5.7L HEMI Issues, lessons learned
5.7L HEMI Issues, lessons learned
Hey guys, just wanted to pass on my experiences with my truck, hopefully it may help you guys out someday if you have the same issue. Basically, to start off, my 5.7L HEMI liked to eat pistons.
In 2010, after I returned from a deployment, I was driving in to inprocess and the truck banged, then started to shake badly. Limped it home, then to the dealership. Dealership did an inspection, found that a piston had come apart (busted the lip off the top from the upper ring up). They wanted $5800 to fix it (search for $5800 and you'll find the thread). I towed it back to my house and did the repairs for $1000 myself, which included brand new Keith Black hypereutectic pistons, all new connecting rod/head bolts, etc. Truck ran good.
In 2012, I was moving my things from Vegas to Tucson, towing my 1970 Plymouth in fact, when I stopped for gas in Kingman. After starting back up, the truck ran rough, and threw an engine code. Limped it to Autozone, the code read #7 cylinder misfire. I pulled the two plugs, both had their contacts smashed to the electrode. Replaced the plugs, truck ran fine. Figure it was leftover pieces from the piston.
Later that year, I am driving home, #7 cylinder again. Pull the plugs, same issue. Replace all the plugs. I remove my Superchips program, hoping it might help. Actually ran worse. I then replaced the wires with Belkin replacements. Still misfiring. I park the truck.
The day before I deploy, I run a compression check. All cylinders except #3 and #7 are in the 150 PSI realm. #3 is 120 PSI, #7 is 55 PSI...not good. Boroscope the motor when I get home, nothing found. Pull the heads...#3 and #7 pistons have inch long pieces off their rims busted off down to the oil rings.
So I call my engine shop and they believe the engine was bored incorrectly at the factory. PS, I am at 105K, so warranty is long gone. Talk to a friend and he recommends "Enginesdirect.com". I can there and they give me the lowdown:
They ship directly to your home or shop, engines are remanufactured at the factory that originally built them. They are rebuilt with Mogul or Sealed Power parts however are stripped down (no valve covers, oil pan, intake manifold, etc) but come pre-run to ensure they work and they come with new seals/gaskets and oil pump. 3 year warranty/100K mile.
Cost roughly $2850. Had it shipped to my house, installed it over a week with my family. My first engine install ever, to include anyone else's in my family. Used the Haynes manual and Dodge Service Manual. Fired up good. Had a tapping so I took it to Dodge. Lifter was bad on the passenger side, so I had them replace it under the warranty and a leaky rear main seal. No big deal.
So, there you go guys. If you have an issue, hope this helps. PS, EnginesDirect then came back and picked up my old engine for a $500 deductable. Hope you all have better luck than I do!
In 2010, after I returned from a deployment, I was driving in to inprocess and the truck banged, then started to shake badly. Limped it home, then to the dealership. Dealership did an inspection, found that a piston had come apart (busted the lip off the top from the upper ring up). They wanted $5800 to fix it (search for $5800 and you'll find the thread). I towed it back to my house and did the repairs for $1000 myself, which included brand new Keith Black hypereutectic pistons, all new connecting rod/head bolts, etc. Truck ran good.
In 2012, I was moving my things from Vegas to Tucson, towing my 1970 Plymouth in fact, when I stopped for gas in Kingman. After starting back up, the truck ran rough, and threw an engine code. Limped it to Autozone, the code read #7 cylinder misfire. I pulled the two plugs, both had their contacts smashed to the electrode. Replaced the plugs, truck ran fine. Figure it was leftover pieces from the piston.
Later that year, I am driving home, #7 cylinder again. Pull the plugs, same issue. Replace all the plugs. I remove my Superchips program, hoping it might help. Actually ran worse. I then replaced the wires with Belkin replacements. Still misfiring. I park the truck.
The day before I deploy, I run a compression check. All cylinders except #3 and #7 are in the 150 PSI realm. #3 is 120 PSI, #7 is 55 PSI...not good. Boroscope the motor when I get home, nothing found. Pull the heads...#3 and #7 pistons have inch long pieces off their rims busted off down to the oil rings.
So I call my engine shop and they believe the engine was bored incorrectly at the factory. PS, I am at 105K, so warranty is long gone. Talk to a friend and he recommends "Enginesdirect.com". I can there and they give me the lowdown:
They ship directly to your home or shop, engines are remanufactured at the factory that originally built them. They are rebuilt with Mogul or Sealed Power parts however are stripped down (no valve covers, oil pan, intake manifold, etc) but come pre-run to ensure they work and they come with new seals/gaskets and oil pump. 3 year warranty/100K mile.
Cost roughly $2850. Had it shipped to my house, installed it over a week with my family. My first engine install ever, to include anyone else's in my family. Used the Haynes manual and Dodge Service Manual. Fired up good. Had a tapping so I took it to Dodge. Lifter was bad on the passenger side, so I had them replace it under the warranty and a leaky rear main seal. No big deal.
So, there you go guys. If you have an issue, hope this helps. PS, EnginesDirect then came back and picked up my old engine for a $500 deductable. Hope you all have better luck than I do!
