Help!
00 00 is nothing, it just means "done"
as for the P0700 that means there is an issue in there for sure.... Did you do a flush and fill or just drained the fluid and changed the filters?
Sometimes the "aftermarket" filters don't sit right, and/or come loose so you might need to drain the trans and check it out...
did you also do the rear diff fluid?
as for the P0700 that means there is an issue in there for sure.... Did you do a flush and fill or just drained the fluid and changed the filters?
Sometimes the "aftermarket" filters don't sit right, and/or come loose so you might need to drain the trans and check it out...
did you also do the rear diff fluid?
No i have not done the rear diff. The battery died the day after the fluid change. (left dome light on). after the new battery was installed the p0700 code was pending. No check engine light. I cleared the pending code and continued to drive it. i checked a few days and weeks later have not seen that code since. A few weeks after i originally purchased the vehicle i noticed when i put it in drive it would take a few seconds to move. seemed like a pressure issue in the trans. I changed the fluids and fliters the first time and it was fine until around 87k. Thats when i decided i better change it again better to spend the 90 bucks compared to a new trans. the pressure issue comes and goes now. honestly im baffled.
You know a good amount of people have problems some Dodge Rams (mostly 1st & 2nd gens) that have suffered a dead battery... you might simply need a computer reset from the dealer to correct the problem.
There are some threads on here about it:
https://dodgeforum.com/forum/1st-gen...wont-idle.html
https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen...ck-stalls.html
So what you might want to do is head over to a Sears/AutoZone/etc. and have them load test your battery, as you might have a bad cell on the battery... if you want to just have some peace of mind and eliminate that as a possible cause just replace the battery with a new one and call it a day.
Glad I asked the question if anything else happened recently... lets take a brief detour down the battery being a problem.
If the new battery does not fix the problem then I would suggest that you take an hour or so and just check each and ever main ground on the truck. You can find nearly all of them by following the NEGATIVE battery terminal connector to the chassis/frame.
Once we eliminate the Grounds, then we can start checking fuel pressure at each rail at idle and under some load (must do this SAFELY)
While you are under the truck also check the ground from the fuel pump, I believe this ground actually goes all the way towards the rear of the truck and is connected to the chassis, but some people have said on their trucks it is actually connected to the taillight ground or the trailer harness ground.
That is my best guess without actually experiencing this first hand.
The only other thing I can suggest is that you go pick yourself up a OBD-II scanner that has Logging capabilities and log the event happening, hopefully we can get a stall to log, then post up the results of the logging session and I can see if that gives us any more hints.
There are some threads on here about it:
https://dodgeforum.com/forum/1st-gen...wont-idle.html
https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen...ck-stalls.html
So what you might want to do is head over to a Sears/AutoZone/etc. and have them load test your battery, as you might have a bad cell on the battery... if you want to just have some peace of mind and eliminate that as a possible cause just replace the battery with a new one and call it a day.
Glad I asked the question if anything else happened recently... lets take a brief detour down the battery being a problem.
If the new battery does not fix the problem then I would suggest that you take an hour or so and just check each and ever main ground on the truck. You can find nearly all of them by following the NEGATIVE battery terminal connector to the chassis/frame.
Once we eliminate the Grounds, then we can start checking fuel pressure at each rail at idle and under some load (must do this SAFELY)
While you are under the truck also check the ground from the fuel pump, I believe this ground actually goes all the way towards the rear of the truck and is connected to the chassis, but some people have said on their trucks it is actually connected to the taillight ground or the trailer harness ground.
That is my best guess without actually experiencing this first hand.
The only other thing I can suggest is that you go pick yourself up a OBD-II scanner that has Logging capabilities and log the event happening, hopefully we can get a stall to log, then post up the results of the logging session and I can see if that gives us any more hints.
I have a scanner with record. I will hook it up and try to get it to stall. The Battery was replaced after it died. It was the original battery. I was reading the posts from gen 2 that u referenced . If i follow the procedure and remove the neg battery terminal and follow the steps will this reset my computer, or does it have to be done by the stealer? If i can get the truck to stall while recording what data should i post?
Well you can try it via the negative battery terminal, but if something got corrupted it will need a dealer reset.
But for the $90 diagnostic fee they'll charge they should be able to give the computer a once over, as well as log the problem if it occurs often enough and is repeatable.
But for the $90 diagnostic fee they'll charge they should be able to give the computer a once over, as well as log the problem if it occurs often enough and is repeatable.
Update: Dropped the tranny pan tonight found that the Flat Napa filter was split on the black plastic side closest to the trans where it was crimped at the factory . My question is: Could this be caused by a problem with my transmission or just due to a factory flaw???
that is the cause to your trans problems 100%, and if I was you I would go right back to the NAPA dealer with that filter and talk to a MANAGER. Otherwise call NAPA's 1-800 number and find out what they will cover... they should at least get you a full trans inspection to make sure no permanent damage was done, but they might argue that you aren't a certified technician and that you might have installed it incorrectly.... so it could go either way, but it's worth a shot either way.
As for "Factory flaw" it wouldn't be a dodge factory flaw, it would be a NAPA factory flaw....
As for "Factory flaw" it wouldn't be a dodge factory flaw, it would be a NAPA factory flaw....
Im gonna atleast try to call napa and see what they'll do. The Fluid that i took out looked good and the magnet at the bottom of the pan was clean. I dont think it caused any major problems. On a side note I decided to clean the TB with seafoam spray. It was pretty dirty, i also replace the IAC Valve. It was gunked up pretty bad. All seems good now. Hopefully I am trouble free for a while.. Thank you for all your help with the diagnosis.



