Serious problems, P0304/P0306, Expanded rad.
#21
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I really wish I could but at the cheapest; radiator - $268, complete flush by dodge (its using green coolant, so it should be done by "pros") $145 plus a new rad hose which is about to burst, and whatever else they "need" to fix.
Known costs: $413 CAD, so realistically I'm looking at roughly $600-$800 in parts and labor costs just to fix the rad and possibly have it happen again due to a head gasket or some crazy ****e.
The engine is lacking compression, this I can almost guarantee because it takes a fair bit of time to "spool down" after its been revved up.
I have read about the crank sensor possibly causing this problem, but I have no idea how to test it to be 100% sure that it is defective and I can't afford to just throw parts at it.
I am getting a P0172 code, which is bank 1 rich. but aren't #4 and #6 on opposite sides? I can't remember off the top of my head.
I haven't been able to feel ANY clicking on ANY fuel injectors..... I have tried this. Maybe I'll bust out my stethoscope and see if I can hear them running.
I gotta be honest, fuel injectors seems like a hell of a job to replace due to having to pull the fuel rails out as well, and everything else in the way.
Known costs: $413 CAD, so realistically I'm looking at roughly $600-$800 in parts and labor costs just to fix the rad and possibly have it happen again due to a head gasket or some crazy ****e.
The engine is lacking compression, this I can almost guarantee because it takes a fair bit of time to "spool down" after its been revved up.
I have read about the crank sensor possibly causing this problem, but I have no idea how to test it to be 100% sure that it is defective and I can't afford to just throw parts at it.
I am getting a P0172 code, which is bank 1 rich. but aren't #4 and #6 on opposite sides? I can't remember off the top of my head.
I haven't been able to feel ANY clicking on ANY fuel injectors..... I have tried this. Maybe I'll bust out my stethoscope and see if I can hear them running.
I gotta be honest, fuel injectors seems like a hell of a job to replace due to having to pull the fuel rails out as well, and everything else in the way.
Well, if your engine takes too long to idle back to normal, than my engine is low on compression too.
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Cylinder bank on is 1,3,5,7 and that is on the driver's side of the engine.
#22
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yes.....which is exactly why it should be flushed using the tools that dodge has, and should be done completely and fully.
the PO at some point must have flushed it, fixed the rad, or taken it to a place that did a sub-par job and didn't put the right coolant back in.
I don't know if they added green to pink, or drained it completely, but when I got the truck there was no indication that it had HOAT in it at all, or that it had been mixed. it was plain and simply, just green coolant.
#23
![Default](https://dodgeforum.com/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
yes.....which is exactly why it should be flushed using the tools that dodge has, and should be done completely and fully.
the PO at some point must have flushed it, fixed the rad, or taken it to a place that did a sub-par job and didn't put the right coolant back in.
I don't know if they added green to pink, or drained it completely, but when I got the truck there was no indication that it had HOAT in it at all, or that it had been mixed. it was plain and simply, just green coolant.
the PO at some point must have flushed it, fixed the rad, or taken it to a place that did a sub-par job and didn't put the right coolant back in.
I don't know if they added green to pink, or drained it completely, but when I got the truck there was no indication that it had HOAT in it at all, or that it had been mixed. it was plain and simply, just green coolant.
#24
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so yeah, I have mentioned that twice now.
Anyway, I am noticing that there are times when there are no misfires, for instance, at higher RPM's and this is probably because the fuel/air ratio is more correct at those higher rpms.
Also I was sitting waiting for a train today, so I shut the truck off and when the train was gone I started it back up and drove away to which the throttle responded as normal, but a short short while down the road it was back to misfiring again.
#25
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Now it is Sounding more like O2 Sensors to me.... because when you turn the truck back on your O2 sensors have to go through their warm-up phase, so your truck will run in "warm-up" (aka OPEN LOOP) until the O2 sensors heat up and begin to function normally.
It might actually be that simple...
It might actually be that simple...
#26
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Well, I've managed to secure employment
I've been working a week so far and it seems to be going well, so perhaps I will be able to resolve this at some point hopefully soon.
Cylinders #4 and #6 remain to be the only misfiring cylinders so far, despite the previous codes. I have cleared them from time to time and P0306 and P0304 are the only ones that persist, and it hasn't thrown any more codes since my last post.
I'm suspecting my TPS, but I don't know how that could cause it to run rich.
I suspect this because the AC doesn't cut out at wide open throttle, but does sometimes randomly cut out as if it were at WOT.
I'm also unable to get any power from the engine unless I hammer the pedal and its running at 3000+ RPM. sometimes when going up slight inclines (and I mean slight) it seems to not want to shift out of second.....but perhaps this is also due to the lack of power due to the dead cylinders, because when it shifts and the RPM drops there is no power, so it wants to down shift again.
I guess the important thing here is know how to diagnose the sensors to determine if one of them is in fact the problem, instead of just spending money and replacing sensors.
So how do I begin to test out the sensors that could be causing it?
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Cylinders #4 and #6 remain to be the only misfiring cylinders so far, despite the previous codes. I have cleared them from time to time and P0306 and P0304 are the only ones that persist, and it hasn't thrown any more codes since my last post.
I'm suspecting my TPS, but I don't know how that could cause it to run rich.
I suspect this because the AC doesn't cut out at wide open throttle, but does sometimes randomly cut out as if it were at WOT.
I'm also unable to get any power from the engine unless I hammer the pedal and its running at 3000+ RPM. sometimes when going up slight inclines (and I mean slight) it seems to not want to shift out of second.....but perhaps this is also due to the lack of power due to the dead cylinders, because when it shifts and the RPM drops there is no power, so it wants to down shift again.
I guess the important thing here is know how to diagnose the sensors to determine if one of them is in fact the problem, instead of just spending money and replacing sensors.
So how do I begin to test out the sensors that could be causing it?
#28
#30