be sure to come back and let us know what was needed to fix this

 

I will be sure to let you know what fixes it. Right now I can't decide on a stiff drink or a shotgun blast right in the old TIPM!

In the meantime I did try to get a new ignition switch, but armed with the VIN what they showed me wasn't like anything in that steering column.

Thanks for your reply.

 

Do you get a clicking and dash flicker when you try to start?
If so, that could still be your battery. You could have a few dead cells and still measure 12.6V on the battery.

Did you check for power at the starter while cranking? It could be your nuetral safety switch is no good and not allowing the power to "transfer". Maybe try starting the truck in nuetral to see if switch is stuck or something?? This is where I'd start.

 

I took the battery to a battery shop and had them test it. They gave it a clean bill of health. Good shop and I trust them.

I haven't found a really good way to check the transmission switch yet. The connections look good, but 50 year old eyes haven't been kind to me under the truck. (you either know what I mean, or someday will )

Tomorrow I'm going to try to disconnect the battery and connect the battery leads together as has been suggested by some others, then reinstall the battery and try to reboot things as mentioned above.

The mosquitoes are fierce out there, and they do like it under the truck in the heat of the day.

 

Just to be sure of the location....where is the transmission safety switch located on this model? Rear of transmission?

 

The Good Lord helps those who help themselves so I'm reading a recently downloaded copy of the service manual.

 

Replaced the ignition switch this morning.....no help, as expected.

The truck does have a SKREEM module, but is not equipped with a security system and is a very base work truck. Reference in the service manual:

"

NOTE: On vehicles equipped with the optional
Sentry Key Immobilizer System (SKIS)

(Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAUVEHICLE THEFT SECU

STANDARD"


As I read that it seems I can replace the module and not have the dealer involved with the calibration. As this unit controls starting and ignition it might be the culprit.

Any thoughts?

 

Jinx,

I went back and re-read the entire post and realized the most important thing, have you checked the odometer for DTC codes using the key trick. These trucks are loaded with more sensors than you can imagine. Just because it doesn't illuminate the MIL, doesn't mean there isn't one. From the Off position, turn the key to the "On" position 3 times, without starting, leaving it in the "ON" position on the third cycle.
The odometer will cough up any codes that have been stored. These are what you REALLY need to have a decent beginning to figuring this out

Good Luck!