I got one of those, it has issues in performance mode placing my spark advance at 57+ degrees at 2500 rpm and higher. I would suggest against bullydog for that particular reason. Diablo seems like the best choice for a programmer that just plugs in.

 

I wouldn't go against the TB spacer just yet. No, I didn't notice any difference installing mine, but the dyno said I gained 2 hp and 70 ft/lb of torque max. The torque gain was below 3000 rpm. No gain above 4500. Sorry I don't have anything to back that up. Minuscule power gains at select rpm range, but it looks cool. Not worth the $100 it costs...maybe $30-50 for the cool looks.

 

Has to be something to do with your truck in particular mine runs perfect. I've raced a few dodges with the diablo and the superchip and the edge. I have won everytime by a truck length or more

 

4.56's but it will be pricey.

 

If you're looking for power/torque in the lower RPM range for towing (2000-2500 rpms), it's been my experience that tuners or CAI won't do much as they generally give you marginal gains in the high RPMS only. The tuners will help you with shift points to get moving but that doesn't do much once you're on the highway cruising at 60-70mph. Now running empty and having some fun, the tuners will liven up the truck by adjusting the shifting and CAI will give you more noise. For pulling or heavy hauling, gears would be my first choice.

 

I still win in economy mode. How long have you had your bullydog? Have you updated it in the past year? If not, DONT!!! I didn't have problems until the latest update in September I believe.

hemi4109 - Yes you are right. But as in ease of installation, gears are a lot more involved and harder to do than putting on a CAI or plugging in a tuner. I would put changing the diff. gear ratio at an intermediate level in difficulty. The CAI is beginner difficulty. The tuner difficulty is "even your mom can do it" difficulty.

 

Oh gears are definately not something for every DYI but when talking about pushing the OP's 7000# truck, multiplying the available torque at the wheels is handy. Really depends on what the intent is. For screwing around town, adjusting shift points might be all that's needed. I've driven stock HD/Hemis with 4.1 rears in town and they're not bad. Keeping a lower gear longer would give you some pep for sure. They are heavy beasts and not much you can do about that.

 

Does this seem like what I would want in a tuner?

http://www.truckcustomizers.com/prod...?vm=DT#options

Do I have to leave this thing plugged in or is there some sort of ROM that this device flashes and I can them remove it?

 

I would recommend the Superchips over any of the other tuners, for the simple fact that it allows transmission tuning (a noticeable difference). I used a CAI (really just a short tube intake, as cold air requires piping to the front grille or bumper, where it can suck in water/dirt) for awhile, then went back to stock, and noticed no difference either way (mpg, HP, or TQ), but as always YMMV. Of your options, exhaust is the cheapest, particularly removing the overly restrictive "Y" after the cats. However, you will also see the least gains with exhaust alone (better gains when coupled with a tuner, but we're still talking single digits). What you are asking for is really spread across multiple mods. HP: tuner. TQ: gears.

Someone mentioned a TB spacer...please don't waste your time or money. It's been hashed over time and again. A Fuel injected engine gains absolutely nothing whatsoever from a TB spacer. Period.

They are removed after flashing. I keep mine in the glove box, and sometimes change the tune while refueling.

 

Oh, and I almost forgot the e-fan. I think I paid ~$150-160 for mine, and it helped TQ down low by getting rid of that parasitic mechanical fan attached to the crank. I don' have any numbers to throw around, but it was an instantly noticeable difference.