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How do you fix this?

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Old Nov 1, 2012 | 08:58 PM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by redram2007
well good luck and let us know how it goes.
it'll be a couple of months before I'm able to take it in and get it fixed. I'm going to have to do some pricing and locating of parts, but moreover I need to get some money back from the purchase of the truck

Originally Posted by lyndo
sorry didn't mean to come off as an A$$, I'm not trying to put down eastern Canada. It's just that I have seen a few vehicles from eastern canada and all have had BAD rust problems. The amount of salt they use on your roads just destroys vehicles. Anyways, good luck with the fix.
no offense taken, didn't mean to come off as a sensitive b&$%h, I was just having a laugh...... I'm Canadian but seriously I can't help it, I live here, not many places to buy a car from lol.

don't even get me started on the salt....it's for all the morons who aren't driving 4x4's (such as I was previously. I still got stuck even with snows on). I don't agree with the salt at all and I have seen some ridiculous **** regarding salt.
 

Last edited by GRNDPNDR; Nov 1, 2012 at 09:01 PM.
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Old Nov 1, 2012 | 10:32 PM
  #12  
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I am from the Ohio originally so the salt was and is an issue there as well but i have been stationed out here in Colorado for almost 6 years now and i love the fact that they use sand instead of salt.
 
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Old Nov 2, 2012 | 12:02 AM
  #13  
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in less sever cases, like maybe on the other side, you can cut out the bad, and clean up the inside, use some rust encapsulator, 3m rustfiter2 and other undercoating. and get sheet metal, shape it, bond it on with 3m panel bonder. btw if you think its dumb because its not being welded in your wrong, ive seen this stuff hold up to the point instead of the panel adhesive failing the metal actually tore like wet toilet paper, and not welding creates a much less chance of rust occuring from the behind because some people dont go back and undercoat the weld burn on the other side of the panel or use weld-thru primer.
 
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Old Nov 4, 2012 | 11:19 PM
  #14  
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You need to make friends with a body man who can cut that out and replace it

The bad thing though is, if that one area looks like that, there ARE other areas
 
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Old Nov 5, 2012 | 04:30 AM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by GRNDPNDR
I live in Eastern Canada.... I can't help it







This is good to know. Why would the caulking be needed (obviously to seal) and is that something that's there to begin with?

I haven't looked at it extensively yet so I don't know how it all pieces together down there but if a new panel was welded in then why the need for caulking?

If I came to you with this problem and provided the replacement panel what would this job cost roughly? (still trying to figure out what I'm looking at paying to fix this)

This is the part I'm looking at buying.
http://www.fixmyrust.com/Item/3805106R
Were ever there is a seam you have to keep water from going between and rusting out the weld and or panel/part.. you will see caulking on the floor board when you remove the carpet, that will have to be replaced. no caulking will be visable when truck is completed..unless you crawl underneath the truck and look.
Its oil base so use laquer thinner to lay the caulk out flat and even. were gloves too its a bitch to get off your hands..
Don’t paint over the metal without a primer first,, preferably and etching primer .. Rocker panels love to rock chip if proper adhesion is not accomplished. You could also put a gravel guard texture on as well to avoid chipping.

http://3mcollision
.com/3m-fast-n-firm-seam-sealer-08505.html
 

Last edited by vietti; Nov 5, 2012 at 04:46 AM.
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