'03 1500 5.7L Hemi runs like crap, won't idle, stinky exhaust
you might consider a compression check on that cylinder just for reassurance. I would guess its most likely ok, but it would really suck to replace the spring only to find out it is in fact bent. If youre going to do the repair, you should replace them all
Last edited by Gone Fishin; Nov 18, 2012 at 05:34 PM.
I'm still not sure if I'm going to have time to repair this myself, but with the extra day off this week for Thanksgiving I might have the time. I've seen a bunch of posts about ways to keep the valve from dropping into the cylinder, stuffing it with nylon rope, using air pressure, etc. Is it not possible to just bar the engine over and have the piston set at TDC to prevent the valve from falling in? I'm a bit nervous about doing the repair myself if I have to rely on air pressure or some rope to keep the valve in, but if I can bar the engine over until the piston is at the top that would make me a lot more comfortable. Can I use that method on this engine?
If you rotate the engine over to tdc for that cylinder, there is still a gap from the dome to the valve face, in which it will fall in, and you won't be able to slip the keeper in place.
Hence the nylon rope, or if you use a compressor to keep the valve up, the piston has to be at bdc, or it will get pushed there by the air pressure. A number of guys have had to do this job, its really not that hard if you have the tools and the time------and patience, and parts up front. If you have the tools to pressurize the cylinder with air, you should be able to determine if the valve is holding or bent. If its bent in the slightest---your done. If the valve is good, you could most likely change that out in no time. The fact that this is an 03, there's a better than 50/50 chance, it will happen again on a different one. The guys have been upgrading to the 6.1 springs.
Good Luck!!!!
Hence the nylon rope, or if you use a compressor to keep the valve up, the piston has to be at bdc, or it will get pushed there by the air pressure. A number of guys have had to do this job, its really not that hard if you have the tools and the time------and patience, and parts up front. If you have the tools to pressurize the cylinder with air, you should be able to determine if the valve is holding or bent. If its bent in the slightest---your done. If the valve is good, you could most likely change that out in no time. The fact that this is an 03, there's a better than 50/50 chance, it will happen again on a different one. The guys have been upgrading to the 6.1 springs.
Good Luck!!!!
Last edited by Gone Fishin; Nov 18, 2012 at 09:00 PM.
Personally I wouldn't take that kind of chance, I'd be pulling that head off and give it a little rebuild...
New Valves, Springs, Retainers, Push-Rods, etc. (don't forget nice new head gasket)
I'd even resurface (deck) the head mating surface.... Hell I might even give them a nice 5-angle valve job.
Plus taking the head off will give you a nice look at the piston to see if there is any additional damage.
If you're going to do the job, do it right the first time... time for a tear-down.
New Valves, Springs, Retainers, Push-Rods, etc. (don't forget nice new head gasket)
I'd even resurface (deck) the head mating surface.... Hell I might even give them a nice 5-angle valve job.
Plus taking the head off will give you a nice look at the piston to see if there is any additional damage.
If you're going to do the job, do it right the first time... time for a tear-down.
Izero,
Personally, I agree with you, and if it were my equipment, I would do what you have described. I don't know the whole situation. If the valve is "OK" this would preclude having to drain the water, or removal of the intake, gaskets etc, and make for a relatively inexpensive repair, versus the alternative.
Just trying to help someone out, and follow his lead-------
Personally, I agree with you, and if it were my equipment, I would do what you have described. I don't know the whole situation. If the valve is "OK" this would preclude having to drain the water, or removal of the intake, gaskets etc, and make for a relatively inexpensive repair, versus the alternative.
Just trying to help someone out, and follow his lead-------
I would replace the spring first, see if that fixes the problem. You don't have to pull the head to change the spring. Also do a compression check AFTER changing the valve spring. If the problem is still their, pull the head on that side and change the valve too.



