Serious problems, P0304/P0306, Expanded rad.
#11
Are you getting a severe tapping coming from your engine?
Could have thrown a rocker arm or two.
I had P0302/304 and the 0172 with the flashing MIL. Took it to the shop who said that two rocker arms fell off and he suggested replacing the engine for $6K. Told him to stop, towed the truck back to my house (wasn't paying for him to put the engine back together for me to tear it apart again) and popped the rockers back on.
Now I'm burning a little oil, but I think I just didn't tighten something enough. No engine lights, no codes, no tapping and the truck drives smooth and quiet.
I am not a mechanic - sites like this and youtube are your friend on this.
Could have thrown a rocker arm or two.
I had P0302/304 and the 0172 with the flashing MIL. Took it to the shop who said that two rocker arms fell off and he suggested replacing the engine for $6K. Told him to stop, towed the truck back to my house (wasn't paying for him to put the engine back together for me to tear it apart again) and popped the rockers back on.
Now I'm burning a little oil, but I think I just didn't tighten something enough. No engine lights, no codes, no tapping and the truck drives smooth and quiet.
I am not a mechanic - sites like this and youtube are your friend on this.
#12
I've been getting a tapping since I bought the truck, here's the odd part though (or maybe symptom) since this began happening the ticking/knocking/whatever has almost stopped.
BUT, I think she's dead now anyway.
Out driving today the oil gauge went dead, so I pulled over and checked it out, and there is a leak around the seal of my oil filter.
I pulled the oil filter off and the seal looks fine both on the filter and on the engine, so I cleaned it up, dumped out the filter hoping it was some sludge, and put the filter back on.
Same deal, it's leaking oil from somewhere there,and the oil filter was on good and secure, so it's not just from being loose.
BUT, I think she's dead now anyway.
Out driving today the oil gauge went dead, so I pulled over and checked it out, and there is a leak around the seal of my oil filter.
I pulled the oil filter off and the seal looks fine both on the filter and on the engine, so I cleaned it up, dumped out the filter hoping it was some sludge, and put the filter back on.
Same deal, it's leaking oil from somewhere there,and the oil filter was on good and secure, so it's not just from being loose.
#13
#15
me? 31.....and I completely lack the ability to work in customer service. It has never worked out, that's why I went for engineering so I get to work with machines not people
it's getting quite depressing though, things just keep getting worse and no one will even call me back about a job.
#16
well, I was able to get the oil pressure problem fixed. MY sending unit had come apart and was no longer sending the signal, and it was also spewing oil through it.
$118 later (thanks dad) and some screwing around with a 1 1/16" socket (again, thanks dad) and I finally got it switched out.
so one less problem, but it's still running rich and misfiring on cylinders 4 and 6, at least today it's 4 and 6.
So what makes a vehicle run rich?
$118 later (thanks dad) and some screwing around with a 1 1/16" socket (again, thanks dad) and I finally got it switched out.
so one less problem, but it's still running rich and misfiring on cylinders 4 and 6, at least today it's 4 and 6.
So what makes a vehicle run rich?
#17
#18
Well, if it were an O2 sensor, it would in theory be running rich on all cylinders. So I would be questioning the problem cylinder fuel injectors and see if they're sticking. You should be able to feel a definite CLICK with your finger on the connector when they fire.
- O2 Sensors
- Fuel System
- Bad Regulator
- Injector Cracked
- Bad MAP Sensor
- Bad IAT Sensor
- Combo of MAP & IAT
- Throttle Body Position Sensor
- Vacuum Leak (sometimes and depends on where it is)
Those are the most comon.... we can get into the more complex stuff later.
Glad you got the Oil Problem sorted.
Misfiring can also be caused by a bad Crank and/or Cam Position Sensor as well....
The radiator problem certainly is NOT helping the situation, and I would address that before it gets much worse....
#19
- O2 Sensors
- Fuel System
- Bad Regulator
- Injector Cracked
- Bad MAP Sensor
- Bad IAT Sensor
- Combo of MAP & IAT
- Throttle Body Position Sensor
- Vacuum Leak (sometimes and depends on where it is)
Those are the most comon.... we can get into the more complex stuff later.
Glad you got the Oil Problem sorted.
Misfiring can also be caused by a bad Crank and/or Cam Position Sensor as well....
The radiator problem certainly is NOT helping the situation, and I would address that before it gets much worse....
#20
- O2 Sensors
- Fuel System
- Bad Regulator
- Injector Cracked
- Bad MAP Sensor
- Bad IAT Sensor
- Combo of MAP & IAT
- Throttle Body Position Sensor
- Vacuum Leak (sometimes and depends on where it is)
Those are the most comon.... we can get into the more complex stuff later.
Glad you got the Oil Problem sorted.
Misfiring can also be caused by a bad Crank and/or Cam Position Sensor as well....
The radiator problem certainly is NOT helping the situation, and I would address that before it gets much worse....
Known costs: $413 CAD, so realistically I'm looking at roughly $600-$800 in parts and labor costs just to fix the rad and possibly have it happen again due to a head gasket or some crazy ****e.
The engine is lacking compression, this I can almost guarantee because it takes a fair bit of time to "spool down" after its been revved up.
I have read about the crank sensor possibly causing this problem, but I have no idea how to test it to be 100% sure that it is defective and I can't afford to just throw parts at it.
Well, if it were an O2 sensor, it would in theory be running rich on all cylinders. So I would be questioning the problem cylinder fuel injectors and see if they're sticking. You should be able to feel a definite CLICK with your finger on the connector when they fire.
I gotta be honest, fuel injectors seems like a hell of a job to replace due to having to pull the fuel rails out as well, and everything else in the way.