Not sure if this will apply to your problem but....
Back when i worked for Dodge as a technician we did a motor swap in a liberty the customer provided an older 3.7L motor. After installation we had trouble getting the engine to start we kept n getting a crank code (it has been to long to remember the actual code number) after taking it apart to inspect the exciter ring on the crank it was discovered that the ring has a different teeth pattern on them. Swapped the ring over to the "new" crank and cam ring it worked fine. hopefully this helps i know the situation isn't exactly the same but it is a place to start looking.

 

thanks for all the responses. I am hesitant to bring it to dodge stealership but that maybe where I need to go. Between the engine and the transmission there is only the flywheel (right? and the torque converter.) Where are the contacts on this. I have the old flywheel/flexplate in the garage. The only thing that i saw that had ports was the little wheel on the camshaft sensor. with all the slots in it. Is there supposed to be another one? I hope its not on the crank inside the motor.Sorry guys this is my first engine rebuilt. A) out of wanting to learn. B) i dont trust shops in florida. C) Money is tight ( even though i think at this point a crate motor would have been cheaper. But knowledge is money!

 

Thats what im afraid of. I guess this means i have to take the motor out again or do you think its possible to change while in the truck?

 

Yup.. flywheel and flex plate are the same critter flywheel when on a manual trans, flex when on an auto.. .. in there lives the torque converter, too.. it's all hidden by the Bell housing.. there are sometimes plates that can be removed to access the flexplate, and get a look at it.. the crank sensor extends in there to peek at the magnetic ring/points that are built into the flex plate.. the starter mounts up and uses the flexplates teeth to turn the engine and start it.. you may be able to clean those points up from the starter mount, by removing the starter to get to it..

As was said before, this is a lot of work without isolating it as the problem, first.. a scan tool that gives raw counts is the only way I can think of to isolate it short of pulling them apart..

because of the complexity of what I'm suggesting, I'd rule wiring out first with a multimeter and continuity check of all cops wiring from pcm to the sensor..

Then, if that checked out, and if it were me, I'd drop the starter and hold a piece of sand paper over the area just inside the teeth while somebody turns the engine from the front with a ratchet.. then wipe it off with some cheap vodka :-) .. put it back together and turn it over...

 

If I remeber correctly (it has been 5 years since I was in the field) the crank excitor ring is on the crank inside the crankcase and yes the crank and cam will have to be removed to swap them out hope this helps.

 

I am concerned about the camshaft timing. the machine shop did not take enough off the block to make a difference in what the computer is reading. They just" straighten every thing " is one way you can put it.

 

Well they went 10 over on the bearings from what the OP said, but that would not change the geometry enough to cause this kind of problem.

Now if they did not get the timing correct mechanically (they didn't line everything up to TDC) when putting the timing chain and other components on then that can definitely be the issue.

I'm going to wait to hear back from the OP, on if he was able to get someone to data log the timing parameters and see what is really going on.

 

I will update you guys in the next couple of days. Im busy at work but will get this truck to dodge at least for the data log. Afterwards I may be taking it back home to my garage and replacing whatever problem it is. I cant afford stealership pricing. Thank you so far for all of your input.

 

Does this vehicle have an adjustable throttle position sensor. If so it almost sounds like it is on backwards or not adjusted properly. foxbody moostang owners had these problems and nine times out of ten the TPS was out of whack.

 

I understand your reluctance to take the vehicle to the dealership but that is the only thing I can suggest.Hopefully they can pinpoint the issue even if you will perform the work yourself. Doesn't sound to me like labor is the problem, it is diagnosis, and if the dealerships scanner can locate the problem I would think the cost for diagnosis would be worth it.