I've searched the "common issues" and the Tech & FAQ sections for 3rd gen Ram trucks and still haven't found my exact issue. There is mention in the common issues of automatics that stop working with no codes due to clogged filters/poor maintenance.

I'm not entirely certain of the miles since the last fluid/filter change on this truck, but it shouldn't be more than 50k miles. The truck currently has about 153K miles on it. The tranny has never been an issue of any sort. Last week my wife was driving it and started to slow for some vehicles ahead (farming country. She said it made a sound similar to the cruise control dropping out. As she slowed dramatically and eventually started to overtake the slow traffice, the truck did nothing... she was able to make it off the highway, but the truck would not move forward or reverse in any gear.

I came to pick her up, looked under the truck to ensure nothing was wrong with the driveshaft or rear differential (an area of concern due to 3.92 limited slip issues). Nothing looked out of the ordinary. I checked and didn't see any electrical connections loose, etc. There were no abnormal lights/indicators on the dash. There is a constant "whine" which seems to come from the transmission area, but it is constant and doesn't change when the gear selector is moved through the various selections.

Reading the service manual, since there is some "noise" when the truck is running, I dropped the automatic oil pan to inspect it and replace the two filters. Again, nothing looks abnormal (I'm not familiar with autos however). I did notice a magnetic disk about quarter size in diameter, but 2-3 times a quarter's thickness. This is never clearly spelled out in the service manual, but there is mention of cleaning the "magnet" when servicing the transmission, and this seems to fit the bill.

After closing it back up and readding 5 quarts of ATF 4+, the symptoms are unchanged. I had inspected the large plug connected to the shift solenoid, but can't figure out how to "release" the red saftey lock mechanism on that connector. It's a fairly complex looking connector with a white plastic "cam" sort of mechanism, along with the red "lock" component. Any help with that would be appreciated.

I'm looking for any quidance/help troubleshooting this problem. I live at least 20-25 miles from any real certified mechanics/dealers. I've done most maintenance on all sorts of vehicles my entire life, including a complete engine teardown/rebuild, so I am fairly handy around vehicles. I have no real intention of rebuilding the automatic, but I mostly want to understand what is really wrong and what my options are. I'm a bit puzzled by no error codes or other indication that something is wrong. The only real problems I've had with the truck are a couple of bad batteries over the years, a couple of bad front wheel bearing/hub replacements, brake pads, etc. of normal wear and tear variety. I replaced the stock rotors with BAER drilled/slotted rotors, I have a Superchips 3815 tuner that I normally run in 87 octane level tuning with a few shift/speed limit tweaks, but typically the truck is not driven hard. I do occasionally tow or haul heavy loads, but nothing extraordinary and not frequently.

As I mentioned before, I have the same limited slip clutch retaining clip issue common to these trucks, but I just keep a close eye on it, use Royal Purple differential oil and try not to stress that area when possible.

Since there was no "warning" of impending failure (erratic shifting, noises, slipping, etc.) and it being a complete failure, what should I check next? Most issues I've had to date have been fairly common issues and I've always been able to search online and find tips on what to look for. This time I haven't really been able to find much. I did find a thread that talked about possibly replacing the shift solenoid, but I don't know if that describes my failure or not. One final thing I should mention is that I noticed last night after replacing the filters and refilling/etc. I noticed that when shifting into gear with all other items powered off, the engine speed would increase and was a bit erratic. After having it in gear for a bit and then shifting back to neutral, the engine would slow down, like it was loading up or something, and sometimes even die. A little throttle would keep it running and then it would remain idling. I also noted that the "whine" would continue and subside after the engine was turned off. Like a wheel/gear spinning internal to the tranny that would coast to a stop, after the engine was killed.

Is that magnetic disc in the pan normal, or part of a valve/solenoid that came apart? Can the shift solenoid fail in this manner and cause my problems? There seems to be some question about what solenoid is what when I looked at parts stores for replacements. Everything I read about this truck suggests it should be the 545 RFE transmission, but the label on the side of the tranny says P52119452AB, Then it has RFE standing alone and 452 standing alone. So, is this a 45 RFE, a 545 RFE or something else? I would have expected to see either of those numbers on it.

Any ideas?

Thanks,

Aaron

2004 Ram 1500 QC, 2 wheel drive

 

Wow i would guess automatically a REBUILD on the TRANNY!!!

The magnetic things is supposed to catch loose metal shavings.

 

Yeah the round thing is a magnet and don't worry about it unless its covered on metal filings etc.
You've fine what I would do with fresh transmission fluids and filters etc.
Did the fluid look a nice cherry red and importantly, it didn't smell of burning??
As for your problem I cant help.
Except to say +1 on no codes and it could be anything from a solenoid pack to the main pump in the tranny.
Either way, a visit to a trans shop is a necessity.
Good luck and post up what you eventually find.
Al.

 

Yes, the fluid looked very normal and smelled like ATF fluid, no burnt smell at all. I also forgot to mention, but the drive select cable was functioning and moving with the shift lever on the column. I don't really understand what that is for, if the transmission is fully electronic... but regardless, that is not an issue.

I feel like before taking it to a shop and undoubtfully hearing I need a whole new transmission, regardless of what's really wrong, I should understand what options I might have. I've seen "performance" transmissions like the HEMI 45RFE that has some beefed up parts, a line pressure booster, etc. that I could just swap out for probably less than a dealer/tranny shop would charge me to "rebuild" or replace with a refurbished item. I also wonder if there is a newer model that is physically and functionally a replacement, like one of the 68 RFE models.

I debated with my wife months ago as to whether we should have been looking for a new truck. After seeing the larger cab being available with the same 6'4" bed I have now in my quad cab, I was leaning on waiting until next spring when the 8 speed would be available with the HEMI... Now having to drop at least a couple $K into this repair... I'll probably have to drive it longer to get my return on this unwanted investment.

I have started having random evaporative emission CEL codes, and the other night when trying to refill the ATF, the #%^*& hood started dropping down on me, trying to chop off my hand or something... Those hood struts have never failed to easily hold the hood open... until now... When it rains... it pours... It seems like it is just starting to unravel right in front of my face. Up until now... it's been a terrific truck and I planned to make my next truck a Dodge... whenever that happens...

 

I know exactly how you feel bro this morning.
I've just droped off the wife at work and my water pumps just started to spew coolant everywhere.
Grrrr.
Still I think thats an easier fix than your auto box bud.
There is a company in the states that does a fully rebuilt and upgraded 545RFE transmission.
See this link. It might help you ??

http://www.atsdiesel.com/ats2/years.asp?m=2&x=Dodge

 

I have to raise my hood and lower it till it gets enough pressure to hold lol!

You can build it with beefier parts but a tranny overhaul will start out around 1200 before performance parts.

And for your CEL look at the gas tank there is a black box next to it with black hoses running out of it check those hoses to see if they are damaged, i got the same code and mine didnt even have the clamps to hold the hose down on them.

 

Abarmby, Thanks for that link! It looks like a pretty good option. But I need to know whether or not I need a new torque converter or not?

Does anyone have a feel for how easy it is to just drop out the old tranny/torque converter and replace them? This is one of the very few automatic transmission vehicles I've ever owned, so again I am pretty inexperienced with working on them. I found it very annoying that they have no drain plug and indeed despite following directions in the service manual, I managed to get old ATF fluid all over my barn concrete floor where I'm working on the truck, since I couldn't drive it into the garage. The barn has a drive through aisle, so I could tow it there!

I guess I always thought the torque converter was part of the transmission... so I'm a bit confused by the choice of transmission only at $2100 vs. transmission and torque converter for $3364? Is there an easy way to determine if I need the torque converter or not?

I guessing from the overall lack of specific responses that either not too many guys work on their automatics, or everyone is stumped about having a transmission that won't move the truck one inch forward or in reverse with NO codes? Would one normally expect to see codes when such a malfunction has occured? The FAQ of common problems suggests that failure without codes is common for automatics that have not had proper preventative maintenance done on them. If that is the case, isn't there a common failure associated with this sort of scenario? Would further dropping the valve block reveal more information/visibility into the root problem?

I really want to know what my fundamental issue is. I've shopped around online and there is no shortage of used automatics out of salvage yards in the area, but most have 110+K miles on them and probably don't include the torque converter. If mine failed at 153K miles and I have maintained it, I don't get a very fuzzy feel for replacing it with a used part I have no idea of the history of it.

What I'm saying is that I feel it is probably a better investment to spend $2-3K on a quality transmission/torque converter with a solid warranty than to roll the dice with used components out of a salvage yard. From most reports I've seen online from people who paid literally thousands to have their automatics "rebuilt" by local or national shops, their longevity and success rates seems pretty suspect at best.

On the other hand, if buying a complete transmission or transmission/torque converter package is still highly prone to failure due to having someone install it who doesn't have a lot of automatic tranny history (me)... I don't want to waste my money. I typically own/drive my vehicles a long time. This is the newest and lowest mileage vehicle I own! LOL... At the same time though, I maintain them well and I wouldn't hesitate a moment to take either of the others on an extended vacation to anywhere in the country!

 

It would be easier to replace/rebuild the whole thing at once. cheaper too.

 

Did you check fuses? Isn't there one for the trans solenoid?

 

Check (swap) the relay too