Something is faulty in my drivers switch panel and I can't get the rear passenger window to roll up, it rolls down fine though.

I've been looking at the wiring diagram and having trouble figuring out which wires on the connector I could jump to make the window roll up.

Does anyone know? I need to get this window rolled up asap, it's going to rain.

 

Sorry, I cant help on that one. Maybe someone else will chime in

 

uuuhhhhhhhh....thanks for the reply... lol

The biggest problem is that the service manual I have show the connector as having 12 pins, 6 on the bottom and 6 on the top, but my connector has 5 on the top and 7 on the bottom.

I'm not even sure what the problem is, I plugged my dads window switch panel in and the window worked fine, so there is a singular problem that is preventing the window from rolling up.

The only thing I can think of is that I missed a solder point when I put the blue LEDs in, because otherwise I didn't do anything that could have caused this.....either way I just want to know how to roll my window up right now.

This is the problem with being an engineer....you get into stuff no one can help you with lol.....is it possible that the Chrysler engineers would help me here?

 

I'm just writing because I have a similar issue with my front passenger side window. It will go up but not down from my drivers side switch

 

The difference most likely being that I've gone and de-soldered my entire switch panel to put blue lights in.

I'm not sure what the problem is here as it's isolated to the rear passenger window going UP. That's the only thing that seems to be affected.

 

Yea mines similar in that sense. I've tried taking my door panel off to find which fuse it might be to change it out but I'm electrically challenged

 

I believe if you just reverse the polarity to the motor, (dc voltage) the window will go up,
beyond that, you'll need to find the wires to hack into

 

I would just take off your door panel and get to the pigtail of the regulator. Only 3 screws to tak the door panel off. There are only 2 wireson the regulator. Take 12v battery power and touch the leads to the pins. If the window goes down, switch the wires.
As GoneFishing said, it's just reverse polarity for up/down function.

You can use a long length of speaker wire ran from the battery to do this granted it's not super thin. Something like 14ga is suitable.

 

If you soldered LEDs in you might not be getting all the current where you need it, as it might be getting blocked by the Diode...

If you didn't put LEDs in, then you might just have a simple switch malfunction.

The wiring diagram should show 12 pins on the drivers door switch, and you should be able to follow each set of 3 to each door and that will tell you what is going on.

A solid Black or Brown is usually the ground, and then there should be a solid colored wire other than black or brown and a wire with the same color and a stripe on it.

The solid colored wire (non-black/brown) will be your positive lead and the one with the line on it should be negative... Usually the positive lead will put the motor up and the negative will reverse it.... all you have to do is jump it to ground.

There may be orange wires which are illumination (they allow you to "dim" the lights on everything in the cab) Usually they are Solid Orange and Orange with a white (or black) stripe, in some cases the stripe will be a random color...

Take a picture of the wires on the harness showing as many of the wires as you can with and without stripes and I can try to help you some more....

 

The problem in the manual was that the connector pinout had 6 pins top and 6 pins bottom. My actual connector has 5 on the top and 7 on the bottom, therefore there was a mismatch and I couldn't tell which pin was which.

I got it solved though, it seems when I soldered it all back together after adding the LED's I missed a SINGLE PIN on the switch for the rear passenger door.

I just fixed it today....all is good.